Ridiculous 40,000 mile check-up

While I agree that most service writers, and managers, are mechanically clueless and one should never put much faith into what any of them say, I think there is more to this particular story.

I’m of the opinion that if this entire bill was broken down here (labor, parts, sales tax, enviro fees, shop supplies charge, etc.) it ia not as bad as portrayed.

The OP now thinks the tail lights should be a gimmee? This means the OP thinks the mechanic should do this particular job for free because that’s exactly what will occur.
So. What would the OP think if her husband’s employer went in and took away a chunk of pay here, a chunk of pay there, day in and day out, all week long because some of the company’s customers were not happy with the price of the product or service? Same thing.

The OP continues to equate a high price with overcharge and it is not. Anyone who agrees with that simply does not understand what is involved.

Look at the battery mentioned as one of those items. Sure they can get a new battery at Wal Mart for less but that does not mean for a second that the dealer is paying the same price for a battery that WM does. WM installs batteries for free but a dealer does not, and cannot.
If the dealer installs the battery for free this means the mechanic does it again for free.
Dozens of freebies a week adds up to not much of paycheck.

OP was given a list, apparently OP agreed in advance without hubby’s approval, hubby goes ballistic over the surprise, and both now want to equate this with ripoff or overcharge; which it is likely not.

Break down the bill bit by bit and let’s take a look at it.

If you study your manual a bit, you’ll discover that there is virtually nothing to be done for almost 100,000 miles. Then there are a few major maintenance jobs necessary like changing all the fluids, timing belt, filters and such.
That is why learning do it yourself, or at least having a basic understanding of the vehicle can save you money because you can at least converse intelligently with mechanics when you comparison shop.

By the way, the ‘cracking’ of the serpentine belt is normal and the belt does not require replacement ever…unless it is obviously coming apart and chunks of material have come off the ridges of the belt. I had three GM dealers refuse to replace the belt and that is what they told me.

Dang it!
Motor mounts sometime fail. So do ball-joints, oil coolers and a mess of other parts that may be around and in fine condition in junk yards. Part of the game.

All cars have weird, odd, strange, unusual and unbreakable things break. Other folks may never have your problems.

Since you spent the money, enjoy your car. Or sell it to your kid.

By the way, the ‘cracking’ of the serpentine belt is normal and the belt does not require replacement ever…unless it is obviously coming apart and chunks of material have come off the ridges of the belt. I had three GM dealers refuse to replace the belt and that is what they told me.

I respectfully disagree with you and your three GM dealers. I believe cracking is a sign that a belt is nearing the end of its life, and that it should be replaced before it starts falling apart. IMHO, being proactive about things like belts and hoses can keep you from being stranded at the side of the road, and can extend the life of the vehicle. If I were in your shoes, I would have insisted they replace the belt. Then I would have found a mechanic who shares my proactive philosophy regarding automotive maintenance.

If I remember correctly, I believe replacing the battery in a VW means having to reactivate the radio, which can usually only be done at the VW dealership. That could explain at least some of the extra cost, but could be avoided with a simple device that plugs into the interior 12 volt power outlet to keep power going to the accessories while the battery is disconnected.

I agree that it isn’t fair to expect mechanics to work for free, but, even if you pay the mechanic, $213 for a new battery is outrageous.

Yeah, they saw you coming. Even $1300.00 for what you got would have been too high.
And, I wonder if your car was in as bad shape as they say - unless you drive the car very recklessly. Next time, remember, if you can drive it to another shop, do so. If not, have it towed. You can get a great battery at the WalMart for your car for $67.00 and get a $9.00 rebate for your old one. Same with AutoZone. But, if you weren’t having problems with the battery, why did you let them take it? Best thing to do with a VW car at the scheduled maints is to trade them in for a car that isn’t a VW.

Perhaps defending myself is impossible, ok4450, since this post indicates to me that you really haven’t been reading my posts very carefully. But I’ll try.

The OP does NOT “now” think the tail lights should be a gimmee. I was suggesting that when a customer is faced with such a bill – particularly a bill which suspiciously includes at least three items (totalling $1000) that WOULD have been covered under warranty if only they had cropped up 6 months ago at the last check-up – it is in the dealer’s best interest to do what he can to show the customer that he’s not just bilking her for all he can. As a show of good faith, it would have been a great idea to just say, “Oh, hey, we also noticed your rear lights were out and replaced them. That one’s on us. You’re paying quite a bit for this service and we’d like to do what we can to help you out.”

