Slotted/drilled rotors won’t warp any slower, and unless they’re cast with the holes in them, will crack easier than normal rotors. Unless you’re racing, you don’t need that stuff (and even if you’re racing, you don’t need crossdrilled - just slotted, and not for outgassing or rotor longevity, but to shave the pads so they don’t glaze.)
I would consider how thick the pads are, OP. If they’re not all that worn down, then why waste them? If they’re getting thin, then you might as well swap them to save yourself having to go back in and do it soon.
The old argument about pads and rotors taking a set really doesn’t hold much water. When I was younger I unknowingly did an experiment, because I was a poor college student. I got a car that was selling cheap because the brakes made lots of noise. Turns out whoever did the pads the last time put one of them in backwards. The rotor looked like a vinyl record - grooves everywhere. I turned the pad around and put it back on the car because I didn’t want to buy a new rotor if I didn’t have to, and something like a thousand miles later when I had the wheel off for another project, noticed the rotor was nice and smooth again.
Yes, rotors and pads will “take a set” to each other, but if you put new rotors on, the pads will “take a set” to them, too.