Really AAMCO?!?...Really!

What we are trying to tell you is that AAMCO and other chains should be totally avoided. Don’t even turn around in their parking lot.

When was the last time you had the transmission fluid changed?  I'll guess never.  Hint, that is why you are now trying to find a cheap fix for your transmission. 

Sorry I can't offer a cheap fix, but that opportunity has already been missed.   The best we can do for you is to encourage you to avoid the problem in the future and wish you luck in the future.

Tanasha, I dont think they are scamming you at all either about the rebuild or the price. First of all, your dad found metal in the pan. Depending on what metal he found, Brass=Bushings, Steel=Internal hard parts or thrust bearings, and Aluminum= internal hard parts or case. This will tell you exactly what the problem is. I build these 4L60E’s all the time and usually find the same problems in them. Can you be real specific and tell me exactly what the trans is doing?? I can most likely tell you whether the trans is worth rebuilding or whether you need something else. Next, DONT buy one of those Auto Zone or other auto parts store $900 specials. You get exactly what you pay for. I cant tell you how many of those transmissions cross my bench. The companies they deal with go the cheapest route they can when building them. $900 is dirt cheap for one of these and thats what they are selling them to the customer for so you know they have much less in them. Your best bet is to find a small mom and pop type transmission shop or find someone who builds racing versions of this trans because these are the guys who KNOW how to properly build these transmissions. Places like AAMCO more or less throw parts in them to get them out the door.

transman

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Tanasha–Transman is our resident transmission expert, and you should heed his words carefully in regard to both the transmission and AAMCO. However, I have to point out that the other nationwide chains (Lee Myles, Cottman, Mr. Transmission) have reputations that are not much better than the badly tarnished rep of AAMCO.

Some people, after being warned about AAMCO’s poor workmanship, decide to patronize them anyway because of their “nationwide warranty”. However, we have had numerous complaints in this forum from folks who found out that AAMCO frequently weasels out of their warranty coverage based on some types of technicalities. Others reported that they had to have AAMCO re-do their work numerous times until they finally got it right.

As transman recommended, your best bet is to go to an independent trans shop in your area. Ask friends, relatives, neighbors, and co-workers for recommendations.

An indy shop is much more likely to give you an honest diagnosis, a fair price, and–above all–good workmanship. Just don’t be dismayed by the prices that you are quoted, because transmission work never comes cheap, and getting a lower price frequently means more headaches in the long run.

You don’t know know for sure that you NEED a transmission…Usually, when a transmission fails, the vehicle will not move…I would get a second opinion before I condemned the transmission…

A good used transmisson can be a crap shoot, SO…
Call salvage yards who’ll give a warranty with it, usually something like 90 days to a year. Generally speaking, if the used one doesn’t work right you’ll know it very soon and they’ll take it back . Pay for a warranty that includes the labor too.
My best recycler is affiliated nationally with LKQ, a company of used, aftermarket and rebuilt parts.
Not sure where you are but their number is 800-469-0665.
When buying a used transmission you must also add the price of a new filter and fluid. Possibly front and rear seals.

For reference sake I checked Auto Zone. Their rebuilt tranny with three year warranty ( no labor ) costs me 1255 and would sell to the customer at 1799.00.
plus fluid
plus labor.

So that 2000.00 is not out of line at all.

How long do you intend to keep the van?
Invest in keeping it.
Find a good local indy shop,
Buy a good used or reman trans.

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You still seem to have a hangup about the price. The prices you’ve seen that are much lower are for the transmission only. If you pay that price, they will hand you a box with a transmission inside it and send you home. You will then have to either install it yourself, or pay someone to do it.

The AAMCO price is for the transmission and the installation charge. That’s why it’s more expensive than just a transmission.

And, as the others said, avoid chain shops like AAMCO. Not because their price is out of line, but because you can pay a similar amount at an independent shop and have someone who actually knows what he’s doing work on your car rather than the tech-monkey-of-the-week at a chain shop.

I agree. Stay away from chains. Sometimes you get lucky and may get a good mechanic but that guy isn’t going to stay, after seeing what sorts of things happen in places like that. You may think that they’ll hook you up on a next visit but that’s when they totally hose your car up.

AAMCO is to transmissions what Captain Ahab is to the whales.

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Wow you guys have all given me wonderful advice and a lot of food for thought. I guess one of the problems in finding a “Mom and Pop” shop out here is we are brand new to the area and know nobody!
As far as my vans symptoms lets see when I drive her in “D” she will only go up to about 20mph, then I have to shift into “2” and she will go up to around 45-50mph then just kinda sounds like we are going up a super big hill and yah that is about it. Here is what Aamco had to say…
Transmission engages ok, slide shift 1-2 slips and neutralizes 2-3, transmission 3 quarts low (oops). Internal transmission problem caused from low fluid level and pressure. No codes after being scanned by computer. Recommended: internal service.

He also said not to park on an upward hill because it looks like it is leaking trans fluid from the back (can’t remember the name of the piece he said), so yah, there you go Transman618! What do YOU think?

