I have a pt cruiser 05 with 89k miles. Just had the ac fan and valve cover gaskets replaced along with gaskets around the plug wires. That was two weeks ago.
Yesterday, after running fine it took awhile to start. Like it was not getting gas. After it started the check engine light stayed on solid and it drove fine.
This morning when it drove a little while it lurched when accelerated like a delay between the petal press and the acceleration.
Shop says I need New timing belt and water pump. Car had never overheated and not leaking.
I assume you meant a new timing belt and water pump
If your timing belt had broken, the car wouldn’t start at all
Please post your fault codes, and we’ll try to help you
And please clarify which belt you need
I don’t have any fault codes. I’m going offs what they told my husband.
And yes, a new timing belt.
On the paper he wrote the lady told him. Cam seals, timing belt, crank shaft seals, water pump needed replacing.for 1475.00
Sorry, but you’ve been misinformed
If the check engine light was on, you definitely had fault codes
Just because the light isn’t lit, doesn’t mean much
It only means you don’t have codes which are commanding the light on
That is a parts list. Call the shop and tell them you want to know the cause of the driveability problem. It shouldn’t be to much trouble for them to explain their findings.
You are a bit past due for a timing belt replacement and water pump if that work was not done yet. But, this has NOTHING to do with your symptoms. The CEL being on means trouble codes are stored. If they did not pull codes, seek another shop.
I apologise. It wasn’t that there weren’t codes. I didn’t hear what they were if he was told.
I’m a skeptic and if it never overheated I doubt the water pump is at issue. Also these gaskets and seals don’t sound like something that could effect the gas feed problem. It felt like a misfire to me. Or like water in the system possibly.
My thoughts come from other things I’ve had to replace in the past and the symptoms they displayed.
The water pump is usually replaced as preventive maintenance when replacing the timing belt. I believe the timing belt is to be replaced @ 90,000 mile on this car.
The question should be is the timing belt the cause of the problem?
I agree. I don’t mind replacing the belt and pump. It’s about that time. But this is money I don’t have already.
And as you said, what if that has nothing to do with the problem. I may not be able to afford that repair on top of it. I’d rather know that the gas/ problem is cured them save for the pump and belt.
If that is not it. Just never had a timing belt cause lurch or misfire. Spark plugs and wires, sure. Bad gas , blockageor gas pump sure.
It might be a misfire, were the spark plug wires replaced when the valve cover gasket was replaced? The spark plug wires don’t last long on the vehicle, they should be replaced every 60,000 miles.
It sounds like they are offering you the 90,000 mile service on top of the needed repair.
Yes the spark plug wires are two weeks old too. They checked the plugs and said they were fine.
I think you are right. But I’m having to cash out some of my 401k just to pay for this so…yeah kinda frustrating. Since the repair two weeks ago was 1200.00
I am a little confused, in your original post, you said the check engine light came on and stayed on. That indicates that one or more trouble codes have been detected, however you say there were no codes. This is the trouble with getting the story third hand. ( mechanic, husband, you, us )
I know that on my 2004 PT the spark plugs were to be changed every 30,000 miles, the turbo models had iridium plugs good for 100,000 miles.
I was thinking the same thing.
You say the Check Engine light came on. Is the Check Engine light still on?
Tester
The problem could be related to the last repair (very likely) and they are going to correct their mistake but want to make the most out of this visit with the timing belt up sell.
You should go to the shop, look them in the eye and ask for answers. Did the timing belt slip or is due as a maintenance idem? What is the cause of the current problem?
If they caused problems with the last repair I wouldn’t allow them to replace the timing belt. You’ll want to find a different shop.
It’s Ok Old Timer11 I’m confused too. 
If I had talked to the mechanic. I would have asked for codes, asked what it had to do with the symptoms I had been having and if the water pump and belt could wait a few months.
Sadly I had to go to work today and couldn’t be there so he took it in.
After reading the suggestions I plan on calling first thing Monday morning to ask more questions before anything is started.
I’ve owned many cars in my life, and had to replace things ranging from the Master cylinder on my 74 Nova, to the Transmission and anything in between. Misfiring almost always meant I needed new plugs or wires or both. When it wouldn’t start right off yesterday I did the checklist. Do the lights and radio work? Yes, not the battery( and by default the alternator and belt), It is making a scraping noise and not catching? Nope not the Starter. Checked the radiator for overheat, nothing, oil was full, Yes, double checked that the gas tank wasn’t empty. Started without the foot on the gas to make sure it wasn’t flooding.
It just blew my mind that out of the blue after it ran fine that this happened.
Honestly thought that some teenagers might have sugared or watered the tank and figured I’d get a locking gas cap.
Nevada 545 I don’t want to believe they would do that, but I’m beginning to smell a rat. This is the dealership doing the last and current repairs. I had hoped that meant they would be more reputable.
I have a mechanic I have gone to for decades, they are always truthful and honest with me but they are a very small shop, only 3 bays, and everyone goes there, and it can take a week to do a repair like that. I can’t afford the time.
Most of my coworkers won’t admit they made a mistake.
Is the car still at the shop?
Mine either
Nevada! Yes. He left it there.
The timing belt may have jumped a tooth due to being wetted by oil weeping past the worn crank and cam seals. That would throw the valve timing off. Yours would not be the first engine to have that happen. That could easily cause your symptoms.
Question: do you know exactly what diagnostic tests he did? Did he use a vacuum gage?