@oldtimer11 modern turbo are achieving excellent MPG #'s when driven normally. This includes Chevy Cruze and my wife has a high sprung Subaru Legacy turbo that is rated 17/23. She actually averaged 24.5MPG with it and drives at 65-80MPH on the highway. She is not light on boost but at same time not a nut in acceleration.
Idling (or turbo timers) are not needed unless motor is driven hard and then immediately shut off.
(yes I know I’m replying to something written over a year ago, but the thread’s been resurrected)
I agree entirely. The problem is that people drive their cars hard and then immediately shut them off. Cars that come with a turbo are, I would guess, actually more prone to being driven like this - those who install their own aftermarket turbos are more likely to learn about how not to abuse a turbo.
Since the advent of Chrysler’s TurboCharged 4 cylinder passenger vehicles in 1984 water-cooling has always been included. While it does aid in reducing the turbocharger’s operating temperatures bringing them closer to ambient it should never be relied upon to allow “Hot Shutdowns”. The engine should always be given enough time to cool down after spirited driving or when exiting the freeway. FULL Synthetic oil is a must for all turbocharged vehicles along with regular oil changes. We recommend Mobil 1 Full Synthetic oil because it’s the best we have found so far. It’s inexpensive when purchased at Walmart in the 5 quart containers (about $27.) DO NOT use Synthetic blends because they will not resist the heat exposure as Full Synthetic oil will.
As seen in the attached photographs coking can occur due to poor oil quality, extending oil changes and “Hot Shutdowns”. The needle sized bearing oil passageways can easily be blocked with the coking leading to imminent TurboCharger failure.
When replacing the TurboCharger ALWAYS replace the oil feed line. Over time layers of burnt oil will accumulate on the inside walls of your feed line slowly restricting flow. Shards of the burnt oil can also break free and travel down towards the bearing passageways blocking the flow of oil to important areas of the turbo. Risking an expensive TurboCharger failure in exchange for a $40. savings of not having to buy the feed line is a gamble you will lose. And don’t even try to clean out the original line as you will only loosen the debris on the inside walls allowing it to break free sooner once back in operation
I hope this information proves to be helpful.
You guys do know this thread is over a year old. The OP is probably long gone.