Quite frequently, my 2002 Saturn won’t start, even moments after I have just parked it. I get back in, turn on the ignition, and nothing happens. If I wait and retry, sometimes in just 5 minutes, it will start right up. Automatic transmission.
The next time it doesn’t start, try wiggling the shifter while it’s in park while holding the ignition switch in the start position. If the engine starts when doing this, the park/neutral safety switch is either out of adjustment or defective.
If this doesn’t work, try putting the transmission in neutral and then try starting the engine. If this works, the problem is still with the park/neutral safety switch.
I’m having the exact same problem with my 1999 Saturn SL2. It is definitely NOT the 2 things Tester mentioned as I have tried both of those fixes. Right now I’m leaning towards a problem with the starter, somehow.
No click or anything, but the dash lights come on?
Could be the ignition switch. Wiggle the key around.
Tried that before, it also doesn’t work.
try to crank it and have a friend tap the starter while you hold the key in the start position,tap it with a very small hammer,and gently,not a forearm smash
There’s an outlandish test, which I’m sure you don’t want to waste your time on; but, which I thought you might have a laugh at: It involves using a test light, or voltmeter, disconnecting the small wire at the starter solenoid, having a helper turn the ignition key to START, while you touch the test light probe (or, positive probe of the voltmeter) to the wire to the solenoid. If the test light comes on bright, or the voltmeter indicates 12 volts,that shows that the voltage is passing from the fuse, to the ignition switch, to the neutral safety switch, maybe another switch, to the starter solenoid. If the voltage doesn’t get to the starter solenoid, it’s getting high-jacked by one of those switches.
See? I told you that you would get a laugh out of it! Who’s going to do all that stuff, right?
DONT FEEL HE’S READY FOR IN DEPTH TESTING AT THIS POINT IN HIS LIFE.test light for what,thats an accident waiting to happen.voltmeter,buy some new tools ,how bout a vantage ,modis ,2500 series scan tool,subscribe to alldata,test lights went out years ago,ever heard of a new tool called common sense ,any idea what a diode ripple is(nope not ice cream)ever heard of a POWER probe,ever graphed anything? doubt it.yes i own this stuff plus much more,in an attempt to fix this crap.he does not have the knowledge to do this but figured i could narrow it down with a simple test.you are the guy who fries the computors with your test light.
GET SOME TRAINING OR PARK IT.
You wouldn’t hurt anything by use of a fused testlight, or voltmeter on this circuit, because it’s only an electric circuit, not electronic. Therefore, you don’t need any of the more complicated test equipment. It could be any of the switches in the circuit. You could be ahead if you got a knowledgeable mechanic to troubleshoot it.
put your profile on the site so we can see what you are all about. PLEASE
FUSED TEST LIGHT …WHAT,THE HELLOKIT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT,GREAT FOR THIS CIRCUIT,BUT WHAT ABOUT WHEN THEY ASSUME THIS IS O.K. FOR ALL OTHER CIRCUITS,IN THE VEHICLE…THEN WHAT OH I DIDNT SAY THAT ONE.AFTER THEY SPEND 2K FOR A PUTER.
YOU BETTER USE THE PROPER VOLTMETER,YES HELLOKIT THERE IS A DIFFERENCE ON INTERNAL RESITANCE,(OHMS)AND CHEAP WAL MART BO BO METERS WITLL INDUCE ENOUGH RESISTANCE(OHMS )TO OVERLOAD THE CIRCUIT BOARD,AND COOK IT IN MERE MILLISECONDS.
Wanted to post back, took my car in to the shop and they found it’s a dead spot on the starter. They’re replacing the starter. I’m just glad they were able to figure it out!!