So, I push my pedal in 1/16 (in park) and RPM goes up a little then acts like it wants to die. It is a 1994 K1500, I was just wondering what it could be, being old or another problem. It is a 350 TBI. Feedback is appreciated. Thank you
Thats not a problem unless there are other issues. It wasn’t designed to be revved in neutral or park. Do you have issues when it is being driven?
Shifting hard from 1-2 depending on how hard the acceleration is
If you are nailing the throttle, you want the shifts to be hard. Now if they are hard on light acceleration, then you may have a transmission problem, but the cure may not be justified by the cost.
Edit: you might try running a bottle or two of techron in your gas tank per directions. You might just have a little gum deposits in your fuel system that can cause both issues, if the hard shifting is at light throttle.
It seems that the harder I’m on the accelerator the harder it shifts. When it’s light acceleration you can barely notice it
This is the same person who posted they wanted to drop a gear and disappear. I think we have an operator malfunction.
A 1994 350ci TBI being aggressively revved in park?
A momentary stumble in a TBI (or especially carbed) engine is not abnormal when aggressively pushing the gas pedal from idle with no load. The aerated fuel takes a moment to get through the intake manifold, and meanwhile when the throttle plate is suddenly opened wide the throttle plate resistance normally inhibiting ingestion of air disappears and the engine gulps air. In that short moment between when the pedal is pushed and when the pulse of longer-pulsewidth meted fuel reaches the intake ports, there’s a momentary transient “leanout”. A “blip”, if you will. Unless there are other operating symptoms, I’d be inclined to accept it as normal.
Volvo may be right. I’ll assume you’re simply a young fellow in the early stages of the learning process and asking a lot of questions, and I’m always happy to help that process.
Yes I am 15 turning 16 in may haha. I know that vehicles are for A to B but sometimes when I do wanna have fun I don’t want to mess something up.
I think you should consider a full tune-up of sorts and go from there. Running a compression test would be a must in my opinion.
A slight misfire or stumble for whatever reason could cause something like this.
Since you’re just getting in the sometimes frustrating world of automotive mechanicals I might suggest this.
Buy a vacuum gauge and learn how to read it. It’s a good starting point in the diagnosis of problems.
Vacuum gauges are cheap, easy to use, and can reveal a lot about what is going on inside the engine. Main thing is to plug the gauge into a proper vacuum source; meaning manifold vacuum below the throttle plates.
The gauge set instruction sheet will tell you a bit about what various readings mean. Generally speaking, you want a gauge to read about 20" of vacuum at an idle with a rock steady needle.
FWIW, I’ve been involved in the mechanic world for a long time and still use a vacuum gauge. A few minutes hooking it up and it can lead you in the right direction or nail the problem down solid.
Thank you. It does need serviced, it sat for two years with one start up every 6 months until I turned 15 then I started driving it over the summer with my mom as much as I could, but that was rare as well. So I’m thinking oil change even though it just had one in November, spark plugs, air filter. My dad says why put money into it when it’s gonna fall apart, well, if I get it back to running like it’s champ days there should be no problem I think. Thank you for your help as well.