Saturn Relay window "clip"?

So, my our drivers side window stopped working a couple of weeks ago - first it wouldn’t go down all the way, then it wouldn’t go up… Long story short, it was shot.



I brought it to the dealer, and they can fix it - for $800 for the part! They showed me how to get the window back up, so we have been living without a drivers side window and ultimately had to employ duct tape to keep the window up - and that’s starting to give up the ghost.



Upon a recommendation from a family member, I contacted a window guy, who said that we probably just needed a new regulator. $30 on the internet later, and we have the part - and it’s not the right bit. The window guy took the door apart, and discovered that everything is ok, except the “clip” that holds the window onto the rail is broken - so the rail can freely move, but the window doesn’t move with it, which causes it to get all diagonal and messed up.



The question: where do I find the clip? I don’t want to spend $800 for the part from Saturn, but I can’t seem to find anything. I have the broken parts here and can take photos if that will help. I’m thinking I might need to find a 2005 Relay at a recycler to donate the clips, but I don’t know how likely it will be to find a 2005 there…



I branched out into the “Uplander/Montana/Terraza” part searches since they’re all basically the same cars, but nothing.



Please, can anyone point me in the right direction?

You can buy a regulator, motor, or regulator and motor on the internet for less than $100. You can also search the junk yards for the parts you want.

Put The Photo Up, Please.

CSA

We got a regulator, but it’s not the part that’s broken. The motor works fine too.

Attached are the photos - the first (8268) is the part that apparently gets attached to the window. The second (8629) is on the rail that lowers/raises the window, and sort of envelops the first part along with the window itself. The third (8270) is a photo of the first piece on top of the second.

This last one (8271) is the second and first pieces from the other view - window rail piece then the window clip piece.

The part we need is #8269.

Thanks!

Hello everyone! Right now im doing my Saturn repair. I had the same problem with regards to the window clip and need some help. I saw the images below and planning to buy one for my car. Possibly, how much would it costs? Please post the price. On the other hand, if anyone else knows how to replace the brake pads for Saturn, you could also post the manual here so that everyone could see it. Thanks a lot.

I just completed this same repair tonight on my driver-side door - I came across this forum while searching for a solution, so I thought I would share.

The total cost of the repair for me was around $125. It required three parts:

  • 2 (ea) insulators (GM# 15786626)- the grey parts that clip to the window - about $5 each (I already had a small stash of them - I live in a hot climate that turns these into goo, requiring frequent replacement)
  • 1 (ea) Channel-Sash (GM# 19120094) - the rail the window rides on, and that the grey insulators attach to - $113 (when I inquired about the part, I described it as “the rail the window rides on”). This is nothing more than a metal rail with two black clips attached.

To my knowledge, you cannot get these parts anywhere except a GM dealer.

Here’s the steps I took to repair:

  • remove the door panel and insulation
  • lower the channel to the bottom third of the door
  • the scissor arms attach to the channel with two plastic blocks the ride inside the channel, and are attached to the scissor arm like a ball-and-socket joint. I did not attempt to pry them off, as it looked like I would break them - new ones were not included with the channel. The channel is crimped a bit at both ends to prevent the blocks from coming out. I removed the crimp on the left end (using a vice grip and a screw driver), which allowed me to slide the channel off the blocks.
  • slide the new channel onto the blocks that are attached to the scissor arm
  • lubricate liberally
  • attach new insulators to the bottom of the window (note - during this repair, I had the window pushed all the way up and held it in place with friction; tape might have been helpful). I would replace the insulators no matter how good a condition they appear to be in.
  • raise the scissor arms and guide the grey insulators on the window into the clips on the channel
  • reattach the door panel and insulation

Done! Took me about an hour overall, but keep in mind I am (unfortunately) proficient in removing the door panel and insulation… I also am unfortunately proficient in this same repair on a Chevy Silverado…

BTW, I would not attempt to remove the black clips from the channel if you go to a junkyard - I don’t think they will come off without breaking. Just take the whole channel.

I just completed this same repair tonight on my driver-side door - I came across this forum while searching for a solution, so I thought I would share.

The total cost of the repair for me was around $125. It required three parts:

  • 2 (ea) insulators (GM# 15786626)- the grey parts that clip to the window - about $5 each (I already had a small stash of them - I live in a hot climate that turns these into goo, requiring frequent replacement)
  • 1 (ea) Channel-Sash (GM# 19120094) - the rail the window rides on, and that the grey insulators attach to - $113 (when I inquired about the part, I described it as “the rail the window rides on”). This is nothing more than a metal rail with two black clips attached.

To my knowledge, you cannot get these parts anywhere except a GM dealer.

Here’s the steps I took to repair:

  • remove the door panel and insulation
  • lower the channel to the bottom third of the door
  • the scissor arms attach to the channel with two plastic blocks the ride inside the channel, and are attached to the scissor arm like a ball-and-socket joint. I did not attempt to pry them off, as it looked like I would break them - new ones were not included with the channel. The channel is crimped a bit at both ends to prevent the blocks from coming out. I removed the crimp on the left end (using a vice grip and a screw driver), which allowed me to slide the channel off the blocks.
  • slide the new channel onto the blocks that are attached to the scissor arm
  • lubricate liberally
  • attach new insulators to the bottom of the window (note - during this repair, I had the window pushed all the way up and held it in place with friction; tape might have been helpful). I would replace the insulators no matter how good a condition they appear to be in.
  • raise the scissor arms and guide the grey insulators on the window into the clips on the channel
  • reattach the door panel and insulation

Done! Took me about an hour overall, but keep in mind I am (unfortunately) proficient in removing the door panel and insulation… I also am unfortunately proficient in this same repair on a Chevy Silverado…

BTW, I would not attempt to remove the black clips from the channel if you go to a junkyard - I don’t think they will come off without breaking. Just take the whole channel.

Did you ever get it fixed? I had the same problem on my Alero. The GM service manager told me it would cost from $600.00 - $900.00 to fix. I took the door panel off and saw the problem - a broken PLASTIC clip. Went to rockauto.com. For less than $10., incl shipping I had the clip in two days. Removed the old one and glued on the new one. In two hours everything was back to normal. That was more than 6 months ago. Now, I wonder why the service manager told me it would cost me over $590. to $890. MORE for him to fix that window than it cost me. Hmmm, maybe the extra $590. to $890. was for 2 hours labor.

ewok - Thank you very much for the instructions. I watched the window guy open up the door panel, so that part was easy - getting the old channel uncrimped and out took the longest, but knowing what I had to do made it much easier. Sure, it took 5 months, but it’s done, and the wife is happy again. I wish I could have gotten away with just a clip, but it is what it is - and I’m all set if I ever have to do this again!

Thanks for everyone’s help,
Adam