The fuse is likely before the switch so it is constantly powered. A test light or multimeter will tell you for sure.
From what I see there’s a fuse for both R & L low beams, and another fuse for R & L high beams. Both 20 amp. If one side Lo beam works, and the other doesn’t, most likely either a problematic bulb or the ground for the non-working side’s. The ground for the high beams are different locations , not shared with the lo beams. Each lo beam has its own ground, so check to make sure that’s making a good connection to the chassis ground. Could be corrosion in the bulb holder or pigtails too.
Suggest to not even consider the mickey-mouse work-around idea you propose above, that’s likely going to cause you nothing but trouble, including potential car-fire or damage to other expense to replace circuits. Instead ask your friends, co-workers etc, people you know in other words which shop they use to fix this sort of problem on their cars. Then tell the shop owner which of their customers recommended them to you. This shouldn’t be overly difficult to repair, esp if you have the w/o DLR configuration. With the DLR option, a little more difficult. With the auto-headlights option, might be considerably more difficult.
Fuse mini-tutorial: A fuse is made of a special type of metal alloy that heats to a temperature that melts the metal at a certain current. For example the special metal alloy will heat up and melt with a 50 amp or more current going through it, if it is a 50 amp fuse.
OK , do you think everyone knows what you mean by w/o ? You will not have your membership fees raised by using actual words.
This person may not even know that DLR stands for Daylight Running Lights .
Thanks for the advice!
Thanks! Don’t think it’s corrosion, since I used the multi meter and there was not going power to either the bulb or the thingy which powers the bulb (Trying to memorize what my friend told me hah).
I like that you call it a mickey-mouse work-around haha, ye I am gonna let Mickey go this time. Got my appointment the Monday after Thanksgiving. I’ll post whatever the issue was here.
If the left low beam headlight is working this proves the low beam fuse and relay are working.
The problem would be with the fuse block, the connections at the fuse block or headlamp, or an open circuit (break) in the wire. Connectors can be repaired/replaced. If the problem is the the wire and the location in the harness can’t be located, running a new wire is the most practical solution. I would probably charge 2 hours labor for the repair so at least $200.
Some people lack the skills needed to repair wiring and will insist in replacing the wiring harness, thousands of dollars.
I feels so lucky $85 for shoptime pre covid, newer cars now so have not checked prices.
Back in the early 1970’s one of my friends owned a VW Micro-bus, air cooled engine. Looked good, but slow as all get out. He was able to use Mickey Mouse techniques on that to keep it working, his fixes were generally very successful. The wiring diagram on that bus was 2-3 pages. On your car, likely more than 200 pages. Not even in the same ballpark. Good choice to get some pro help.
Thanks for thinking with me, now I got a somewhat better understanding of where the problem might be and how many labor hours it will costs, so that I won’t get screwed over or anything.
I will for sure first ask for the quote so that I can approve it or not before I go with it.
Does this car have halogen bulbs or have some sort of aftermarket HID or LED bulbs been installed? The original equipment halogen bulbs won’t have a thingy which powers the bulbs.
The long awaited update:
Got it back from the garage. Free of charge (honest guys).
Bringing it in, I left the power plugged out since it was a struggle to get back in, and I already tested that (I thought). They plugged the thing back in and it all worked.
Don’t ask me why, or what, but I am really glad it got solved this way. Most probably the bulb I swapped earlier.