In negotiations parlance, this is called “creating a win-win situation.” They would be making me THINK I’d “won” somehow by getting something for free. However, what I was getting for free didn’t actually cost them very much. So they get their $$$, and I walk away thinking I got a deal. All I was doing was suggesting that this would have been a much better way for the dealership to approach the situation.

Secondly, I am also not equating a high price with overcharging. I’m ASKING the group here whether, in fact, in their opinion(s), these charges are legitimate or not. I’m also asking whether the repairs were legitimate or not. Those answers are important to me as I make the decision of whether or not this dealer was dealing with me fairly – and thus, whether I’d ever return. Unlike you, most seem to feel that this dealership likely wasn’t dealing with me fairly and that it’s a good idea to head to a specialty mechanic, now that I’m out of warranty.

Finally, please don’t apply your sexist view of what happened here. I am not married to Ralph Kramden and it wasn’t my husband’s reaction that caused me to come to this forum and ask questions. We were BOTH annoyed at having to pay this (surprising) amount for this particular service. And, yes, I authorized the work and therefore paid it. Having received a series of replies both here and at vwvortex.com that indicated some of this work may have been either jacked up in price OR possibly ignored in order to catch it after the warranty expired, we then took advantage of the dealership’s sexist attitudes by having HIM call and play a little “bad cop” to my “good cop.”

See the difference? Hubby didn’t actually go ballistic with me, but was willing to go ballistic with the dealership, knowing that if they had been dealing with him in the first place, they probably wouldn’t have done what they did – and that having him call is much more likely to produce results than having me call, given their attitudes toward women.

I don’t feel guilty at all for trying to get as much back from these guys as we can, given the way they were trying to squeeze us in the first place. We wouldn’t be doing this if the dealership had tried harder to cut us a break on any of these prices – or if the general consensus was that these were completely legitimate prices and/or repairs – but that’s not the situation. Of course mechanics shouldn’t be expected to work for free. But neither should customers be cheated out of our hard-earned money. When we are, we have every right to strike back via a husband’s angry phone call! (And the dealership has every right to tell us they’re sorry but the work was done, paid for, and we’re sorry you’re angry but the price is the price. This is all a negotiation.)

Here is a little advice for you. You have the power at any time to look the service advisor or manager at the dealership and say “NO”. They cannot push it any further than that. These technicians work on VW’s just like yours every day of their lives. They are trained naturally to recognize anything that has gone wrong with your vehicle, probably before they even get it into the garage. They recognize smells, sounds, feel, just about anything that you might not notice because you drive the car every day and are used to the way it is, but it certainly doesnt mean it is safe, just because you feel safe.

As far as the warranty thing goes, the dealer doesnt care whether or not you pay for the repairs, or if VW pays for the repairs. When a repair is done under warranty, its not the dealership that pays for the repair. It is the manufacturer. The manufacturer actually pays about the same that you would pay. So please, dont blame this issue on the dealer. They are not in fault that they didn’t catch anything on the last service. The way I understand it, you have not seen the dealer since before your warranty ran out in december of 2008. Thats a long time. It has been at least 6 months. Maybe if you spent a little more time at the dealer getting regular maintenance done, the less you would be spending all at once. Either way you look at it, cars are going to break. Its a way of life. These people are just trying to help you by telling you what is wrong with your vehicle to keep you safe. Take advantage of it. Even if you have to say no a few times.

Not going to the dealer in 6 months is a long time?? Are you saying the OP should go only to the dealer for oil changes since that is all that should have occurred in the last 6 months.

They would be making me THINK I’d “won” somehow by getting something for free. However, what I was getting for free didn’t actually cost them very much. So they get their $$$, and I walk away thinking I got a deal.

If I didn’t know better, I might think you were inviting them to deceive you. Doesn’t this tactic depend on you being unaware of its use as a tactic? Your mentioning it here indicates it would not have worked on you.

No, no, I’m just suggesting that this is how a good negotiator (and a good dealer) would approach this situation. It likely would have worked on me, because it would have diffused my suspicions that I was being cheated… and I probably would never have checked with you folks on this forum to determine the level at which we were being cheated at all!

