I had gotten my car “fix” at a local place in my town and they had said my check engine light was on and it was something to do the cam sensor. So I tell them then fix it. Well they fixed it and then we took it home and it was running like crap! It chugs, makes weird noises that i cant even describe. Well it still does this at 1,000 miles after getting it done(they said its because the new sensor thinks that is a new engine and it would be better after 500-1,000 miles). The place i fixed it had said it will get better. Why hasn’t it gotten better? Plus we went back in and the check engine light was on again and now they say the computer is functioning in my car and there is nothing wrong and that the chugging will get better.I think something really is up with this! No car should be chugging when sitting in one place. Plus when you start the car the RPMs go crazy… up and down and up and down. there is also now getup… it takes alot for the car to get going and if its going over 40 at the 40 mark the RPMs go really high and drop fast! Please let me know if im getting screwed. (I have a car reader if someone wants to know the code ask…) (its a 98!)
You have been to an incompetent shop. They are unlikely, probably unable, to make it right. Shop around for a reputable shop. Even ask other mechanics where they would go for such a problem.
If you want to share those codes, that would be helpful. Also, car year, engine size.
Car is a Ford Taurus 1998 engine size 3.0 (OHV I believe).
The reader states:
P1309 Misfire Monitor Hardware - CMP Misaligned, CKP/CMP Noise, PCM AICE Chip
MIL ON
MisFire Monitor Complete
Fuel System Monitor Complete
Comprehensive Component Monitor Complete
Catalyst Monitor Complete
Heated Catalyst Monitor Not Supported
Evaporative System Monitor Not Complete
Secondary Air System Monitor Not Supported
A/C System Refrigerant Monitor Not Supported
Oxygen Sensor Monitor Complete
Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitor Complete
EGR System Monitor Complete
DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored P1309
Fuel System 1 Status Closed Loop
Fuel System 2 Status Not Supported
Calculated LOAD Value 64.31 %
Engine Coolant Temp 136.40 ?F
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 3.91 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 5.47 %
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2 0.00 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2 5.47 %
Engine RPM 1846 rpm
Vehicle Speed Sensor 16.16 mph
After doing some looking around, and looking at my repair bill I noticed that they either did not replace the bushings, or didn’t charge me for replacing them, which seems like a bad thing.
Oh and they had stated that the computer was malfunctioning, and that fixing that would likely fix the problem. They stated that computers going out on this type of car was common.
It is important to note that the car was running well prior to their fix, It sent out this code that warranted their “repair”:
Stored:
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (Bank 1 or single sensor)
MIL ON
MisFire Monitor Complete
Fuel System Monitor Complete
Comprehensive Component Monitor Complete
Catalyst Monitor Complete
Heated Catalyst Monitor Not Supported
Evaporative System Monitor Complete
Secondary Air System Monitor Not Supported
A/C System Refrigerant Monitor Not Supported
Oxygen Sensor Monitor Complete
Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitor Complete
EGR System Monitor Complete
DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored P0340
Fuel System 1 Status Closed Loop
Fuel System 2 Status Not Supported
Calculated LOAD Value 24.71 %
Engine Coolant Temp 147.20 ?F
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 -0.78 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 4.69 %
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2 -2.34 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2 6.25 %
Engine RPM 1580 rpm
Vehicle Speed Sensor 41.63 mph
I hope this helps you to help me.
I should note that they offered to change the plugs and wires for me as well. I replaced the plugs myself, and I am going to do the wires soon, but there has been no noticeable improvement.
P0340 is for a problem in the, “camshaft position sensor A circuit”. This is wiring from the camshaft shaft position sensor (CMP) to the engine computer (PCM).
This problem can be caused by crud collected in the notch where the CMP sits. Also, the latching tab may have been broken off the electrical connector on the CMP. This would allow crud to get into the connector and cause problems.
Use an electrical spray cleaner, and brush, to clean out the crud. Pull the electrical connector and clean it well, inside and out.
A mechanic should check the voltage, and signal, from the CMP to the PCM.
The data shows the engine in “closed loop” operation at 147F degrees. This is too cool. It should go into closed loop after the engine reaches 160F degrees (and higher). Something is not right, here.
Keep us posted.