You replaced bearing. What was part # of bearing? You got receipt? The bearing is separate from knuckle. So, wrong bearing could cause issue. OR install was wrong.
I would look at the opposite side of the car and see how it compares. Either you got the wrong part or it is installed wrong.
That is some damage with the broken control arm and bent knuckle. The ball joint isn’t anywhere near where it should be.
@Natesbox
As PvtPublic and pleasedodgevan2 wrote, something looks wrong with the angle of the ball joint. The centerline of the ball joint stud/bolt doesn’t align with the base of the ball joint. It could be because of the way the front is lifted, but we can’t tell from the picture.
The picture is dark, which does prevent us from seeing any possible details that could be a clue. Can you get supplemental background light and take several more pictures from various views? We may be able to provide more insight from there.
Do you know if this car has been in any accidents, or if the front has slid sideways into a curb, or something similar?
Thanks.
The ball joint angle is pretty steep on the vehicle, and with the suspension unloaded (hanging) it just looks bent, if the suspension was loaded it would be less of an angle…
There is something in the dark picture showing something between the lower control arm and the rotor/backing plate, but just to dark to tell…
OP needs to take a better pic and from more than just one angle and post them here…
The control arm is upside down in this pic…
Bought a Honda with bad wheel bearing. I took knuckle to shop and they pressed in new bearing. Hub was scored so they replaced that with a used one. Cost $125 I think. You can get a knuckle assy at junkyard for about $50-75. If you want.
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Will attempt later this week it’s getting cold out. Ball joint is identical to one that came out, and has never been in accident. Was pressed in correctly with a press. Knuckle being bent is not out of the question, I had major issues getting old wheel bearing out race removed. Looking into Dorman loaded knuckles now bc I am just over this damn job. I’ve done it a dozen times on multiple makes and models including my own Honda and never EVER had this issue. Needless to say once it does get fixed we’re selling it. Anyways. Control arms should be fine car was on jacks for 2+ weeks but bushings are all secure and look good. Drivers side isn’t having any issues and ball joint looks identical. Car has 53xxx miles on it. I checked the vin and it was made in India so I think that’s got smth to do with it. Also when I ordered the Hyundai bearing it was too small just rattled around in the hub. I had to order the 2019 Kia Rio bearing. I’m just at a loss for how badly this company operates as far as QC.
The bearing was only part replaced and now it seems hub position is “off”. Rotor sits on hub. Hub is located by bearing. You could measure from hub flange to point on knuckle. Driver and pass side should be the same dim.
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I photoshopped your picture so it is clearer now. It looks like the backing plate is missing.
It also appears that there is supposed top be a spacer between the backing plate and the knuckle, but if that was missing, I’m not sure you could even mount your brake caliper. This is based on @Tester diagram, but in looking at a replacement knuckle from partsgeek, the caliper mounts directly to the knuckle, but there is stall a spacer between the backing plate and the knuckle.
I think you need to look around your work area for a missing spacer. The spacer would move the hub about 1/2 to 3/4" out away from the lower control arm.
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