After reading all the posts, I conclude that you were taken advantage of. If you visited the dealer 6 months ago when the car was covered by warranty, and nothing was reported to be wrong, and now many things are wrong, I suspect the “deep pockets” approach (gullible owner with cash) on the part of the dealer. Contrary to another post, dealers get paid LESS for warranty work, and need to get approval from VW. They don’t like doing warranty work unless their shop is empty.

Most of the items identified as needing repairs were probably necessary at some time in the near future. This is not a sexist thing on the part of the shop; everyone gets this pitch. And it is not just VW shops; just take a perfectly good car to Sears Auto, act gullible and busy, show your Sears credit card, and you will get a phone call selling the flavor of the month repairs.

The price for the items charged is very high; an independent shop would be able to do all this for about one half the cost. That does not reflect dishonesty on the part of the dealer; all VW shops charge a lot.

In conclusion, may I offer some constructive advice:

  1. You and your husband should become more “car-smart”; this can include taking some car owner courses (AAA), or buying any of the numerous books written for car owners. Also, learn to say “no” to things other than what you brough the car in for, until you get a second opinion. My wife is a medical person, and very car smart; asking for a second opinion is an accepted medical procedure.

  2. You and your husband are probably the wrong types to own Volkswagens, which require a lot of extra care, intuition as to what may go wrong, and second guessing the maintenance manual, which has TOO FEW oil and transmission service events in it. As per my previous post, I only recommend VWs to car savvy technical types with a masochistic streak in them.

Reviewing your Acura ownership costs will give you some ideas what owning a good, durable and reliable car entails.

Good luck.

Personally, I don’t expect (or want) my mechanic or service adviser to be a good negotiator. I don’t want to dicker with my service providers. I just want the person to be honest and forthcoming with me. This isn’t a bazaar or a flea market, and the prices should not be negotiable. If a legitimate place of business starts negotiating its prices, it means they are charging their customers who are good hagglers one price and customers who are not good hagglers another price. In my opinion, that is even more unethical than overcharging all of their customers. They should be charging all of their customers consistent rates for every job, based on the particulars of each job. If they did what you suggest, I would immediately become suspicious that I was being deceived.

I think this particular expectation is unrealistic.

Thanks so much. I think your advice is spot on… though the car owner courses will have to wait 'til the parenting courses are over. When will that be? :wink:

#1, I feel your pain. I was a loyal VW owner for 19 years. I liked the way they drove, handled, and the seating comfort. I just thought that the high cost of maintenance was normal. I had a Beetle, 2 Audi Foxes, 4 Jettas, 1 VW Fox, and 1 Passat. I drove a lot of miles a year and had all kinds of problems that my friends and co-workers never had, but I had “German engineering”. The Passat was the last one that I owned and it finally made me switch to Toyotas. Since doing so, I know what carefree, low maintenance driving is all about. I drove my 2002 Camry 177,000 miles in 6.5 years and the only non-wear item that I replaced was an exhaust pipe that flexed. I drive mostly highway miles, but I didn’t even have to have any brake work done in the time that I owned it. The clutch was original, I never even had to replace a light bulb. My wife’s 2004 Camry has been similar, although we had to replace the front brake pads and rotors at 102,000 miles. And a brake light is out now. It’s got 120,000 miles and is due for an oil and filter change and air and cabin air filter changes.

In my opinion, dealer maintenance schedules are suggested. I have long since stopped doing my own work and I now go to the Goodyear shop next to my office. I have established a relationship with them and they know that I do not accept their suggestions for extra work without thought and research. I look over the mantenance schedule in the Toyota book and change the oil and filter, air filter, and cabin air filter at Toyota’s suggested intervals. I also have the coolant replaced about every 4 years and the transmission fluid replaced every 50,000 miles. I have the alignment checked and done if necessary when I replace tires. Beyond that, the Toyotas have not really needed additional work except as noted above.

Others have suggested better alternatives than the dealer. We had some minor body work done on the 2004 Camry (not our fault), and we rented a car from Enterprise for less than $40 a day. It worked for us. My suggestion for the future is to drive the VW for a while to get your money back from the service and then to trade it in on a Toyota or a Honda. You’ll get the sales tax deduction and have a more reliable, carefree experience with your transportation needs. I say Honda because I know of other folks who have had excellent car ownership experiences with them also. Toyota does not make the only good cars, but VW make a lot of high maintenance ones. Just my $0.02 GOOD LUCK!

