Rack and pinion was leaking so I got a rebuilt one from Autozone. After removing the original I measured the tie rod end positions and marked the lock nuts to keep the alignment as close as possible. I laid the two racks next to each other and verified they were the same. They look the same and measured the same length!
After installing the new rack I connected the driver side tie rod first - it lined up very close to center, so I went to the passenger side and to my surprise, the tie rod was several inches short! I rechecked both tie rod measurements and found no problems.
The only thing I could think to do was unscrew both tie rod ends to give me the additional length I needed. Each end was originally screwed in an inch and half or so giving me 3 inches of slack. Even with that I could not get enough length to straighten the tires out. The driver’s side wheel was close to straight but the passenger side was turned right.
I decided to call it a day so I moved the car forward about 3 feet so I could close the garage door. When I went to the front of the car both the tires were pointed outward, a lot. Now I’m thinking there’s something wrong with the rack and pinion, maybe something is loose in there?
So I took it off and exchanged it for another one. Installed that one and again, the passenger side is way too short. I backed the tie rod out almost all the way just so I could connect it but the wheel is turned way to the right while the driver’s side is straight.
At this point I’m thinking there is a simple explanation but I just can’t think of it. Like one of those Brain Games that you just can’t see until someone points it out to you. So I’m hoping someone here can point out the obvious problem.
I didn’t remove anything on the hub assembly, just the tie rod ends. The new and original racks have the same dimensions, including the length of 39.25 inches inner tie rods end to end.
What am I missing here?
You already answered your own question. You tried to preserve the alignment by keeping the measurements the same…but you changed the measurements and thus the alignment. After the first unit was removed, one of the wheels must have gotten turned outward. It should have been turned inward as the way to get things connected.
I reset the tie rods to original measurements before installing the 2nd rack.
Maybe you have a rare Japanese version of a car that is slightly more narrow than the export version due to the Japanese vehicle tax laws. But you said it’s a Buick so that can’t be it.
But if you measured correctly you should have detected this. Did you make a mistake marking the position on the inner tie rod end threads to outer tie rod end?
Are you still comparing the new rack measurements to the one taken off? Has it changed in length after it was taken off? You have made some drastic changes in the settings left and right, so it isn’t a surprise that the car is out of alignment drastically. It is probably time to head to the alignment shop.
Update
The passenger side wheel assembly has moved. It moved forward about 3 inched and toed out. That explains the original shortage in length to attach the tie rod ends.
Now to find out what broke or moved. On initial inspection I couldn’t see the problem. Will have to start breaking it down until I find out what’s going on!
Congratulations on hanging in there to find the cause. I hope you don’t have a rust problem.
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The strut link or rod may have pushed through the frame sheet metal or the metal around the grommet may have given out. You may have to look at it from the top or remove some plastic to see the damage. If you see grommet, then three inches of strut rod and then the metal spacer/cup with a nut then the rear spacer/cup has failed and the rod has shoved its way into it. You mayhave to remove the nut then go to the control arm and unbolt the rod.
If your front end configuration has the full a frame control arm, you may have that rust problem that was mentioned or the car couldn’t take the stress of being jacked up. I’ll google your front suspension to see how wrong I may be. YES TOTALLY WRONG.
I should have googled it first. You may have a broken ball joint or something harder to identify.
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Sounds like either your lower control arm to the control arm bracket has come loose or the bushings are worn out… or maybe the upper control arms have come loose and the alignment shims have fallen out allowing the wheel to have the forward/backward movement… pretty easy to check just push/pull the wheel (while up in the air on stands) forward and backwards, may need someone to move the wheel or looking for you…
BTW if one side is doing it, you need to check the other side as well…
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Did your rack start leaking after an accident?
Now, you need a professional wheel alignment and you need to tell the technician that you replaced the rack… The technician may have to Re-center the rack and straighten up the steering wheel, and then align the front wheels…
Otherwise, the steering wheel turn from Lock to lock may not be the same. As you moved things around, you may have moved the rack off center and when you turn the wheel from one side to other, the pinion gear on the rack runs out of rack before the wheels turn all the way they should and when you turn the steering wheel the other way, the tire bumps into the wheel well before the rack runs out…
NO!!!
The OP needs to find out why the wheel moved forward about 3 inches, alignment, A) will be wrong and B) will not hold until the front end is tight…
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Solved
davesmopar was on the right track
There’s a bushing plate the lower control arm attaches to. To get at the steering rack there’s a skid plate that has to come off. Two of the bolts for that skid plate also hold one side of the bushing plate in place. I didn’t realize that and lowered the vehicle to the ground before replacing the skid plate. Since the two bolts that hold the lower control arm bushings in place were not there, the left side of the plate slide out 3 inches!
Thanks for everyone’s replies, much appreciated.
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