You wouldn’t think that ladder manufacturers would have to tell buyers to always use the ladder on stable ground, but they lost court cases because of it. Manufacturers must assume that buyers are morons or pay the price.
Congrats to @johnlump_191311 for being our 500th shopper, I mean poster on this thread, of the day… 
Dare I say 750 post, maybe even hit the 4 digit mark?? 
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Oh God no, make it stop !!! 
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And the original poster isn’t even here to enjoy the 500 milestone. 
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The OP, as I understand, is suspended. But, like Arnold, he’ll be back.
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Oh the irony!
Oh the shame!
Didn’t he know
It’s just a game!!!
Well, we could add “heavy plies” from a different thread.
If any of you want to get inside my brain (dangerous dingy dark flea market warehouse packed with used furniture and with missing floorboards that it is), that Caprice jt posted a photo of is how I perceive the wheel and tire proportions on most post-2010 model year passenger vehicles. And I’m being quite sincere about that.
I have referred to the 40-and-under-series low profile tires on 21-23" wheels as “superwide wagon wheels” from time to time! 
I’ve been reading this thread for what a year now and I think both sides are right. Really skinny tires and really wide tires are not the best. For me I prefer an aspect of 50 something.
I’d never want to go back to 70s.
But those 40s and 30s are equally ridiculous except for a track. I stopped using them because of potholes busting the rims. Of course bid city streets are full of potholes.
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My comfort zone is 60-65-series. My 1996 Ford Contour had 205-60R15s on it, and at door placard pressures (Front 31psi, Rear 34) handled quite competently, on wet, dry and frozen roads. Anything below 60-series I consider to be low-profile.
Pls delete - multiple sends
70’s still have there place, my 23 truck has 245/75R16’s on it, and I can hit the curves pretty fast and it is very stable, I still haven’t pushed it, but it handles as good as my 09 Vibe/Matrix with it’s 205/55R16’s…
I took a curve with one of my sons friends and he was very impressed, he said it felt like he was in his Acura or one of the Civics with low pros on it… Now would my truck handle the curves even faster with a larger low profile tire on it? sure, but it rides and handles very nicely as is…
Click on the 3 dots and you will see a trash can image, click on that you will delete your post.
The best way I can describe the steering feel of low-profile tires, even on my 2010 Accord 50-series 17s at spec pressure:
Light and very direct, requiring little physical exertion to turn the steering wheel. Almost twitchy! I take one hand off the steering wheel to adjust the A/C fan speed, and the car veers, albeit slightly, to one side of my lane, or the other.
I can easily whip this big car into an adjacent lane, at 55 or 65mph, much quicker than I feel is necessary for a sedate passenger sedan.
Affording the same maneuvers, years ago, in my 1981 Buick Century, bigger than the Eight-Gen Accord only by virtue of its squared off corners,
with 195-75R14 tires, I had to exert a little more muscle, as the taller, narrower profile tires would resist steering effort. more than would the 50R17s on the Honda. Being three inches lower than the Accord in height overall, sans power moonroof, probably lowered the Century’s metacenter a bit, lending to it’s relatively stable, on-center feel.
That build-up of weight in turns communicated better to me what the vehicle was doing, or what I was doing with it, than the relative lack of such heft on the 2010 Accord steering.
In the Century, with primitive steering wheel with no cruise or radio controls on it, I had to reach over to adjust radio volume or A/C fan speed, but the Century stayed planted in her lane.
Try kicking your toe out -0.02* total toe over your normal and see what happens…
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Uh… I don’t need do. Any car with a total toe out would probably almost ‘seek’ turns, lol!
Total toe spec on a 2005-2008 Corolla is between -0.20 and 0.20 making dead center 0.00 total toe, so I ran it -0.02 total toe..
The specs on a 2005-2010 Cobalt LS/LT is between 0.00 and 0.40, so dead center would be 0.20, I would run it 0.18 total toe, which is -0.02 off center…
I have done this on many customer cars with positive feed back after they complained about what you described…
Which runs counter to nearly every source I’ve read about front toe:
Positive (total toe-in) lends straightline stability
Negative (total toe-out) lends to more responsive steering, for those that need it.
I asked my shop to dial in 4 arc-minutes total toe-in (positive) on my 2010 Honda, and I felt myself having to correct the steering at hightway speeds a whole lot less than when total toe was zeroed.
I would agree trucks are a good exception!
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