Just my $.02: I had a 1994 Saturn SL 2 (probably not the greatest car ever built, but I liked it) that I bought new and drove 181,500 miles. Other than tires, brakes, oil changes, and other normal maintenance items (which were not very expensive at all) I didn’t really put anything into that car. I get the impression from talking to a lot of people that VWs are rather fussy and VERY expensive to fix. I’ve heard more than once of simple repairs where I could grab something for 4 or 5 bucks at Wal-Mart and throw it in my Civic before leaving the parking lot costing well north of 100 bucks on a VW. If I had a car like that I think I’d point it at a cement wall and put a brick on the throttle pedal! These things seem to rack-up VERY expensive repair costs many miles before they should. $2600 at 40,000 miles? That’s outrageous!

That just goes to show you they did see you coming and they have ZERO confidence in what they billed you. WAY TO GO!!!

You got taken to the cleaners. With only 40,000 miles, I’d be suspect that a motor mount, a drive belt or an oil cooler would be in that bad shape. It should also not cost 50 bucks to replace a couple taillights. Your battery also, should have lasted a lot longer than 4 years. Since you’ve already paid for all this work, there’s nothing you can do now except vent about it on an Internet forum.

I would highly suggest you stop going to that dealer. Go to another dealer if you can for your regular maintenance–this one seems to make a business out of fleecing its customers.

As a current VW (actually this is my second Jetta, a 1990 and 2001)…

yes those prices are high. I live in Atlanta and after the warratny was done on my vehicle I found an independent VW master mechanic - much cheaper. A ball park figure for a tune-up/service is ~ $100 per cylinder. I have never replaced my rotatars on either vehicle. Yes the pads around 80K, but that’s wear and tear. I have a drive chain not belt (I would make sure on that for you). bulbs cost anywhere from $5 to $15 at NAPA auto parts. A new battery, installed, is about $120 (at my independent dealer).

A dealer here wanted to change a spark plug and wire for me at about $220. My independent dealer charged me $120 (the part itself cost $80 even if I bought it myself). Nice $100 mark-up. But they have to pay for those nice dealerships.

When I was in Richmond I used this independent dealer called The Bug Haus. Not fancy, the waiting room was cold, they care more about your VW then you (that’s great, I didn’t go there to be pampered I went to have my car pampered.) I loved them. They did great work, honest work and fair price.

Once the warranty is gone, stay away from the dealer. At some time or other, we all get taken, that’s when we take our money elsewhere. Let them know that.

Just because you were cheated out of all that money, doesn’t make VW bad. I’ve had my Beetle for 11 years now. She’s got 81,000 miles on her. Best car I’ve ever owned! She looks good, runs good and is paid for. My dealer is not cheap, but honest. I see myself in that car for many more good years.
And yes, by all means, find a RELIABLE independent facility. Your car is out of warranty anyway. They are bound to be more reasonable. Good luck!

First off I agree with the anti-VW posts based on my own anecdotal experience with a 2000 VW Jetta GLX.
Secondly, dealers and other shops work in shop time (flat rate?). They have a book that details the time to do each job. If it says 30 min to change the battery, then they charge you that amount. For $200+, I could have bought an Optima battery at the local parts store, installed it in 10-15 min, and gone out to a really good lobster dinner and still left a hefty tip. So the response that they charged “fairly” is only true if looking at the book time. Most mechanics learn tips and tricks and get special tools to get the job done much quicker but you still pay for the full time per the book. This is how many mechanics can get 60 hrs of work done in 40 hrs each week. They can also earn a bonus that they apply to new tools to continue that kind of work. It is industry practice.
Thirdly, I will NEVER buy another European vehicle. I had 160,000 mi on my Jetta when the engine quit working. The dealer wanted 1 hr diagnostic fee at $125 per hr and a local shop only wanted $95. They told me that one of the chains had broken, it has 2, and the cost was $3500 to fix it. Then the owner said if it was his car he WOULDN’T fix it as the trans is not too far from going out too. His experience showed that VW auto trans get about 150,000 before needing major repairs. I could not get help from VW-USA as they said there was a service interval for the chain. I quoted them from both the owners manual and the Bentley service manual that I had bought from the dealer that there was no chain service listed and they firmly stated that there was an interval for that—must be in the ether they drink. NEVER will do it again- probably Japanese next, maybe Honda.