ROCK HARD BRAKE PEDAL … OFF AND WHILE RUNNING….

just got a 2002 Ford Taurus Sel and the brakes have been fine. then I noticed my pedal was extremely hard for a moment and normal… about 5 mins later the pedal was again extremely hard and still is. weather the car is running or off…

Here what ive done so far:

Very first thing i did as check the fluid. it was pretty low… 70%-80% empty. Refilled

  1. Checked for vacuum. No gauge but there is tons of “sucking” when i remove hose from booster check valve.
  2. tested check valve. I CANT blow air into/through it. i CAN suck air through it.
  3. With car off, i pushed on petal then started car. PEDDLE DOESN’T MOVE AT ALL

i can stop the car if i really push hard on pedal, but peddle doesn’t really move…

all the info i find only to check booster is to pump brakes with car off and keep pressing while starting the car and the pedal should go down. But since i cant press the pedal at all im not sure what to think.

And even after removing booster vacuum hose the pedal was still solid…

i just don’t want to change the booster and have it not be the issue.

Any ideas? Any other checks i can do to determine the issue?

The same thing happened when the ABS pump failed on the wife’s Jeep.

Had to use both feet on the brake pedal to stop the vehicle because of the hard brake pedal.

Tester

1 Like

Most likely is the ABS pump, can’t be the brake booster since you can still depress the brake pedal full way with a broken brake booster, and most likely isn’t the brake fluid level.

Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster and check if brake fluid has leaked into the booster. If you find brake fluid in the booster replace the master cylinder and the brake booster.

3 Likes

Thx for all your replies .

So I drove the car a few times since Having this problem to see if there is any change. And everything is the same. Pedal is always rock hard and can only depress the pedal maybe a half inch and can just get the car to stop. Also have to put it in to neutra…

I’m used to driving and working on Honda’s. Just looking at the engine compartment of this Ford Tarsus just makes me want to walk away!!! Impossible to reach anything with out taking a ton of sh*t out first that’s in the way…

if I remove my master cylinder from the brake booster it’s going to let air into all my lines correct? So I have to bleed all the brakes when I’m finished?

also is there a way I can bypass my ABS system or pump easily by pulling a fuse or something of the sort just to see if that’s my problem? Or would I have to disconnect and reroute the lines to bypass it?

No. You just have to separate them enough to check for wetness and you should be able to do that without removing the brake lines.

2 Likes