Have a Rav 4 with 103K on it. did the bumper push test. Fronts I can’t budge. back I can push down and it wiggles maybe 1-2" twice on the release. I know I need new rear shocks. I need help because I’ve done a lot to my cars over 47 years but never shocks. I can get OEM toyota’s for $41 each online. I looked at Autozone and Advanced auto and they are hard to come by but 71 to 91 or so each (mainly monroe’s). I’ve read here some say don’t get monroes. I went to Rock auto and they have a few choices in the 27 to 30 range but I never heard of them. Don’t know when I’ll replace the car so anthing that gives me a couple of years is fine. Might go EOM.
The main question is can this be done by me. I have the haynes manual and watched Youtube videos. two concerns I have are the bolts rusted (don’t think so but will spray them) and can I get to the top mounting bolt without too much trouble. I have jack stands and will get a floor jack to hold the wheel area up as they recommend. If I can get a wrench (open ended) and torque wrench on the bolt and it’s easy to break, I should be okay. Never done it. Need your advice. Guess if not, I can buy the shocks (OEM or Rock) and take to a garage to do it. I did with one of my 1994 camrys at firestone and they cross threaded one bolt and I had to break it off to get the flat tire off. Luckily it was near 200K and I dumped the car. Not happy with people screwing up my cars if I can do the work myself. Thanks for any input or other things to consider. will have a month or so as it’s cold where I’m at and don’t like laying on the floor or doing work in the garage when it’s below 50F outside.
Look under the car at the rear shocks. Are they greasy-dirty? Visibly leaking?
If they are clean and dry and bumps don’t make the Rav jump sideways, they are likely OK. The bounce test is not a good tool to determine good or bad shocks or struts.
That said, if you must change them, buy the OEMs… $41 is a good price. WD40 or PB Blaster or Kroil are your friends here. Soak the bolts and nuts each day for 3 days. It will help. A breaker bar or impact wrench helps a lot to break them loose.
I agree with @Mustangman, with one addition. WD-40 is NOT a good choice. It’s not a penetrating oil. Don’t frustrate yourself, get a can of real serious penetrating oil. It makes a world of difference.
The bounce has been the standard along with a visual inspection to check for worn struts/shocks.
So, those of us with experience can tell if a strut/shock is worn using this method of testing.
I believe KYB is the OEM supplier for the shocks for your vehicle.
If so, I wouldn’t install KYB shocks. KYB has been selling junk recently, and you’d be lucky.if they lasted six months before they started leaking.
Tester
thanks for the reply. our roads are bumpy and full of pot holes. I have a 2016 optima and can’t even budget the back on it. I was at a Kia and couldn’t budge the sportage back bumper. I went to Toyota but didn’t try it there. I had 3 camrys (two 1994s and one 2005 and never changed the rears and got at least 187K on 2005 but wrecked it’s front and the 1994 only had the front changed on one of them and they went over 200K). So I hear you. I can push that back bumper down (i’m pretty strong for my age but it’s easy to do). Yes, I was going to take one back tire off and see if I can reach the top bolt. Was going to spray them at least once and let soak for a week or so (and can do more as you suggest). I have some other oils but can get a can of penetrating oil. Good point. I don’t think they are rusty and it’s a garage car and in the south. But anything to help break them, the happier I am.
Don’t think they are leaking. I know the fronts aren’t as I just changed the brake fluid this past week and they don’t dip with any pressure on the bumper. I will not change those if they go. Too difficult for me. Oh yeah, the fronts need an alignment. Do the backs after replacing?? don’t know why as I’m not moving the wheel hub any (or am I???). thanks for the replies.
In those driving conditions, with 100k+ miles, apparently worn rear shocks, I’d probably replace the front struts, too. The bounce test is not as good for them.
Tester
No need for an alignment after replacing rear shocks.
yeah, roads here are messy. thanks for the reply. Looked at a new Rav but man, 38.6K for an XLE premium. Guy said maybe 2K off. Don’t have the cash now but these parts should last longer. they did on my camrys. so if the bounce test isn’t good, then all you have is mileage unless it sways or handles like poop. I hear you as the net says 50 to 100K and change shocks. I think I can do the backs and will see if I can get wrenches on the top bolt. I have some time as you guys suggest so I’ll drive and watch how it handles. My problem is I drive in the woods every day (sometimes 2x) and those are dirt roads with gravel exposed. sometimes my teeth rattle!!
The net is wrong. This advice is the old husband’s tale. The same as the bounce test.
Shocks can rarely fail internally but the weak point in any shock is the oil seal. When the oil leaks out, the damping drops off. Typical OE shocks can easily last 200K.
The weakest point in the car is any rotating joint like ball joints or tie rod ends. When they wear they get easy to move. The friction in brand new joint adds damping. The shocks add more. When the ball joint friction reduces the car loses damping.
If the shock or strut is tested for load, you will usually get within 10% of what it was new, even at 100K if it hasn’t been leaking.
I used to design these things for a living.
Presuming you have the 2WD version. For that I’m seeing replacing both rear shocks taking about 2.5 hours. The oem part is about $60 each. Make sure you get the correct version, Canada-built vs Japan built. If you can really get the oem version for $60 each, that’s what I’d do.
No experience w/that replacement procedure, but it looks pretty straightforward, mostly just involves unbolting the old one and bolting the new one back in. Some of the rear suspension components the shock bolts to may need to be supported from below by a jack.
If these are air-shocks, it is very important safety-wise to wear eye-protection, etc. Anytime working under the car a good idea anyway.
My experience w/shock replacement on my truck, the most difficult part of the job is getting the old ones off b/c of rusted & stuck fasteners. I had to result cutting the fasteners off w/a torch. But if you clean them w/a wire brush then pre-soak them a few days before removal w/a thread penetrant product you’ll probably be able to wrench them off.
Access to top mounting bolt … no idea, but such a thing must be possible. You may need to buy/rent some tools you don’t current have though. I expect you already know that’s just the way it is for diy’ers.
If you save $500 or more, do it. If not then it isn’t worth it. If a shop will charge that much more than
your DIY job, you are now an approved mechanic. Take a day off if it’s less.
hmmm … I guess it depends on how one values their time . Me, I’d do it myself even if I could only save $200 over what a shop would ask. I’d have to earn $300 to pay a shop $200 after taxes, so I’d really be saving $300. That’s would be the equivalent of $50/hour if the job took me 6 hours, which it probably would … lol …
My opinion, do not buy the shocks (or any parts for any repair) and take it to the mechanic you use. Discuss brand options with the shop. If they source the parts, then they normally with warrant both the parts and labor.
I’d have to lay down and see but doubt they are leaking. okay, on KYB. that is why I asked experts. I think Rock had a few (3 or so) options. I’m hankering for a new rav but don’t have the money now so… It rides okay but roads are bumpy/holes. My 3 camrys all went to 187 to just over 200K when I dumped and they didn’t have any issues on the back shocks. thx
thanks. i’ll watch this.
yeah, I didn’t think so. they say the fronts need an alignment but I didn’t see how the backs would. Thanks for the advice.
yeah, FWD only. No need for AWD here but lots of people buy them. I don’t think it’s japan but I saw online or ordering that there is a japan type and canada type. I’ll have to look at the vin and confirm it’s not from japan. Also something about a dot or dimple that has to point forward when installing. I’ll spray them if I decide to do this. If I can get a wrench on it, I’ll try this. I’d rather do my own work and not screw it up and save money. gives me something to do. yeah, you have to jack up the wheel to compress the shock some to make it easy to remove. Thanks to all for the advice. I think you covered it all. Have a good one.