Secondary Air Injection On A 2001 Chevy Blazer

My Check engine Light comes on with a P0410 Code. It used to come on every 6 months and I would get it cleared. mow it is coming on about every month. I can’t find much about it. Can someone help me. is this something I should get fixed right away. where is it located?

That code usually occurs when the one-way check valves deteriorate where it allows moisture from the combustion process to enter the air pump.

Here’s what the check valves look like.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3773922&cc=1371440

Tester

Usually what happens is the pump fills with water due to where it’s located and electric motors don’t like water so it fails.

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First things first . . . make sure the air pump is getting power and ground. If not, check the fuse and relay. they are in the right front corner. Realistically, you’ll have to remove the battery, and possibly the tray, to access those parts. Unless you like skinned knuckles and/or have extremely small hands. I don’t

The air pump itself is located under the radiator core support

If that’s all fine, you need this kit, which includes updated wiring and hoses. There’s instructions included

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1056571&cc=1371440

Here’s a copy of an AC Delco bulletin, relating to that water which pet peters mentioned

By the way, a few weeks ago, I fixed an S10 which needed the kit AND the relay. If you need the kit, you should consider doing the relay also.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=164165&cc=1371440

The truck I was working on was never in contact with water. My point is, even if the pump didn’t get wet, it probably failed anyways. The pump I replaced had absolutely no signs of water damage, it wasn’t even frozen.

The good news is that some of the big name brick and mortar parts stores have what you need in stock

If you are only getting the code monthly, then the pump and reed (check) valve are probably OK. The problem could be in the tube from the reed valve to the exhaust manifold. The tube may be clogged or there could be a clog in the molded passageway in the manifold. Spray out the tube and the passageways with gumout or other carb cleaner until you don’t get a spray back.

Kieth, I have the same issue as the other gentleman, but I tested my secondary air pump, fuses, diverter valve, and they are fine and when I start the truck , the pump does not come on. What causes it to turn on ? it failed inspection 2x because of this. I also replace the air solenoid valve, air valve, I even switch out and tryed another relay and still didn’t work, I can drive my truck for about 5 to 10 miles and then the code P0410 pops back on, Can it be my computer ?

I highly suggest you read MY post and click on those links

what I talked about are very common problems

I read your posts, I have no water in my hoses or hoses are not clogged… when I start the truck the air pump will not come on, and fuses ,relay and motor/pump are good. I can’t figure out why it will not kick on ?

The trucks I repaired also had no water in the hoses

Nevertheless . . . they needed the parts I mentioned

How do you know the air pump is not coming on?

The air pump only comes on when the engine is cold and only for the first two minutes after start. The computer programs extra fuel for the cold engine to get it started, then detects the rich condition so it commands the air pump to come on to burn the excess fuel, further heating up the exhaust gasses and quickly heating up the warm up cat converter.

If the O2 sensor doesn’t sense the correct air fuel ratio after the air pump comes on, you get the P0410 code. First you need to determine accurately if the pump is coming on. If it is, the air is being blocked somewhere. If not and all components are good, then there is a break in the circuit that you have not found yet.

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I test the pump to the battery and it runs, I replaced the air solenoid valve, both Air check valves, tested the diverter valve, ALL ARE GOOD, … both fuses are good, replaced relay , and why doesn’t the pump kick on for the minute it’s supposed to run ??? I don’t understand your logic, it seems like it’s an electricalissue to me…

Harry Hewko, Jr.

I tried to look up how that function works, but I don’t see a “Blazer” model listed under 2001. Would it be called something else? Edit: Ok, now I see it listed under S10/T10 truck.

First off there’s tsb 04-06-04-015A you should be aware of, which says water may infiltrate & corrode the pump or vent solenoid & freeze or corrode the pump. If so the pump must be replaced.

The way it seems to work, the PCM turns on the air pump relay by g rounding the relay’s coil (brown wire). Power to the pump then flows from the battery through a 175 amp fuse to a 30 amp air fuse, and a 10 amp sol air fuse. If you got battery voltage at the pump on the red and pink/black wires, and chassis ground on the black wires, it should turn on. If it doesn’t the pump is faulty.

i would like to know the procedure on how to delete this system my state doesn’t reQuire it and it recently almost burnt through my wire harness can anybody direct me to this information

Just because your state doesn’t have pollution testing, doesn’t mean you can remove pollution devices.

Your state has laws against it, and there are federal laws against it.

No one here is going to tell you how to do anything illegal.

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About the only way is to buy a 1968 or older Blazer.