Sorry distracted by ad.
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It is a tough choice, ad or tire changer, ad wins 
Sorry what were you saying?
Never mind, will it take the tire off the rim for a wheelbarrow tire?
Good informative vdo there RK, you can see how he ordered it so when it came time remove the tire from the rim he had the valve side up, facing him. And you can see, why; that valley inside the tire isnāt symmetric, but biased to the valve side of the tire. It showed he had removed the valve core when setting the bead, and didnāt have any trouble at all getting the bead to set. Thatās pretty much my experience with car tires, not much trouble when setting the bead for them. He oriented the tire horizontally for the bead set, which Iāve done successfully; but I usually get it to set faster with the tire positioned vertically. The other thing he showed was something I do also, lube the surfaces. I just use a weak solān of liquid dishwasher soap and water. I always wonder if that water stays inside the tire indefinitely, or somehow evaporates out. If so, I donāt see how it could. But I never see any water inside an old tire when I open it up either. Life is indeed a mystery.
@Barkydog 's advertisement, well, hard for tire changing to compete with that ā¦ lol ā¦ Barky, suggest you pay someone to fix your wheel barrow tire, or just buy a new one, and otherwise just let that ad buttress you spirits ā¦ 
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Just curious what is the aerosol can?
Just an FYI:
I had a problem with an old wheel barrow tire completely losing air and debeading - and then being very difficult to get it to take air (that is, seal enough so it would inflate.)
After the second incident,I bought a tube for it. It was actually less work to get the tube in, than to get it to take air - even though the I had to dismount one bead (very carefully!) even with the valve in a slightly different position.
That was 20 years ago! No problems since.
Look at the air chuck on the end of your hose. If it didnāt seal, your tank couldnāt hold air. It needs the companion valve on the other end to force it open. You need a lever style air chuck for this kind of work.
Next time, use a ratchet strap. No way you can get enough compression pulling on a rope. If you use a ratchet strap, the tire will continue to bulge outward and seal once you have enough tension on the strap.
In the end, for a wheel barrow, itās probably cheaper and less hassle to just buy a premounted tire at the box store. Thatās what I did but sprung for one preloaded with slimeā¦
I never bought one. I live out in the sticks and out of impatience and/or desperation (as Iāve done with countless things) one day developed a method that works for me.
I use a nylon rope. I place a loop of it around the circumference of the tire, centering on the tread. I tie it and insert a steel bar between the knot and tire. Then I start turning the steel bar and twisting the rope. Think of it as a tourniquet.
While turning you can watch as the tire bead begins to contact the wheel rim as the ropeās circumference becomes smaller. I have a couple of those ropes hanging in my shed that have been there for decades.
I put in just enough air to keep the tire in place until I remove the rope and then inflate it.
CSA
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That works. Just make sure to hang on to the pipe!
Not a problem. Believe it or not, but on small lawn equipment tires it doesnāt take much. I use an old steel rod and I could hold it from turning with one little finger.
CSA
I have both kinds of set-ups. I understand of course why the kind w/o the lever has to work like that. For the bead set on the wheelbarrow tire described above I was using one with an air on/off lever, but it wonāt allow any air out either unless the valve core is installed. Iām thinking there is probably a way around that by modifying the gadget on the end of the hose, but so far I havenāt discovered how to do it.
I am one step ahead of you TwinT. I purchased one of those a couple of months ago, in anticipating of needing it for this exact purpose. Problem is when I tried to apply the ratchet strap to the wheelbarrow tire I neglected to read the instructions on how to use it. I somehow got it bound up tight as a Gordian knot. I gave up on that idea and used a rope instead. It took me an hour and half of fiddling with the ratchet while watching a Jimi Hendrix special on PBS the other evening to finally get it unbound. I should mention at this point I am not now nor have I ever been mechanically gifted. But I am stubborn I think the dose of Purple Haze helped too.
A diyāer update on setting the tire bead. Iām trying to discover helpful hints for diyāer tire dismounting and mounting. Iāve accomplished this task probably a dozen times already, but still havenāt quite come to a guaranteed to work tried and true method. I report here on my latest efforts.
Prior art, Iāve done the dismounting job using a scissors jack, the tire on one end and my truckās frame on the other, to push the bead off. Or Iāve used an 8 inch C-clamp. Both work, but require a lot of effort. Removing the de-beaded tire from the rim, Iāve been laying the tire on the ground, using tire irons of various types. For mounting, the same. For bead setting, I could never get it to work consistently laying the tire horizontally on the ground, so Iāve positioned the tire vertical and use a ratchetting nylon band to compress it enough so the bead will set. On stubborn cases Iāve used a 1/4 teaspoon dab of silicone caulk spread thinly along the bead area of the rim.
