The fuel lines on my 2000 Buick Century 3.1L are ready to rupture any day now. I found that I can order custom fit prebent steel fuel lines from “Lines To Go”, online. What all is involved in getting access to the old lines to remove from those plastic gang retainer clips, and fit the new ones in place, what all must be removed for access?
From what I see, the dealership would use a J 37088-A tool set, Fuel Pipe Quick-Connect Separator. There are some nylon pipes apparently involved, and there’s a warning about how to handle those so they aren’t damaged during the replacement. Be sure to clean all the connections first, and you’ll have to relieve the fuel system pressure. The procedure is fairly complicated, suggest you secure a copy of that section of the factory service manual or at least a Chiltons, Haynes, before starting.
I realize your car is 17 yrs old.
How can fuel lines rupture ?
Are they not made of metal ?
I am not criticizing, I just want to learn. 
Metal lines rust.
I think you just have to crawl under there and take a look to see what is all in the way. I know sometimes just changing a filter can be a major pain so it might be something to consider having done at a shop where they can get it up in the air for access.
I’d only use preformed lines on a new car or a restoration where everything is apart or comes apart easily. I prefer to buy preterminated straight sections and fish them in, bending as i go when just replacing rotted out lines. If they’re rusted, so is everything else and tough to take apart without making even more work.
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Q: "How can fuel lines rupture ?
Are they not made of metal ?"
Metal rust! if you live in a Northern climate where they put a lot of salt on the roads, they will eventually rust.To prevent this from happening, you should coat all steel lines with an aerosol rusproofing oil.
Are the lines rotted from one end to the other? if not, then why not buy some rubber fuel injection hose, a handful of clamps, and replace the rotted areas?
If you do this make absolutely SURE you get the F.I. rubber hose; not the regular low pressure fuel hose.
On an 18 year old car with rust that would be the cheapest and fastest solution.
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Here’s some info on how that tool works OP.
Most of the fuel lines are rusted, including areas where concealed and inaccessible at the front end. I was going to do the whole thing in nylon tubing, but am thinking it would be too vulnerable to gravel and metal road hazards.
Road hazards are probably no that much of a concern, there must be some reason though lines are replaced typically with metal lines, prebent would be my preference, .
In my state you are limited to only so many inches of rubber fuel line or you won’t pass inspection. If your gas line has rusted through I would be very concerned about the brake lines. I have had metal lines rust through in less than 10 years. We measure our road salt in tons per lane mile.
I agree, on a 17 year old car I would just route them the easiest way possible and secure them with zip ties.
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I have taken your advise twice here, I am obtaining what I need to connect the new tubing at accessible places, and will route them as directly as I can, and make my own mounting rather than use the factory installed channels & clamps. And, a few years back I replaced the rusty brake lines with CUNIFER tubing.
I don’t know if Cunifer line is legal in NY State. Article 79: 21 page 36 of the NY State inspection law lists “copper tubing or compression fittings” as a reason for failure.
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I haven’t heard any disparaging reports about it here in Ohio though