Transmission 3 quarts low on oil (oops)…Oops, right…$3000 Ka-ching…

Ok, thats what I needed. Heres whats wrong with your trans. First, the slide shift from 1-2. That is going to be a worn/glazed 2-4 band. The trans was slipping from being 3 quarts low. That damaged the 2-4 band and most likely the reverse input drum (This is what the band grips) causing the band to slip and cause the slide shift from 1-2. The neutralizing in 3rd means your 3-4 clutches are bad. The 3-4 stackup in this trans are a very common problem and are one of the things that have to be upgraded when rebuilding. While the 3-4’s are generally weak, the low fluid level was the straw that broke the camels back and sunk them. They found no codes. If I had your trans on my bench, heres what I would do. Master overhaul kit, reverse input drum, HD band, HD sun shell, Z-Pack 3-4 stackup, overhaul pump, replace electronics, replace PR valves, rebuild valve body, ream and sleeve TCC regulator and isolator valve bores and replace valves. New converter and filter kit. $2,000 is a good deal for this.

Oh yea, I know where the metal is coming from…

transman

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Do tell Transman. So what you are saying is that it does in fact need to be rebuilt right? Why do transmissions have to be so damn complicated for?

My father in law said that it was copper in color.

Copper colored particles means bushing material likely from the front pump and stator bushings, etc.
Running the transmission low on fluid will cause this along with burning the clutch packs up and it can do this in seconds.

The leak at the back is probably due to a leaking extension housing seal; a.k.a. tailshaft seal.
At this point I don’t think the transmission failed for any reason other than failure to keep tabs on things and operating the vehicle while the transmission was severely low on fluid.

The transmission needs to be completely overhauled by the book, it’s not cheap no matter what, and the only other option is to try and find a low miles unit while offering a short prayer to the autmotive gods that the transmission is good.

If you decide to go with a used unit I would strongly suggest that both extension housing seal and front pump seal be replaced before installing it even if those seals are not leaking.

With low fluid level I knew you at least had to have bushing material in the pan. Its going to be from the front pump and more than likely the reverse input drum. To go further on what ok4450 said on the tail housing. Your leak back there is due to a bad seal and/or bushing. Replacement of both of those is part of an overhaul. Your trans definitely needs to be overhauled.

transman

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Why do transmissions have to be so damn complicated for?

Because people think stick shifts are too hard :wink:

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Automatic Transmission failures are what keeps the car companies in business…They are the weak link and because they are so expensive to repair or rebuild properly, many car owners just opt for a new or newer car…They provide employment for tens of thousands of mechanics like Transman who specialize in repairing them…Just R&Ring them, remove and replace, can be a complicated and difficult process usually performed by a separate group of mechanics.

Most Automatic transmission can live for several hundred of thousands of miles…I know…I’ve owned two that have gone past the 250k miles when we owned it…and then one went past 400k miles last I knew…and the other well past 300k miles…all with the original tranny’s.

The key is maintenance. Change the fluid every 30-40k miles. Check the level periodically. If you keep up with the maintenance…it’ll last a long long time. From what I’ve read so far…it doesn’t seem that you’ve kept up with the maintenance and even let it run low. Now it’s going to cost you a lot more then if you just kept up with the maintenance. Let this be a lesson to you. Unfortunately a very expensive lesson.

I work on computers and often get the same type of responses about their repair. Computers are often a loss leader where the retail stores selling them are selling them below cost, often hundreds of dollars below cost when they are on sale and combined with coupons/rebates! The retail chains are hoping to make up for this loss through the sale of software, service plans, printers/ink/paper, accessories, or other unrelated electronics/products that the customer buys while in the store. This is why they may only have 5 of the doorbuster units on black friday. They get a ton of people in the store and only sell a very few products that they are loosing a lot of money on. In addition, these are often the lowest grade products out there so do yourself a favor and spend a more normal price and sleep in that day.

So, the person brings the laptop home that they got a great deal on and proceeds to crack the screen or spill a soda into the unit, frying the keyboard and motherboard. Major repairs, especially on laptops, often come close to or exceed the purchase price of the computer. When I quote the price of a screen or motherboard replacement, people often get mad due to the high price. The motherboard and screen are much like the engine in a car when it comes to the price as these are the two most costly components and very important to the proper functioning of the unit. The cost of the part plus the labor, which can be quite extensive depending on the model, are not inexpensive. So, you may get a used car for $1000 and quickly find out that replacing the engine or transmission can easily exceed this cost.

Don’t get upset with a shop for quoting a normal price. This is not a ripoff but I would suggest getting in with a local shop with a good reputation rather than a chain known for so-so work.

Conor

Its tough being new to an area, not knowing who to trust. Do try the mechanics files on this web site, a link is on the home page. Its only a guide though, also ask friends, neighbors and coworkers.

On automatic longevity: Like I said, I had about 300K on my Riviera and was driving all over Minnesota to my offices. Winter was coming on and didn’t feel comfortable with the transmission in northern Minnesota at 10 below so I had it overhauled as a preventative. I asked how it looked when they were done and he said the clutches were a little worn but didn’t look that bad. That was the original transmission and had never been touched before outside of fluid changes.