Hereās whatās new. Tired of working on the ground, I recently I purchased a Harbor Freight tire mounting machine. About $40. It looks very similar to the one in @Tester 's photo above. Once I figured out how to mount the machine to the ground so it doesnāt move, this gadget makes breaking the bead and dismounting the tire much easier. And it makes setting the bead much easier too. The reason for the latter is that the tire is now horizontal, and the rim is supported, but the tire hangs down equally on all sides. No need for silicone caulk, all I do is just turn on the compressor and just fill it up. No need to remove the valve core. I discovered that wire-brushing the bead area helps the bead to set quickly too.
I do have one problem remaining. Involves mounting the tire to the rim. Itās all done with the valve stem side of the rim facing up. I can get the first side on (the underside of the tire) no problem. But havenāt yet discovered a good technique for getting the upper side of tire over the rim. The HF instructions say to use the L-shape end of the bar in conjunction with the center post to wedge the bead over the rim. I canāt get that to work very well Once the tire is on 2/3 of the way, at that point the force needed is so great the bar surfs over the top and out rather than continuing to wedge the bead on. To get the final 1/3 of the bead over the rim I have to sort of pry it over, using pry bars. This method would be good enough for a final solution, except that when I pry on one side, the other side comes loose the same amount ā¦ lol ā¦Itās quite frustrating. Eventually somehow Iām able to get it all over the rim, but my process is not very reliable yet.
Any helpful hints on how to get that last stubborn section of the bead over the rim? Or a method to prevent the other side from coming loose as I pry on the working side?
You said it . . . many professional tire mounting machines have a so-called ārobo armā which does just that
If you remove the valve core, youāre introducing the highest volume of air into the tire/rim. And usually if you quickly move the tire up and down on the rim while the air is being introduced, this will get the upper bead to seat.
But sometimes no matter how much air is being introduced, and how quickly the tire is moved up and down, the upper bead wonāt seat.
Thatās why they make this tool.
Tester
Notice how deep the āfar sideā of the ālowerā bead goes into the āVā in the rim here.
Somehow, youāve got to get the āfar sideā of the āupperā bead to go as deep into the āVā of the rim.
(Sorry if Iām being āCaptain Obviousā here; Iām trying to picture your setup.)
;-]
Iām aware that the maximally indented segment inside the rim ā the āVā as you say ā must be part of the trick to solving the puzzle. It definitely helps getting the lower bead over the upper side of the rim. But once the lower side is there, there isnāt as much room to work with for the upper side. The HF instruction point out that you have to make sure the upper bead doesnāt āsetā on the upper side of the rim during this process, so I do keep pressing down to push the upper part of the bead towards the middle of the rim. But like I say thereās not as much room to give b/c the lower bead of the tire is fighting for that space too.
How to set tire bead and inflate to proper pressure : 1. put tire and wheel in trunk or pickup bed 2. drive to tire store 3. wait in lobby and have a cup of free coffee 4. Pay counter person $10.00 To $ 15.00 5. Go back home and put tire on vehicle Done.
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People in San Jose Del Cabo, Mexico have more time than money.
Without seeing what youāre doing, George, itās hard to comment. But letās try a few things.
First, have you liberally lubed both the tire and the wheel? That may seem counter intuitive, but allowing the tire to more easily slide over the flange edge makes the whole process easier.
Second, you may need the assistance of a second person to hold the tire in position. Iāve found that even with a powered mounter, the bead has to be held down in the well to get the tire to properly buttonhook over the rim flange.
Thanks for the good ideas CapriR 
Yes, prior to mounting Iāve lubed both the bead area and the tire with soapy water and/or a thin layer of silicone rubber. The bead on the tire isnāt sticking against the rim edge at all. Like you suggest, a second person on hand would indeed solve the puzzle, but few of my friends and neighbors find my fascination with diyāer tire mounting very interesting ā¦ lol ā¦ in fact none of them do ā¦ so either I need more friends, or I need a single person solution.
I did another experiment today along these lines, used the ideas proffered above, and decided the key to the final task of diyāer tire mounting solution is a gadget that will hold one side of the upper bead from unraveling; as the work from the other side is completed. Toward this end today I clamped a piece of wood to the rim at that point with an 8 inch c-clamp. It actually worked pretty well, for a first try. It totally prevented the bead on that side from unravelling. And I was able to complete the top-side mounting straight away. The only problem was that the clamp came loose just as I completed the other side, and the wood flew off who knows where ā¦ lol ā¦ but I think Iām onto a workable solution finally; some kind of wood & clamp technique should do the trick. Thereās probably a gadget that does this trick already for sale somewhere, but Iāve never run across it. I did see one u-tube video where locking pliers were used right on the bead area of the rim, but I donāt think itās a very good idea b/c the pliers might mar the rimās bead area and create a leak.