Recomended tools to remove a bolt with a snaped head?

Yes, but if the bolt can be freed an impact wrench is much more likely to do so. That’s one reason why we use them, isn’t it?

If it can be loosened by hand, it isn’t by definition stuck! :grin:

This is typically what I do for repairs as I run into rusted nuts/bolts constantly.

This is what concerns me when I asked an exhaust shop what they do to remove seized exhaust manifold bolts.

That doesn’t bug me at all. If I have a shop do it and they break the head off of a bolt, that’s their problem, and they definitely have the tools and knowhow to deal with it. I only get worried about breaking bolt heads when I’m the one who has to get out of that mess! :smiley:

I’m curious how you can use an easy out when it’s hard enough to get wrenches in to just to get AT the exhaust manifold bolts (in my case, nuts). Two of the nuts require that you separate the engine from one of the engine mounts and jack it up two inches to get at them on one side!

I’m guessing they must weld bolt heads to the studs in case they break off as I can’t see any other way.

While I can’t speak to the OP’s specific design, in critical applications “mechanical locking” nuts are often used. They’re simply nuts that have had the threads slightly distorted to cause a locking effect. Often they can be identified by a slight square “ding” on one of the flats. I’ve never seen welding. Removing these systems is generally done by cutting the old parts off and using new ones. Many nuts even specify on their design drawings that they’re “one time use”.
I’ve attached a photo that shows non-reusable parts and how they’re typically designated. I find having these types of drawings handy before starting a repair to be invaluable.

NOTE: the only two ways I know of to get these types of drawings are to (1) subscribe to a database (I miss mine) or (2) bring a box of doughnuts in to the parts window guy at your local dealership. :grin: