Plugs and wires

Hey all, i was recently told i need plugs and wires replaced on my car, but before i go to a mechanic i would like to get a little range of prices for the job at hand. Any one know how much a job like this is worth? Any help or estimates would be great. Thanks for the help!


Your going to want to add the make and year of vehicle.

i am not that mechanically inclined but im no fool either jus dont want to make any mistakes and screw something up!..and i forgot about the make and model sorry …2000 buick park ave. is it really that easy of a job? maybe if i had a wiring diagram or knew where my other 3 plugs are would help. I see three on the front of the engine, just cant tell where the other 3 lead behind the engine. I am willin to pay a mechanic, jus how much shuld i pay?? Dont want to get ripped off!!

It’ll probably be a couple-hundred bucks, but this will vary so much (shop to shop, region to region etc) that you’re better off just making a couple of phone calls. Replacing plugs on these isn’t easy which is one things that adds cost. Then, since its not easy, shops tend to go with things like longer life/more expensive spark plugs.

ok thanks cigroller…a cple hundred in labor and about a hundred in parts sounds pretty costly but if its gnna be taken care of right i guess i should take the leap of faith…umm i guess ill get back to you after the job is done or if a mechanic gives me a bunch of bs. thanks again!!!

Keep in mind - since I’m sure this goes back to your other post - that you might replace the plugs/wires to find out that the problem is elsewhere. The wire guess has to do with this being a wet weather problem.

A conservative approach would be to swap your number 3 (IIRC) plug wire with another one and find out if your misfire moves with the wire. You could still be looking at a coil problem instead.

A new set of plugs & wires is never a bad idea. But I generally like to verify a problem before I spend money on it. A good shop should be able to figure it out without any guessing involved.

Im thinking 200 in parts. Then add the labor. Assuming your going to do plugs, wires, cap n rotor

You may need plugs, especially if you have over 100k on the car, but wires, not so much. Plug wires are very reliable. I have seen them go well over 200k without a problem.

The longest lasting plugs would be the Iridium plugs at about $9 each at a parts store, probably $17 ea at the mechanics shop. OEM quality aftermarket wires about $40 at the parts store, $60 at the shop.

But really the first thing you need to do is have a mechanic verify that you need these. Are you getting a check engine light? Is the engine running rough, losing power, not getting the mileage it used to? Who told you that you need plugs and wires, a mechanic?

I all started here:…again#Item_26

The short story is a misfire when it rains and a P0303 code.

A misfire when it rains could be a wire, but it could also be the coil or simply that the sparkplug wire is not fully seated into the coil. It could also be in the primary wiring to the #3 coil although I believe that this each coil feeds two plugs on this model so there should be two codes of that is the case.

If you get the plugs replaced, get platinum tipped plugs. They are original equipment on your car, and will last the remaining life of the car. You can do the job, but you have to remove the torque struts on top of the engine, put a ratchet strap on it, and turn it forward as far as it will go. Don’t run the engine into the radiator. I found the plugs pretty easy to get out and the new ones easy to get in. My difficulty was pulling the plug wires off the spark plugs. Six platinum tipped AC Delco (OEM) plugs will cost about $50, and a plug wire puller around $10. If you need a ratchet set, add about $50 for a socket set from Sears. If you just want the minimum of tools, you need a 3/8" or 1/2" ratchet, a 3" extension bar, and a spark plug socket.

@jtsanders, are you talking about your silhouette van that you were recently asking about in another thread? If so, I’d be happy to get a report on the whole thing.

Well here’s my experience. I developed what seemed like an intermittent ignition miss in my G6. I went to the dealer due to some warranty issues. I was not surprised at the $120 diagnostic charge to tell me I had a bad #1 plug wire. I was a little surprised at the $347 quote in addition to put a set of wires on. I said even though its a huge PITA getting to the back, I’ll put the wires on myself. I ordered the AC Delco set for $65. I don’t deny them needing to get paid for their time, and it took me the better part of a slow day to put plugs in before, but anytime I can make $50-100 an hour tax free, by doing it myself, I’m inclined to do it.

Just depends on the car though. On my Rivieras, I could put plugs and wires on in an hour or so. On my Olds and G6 though, they are hard to get at and require removing the coil and other items. On my Acura I won’t even attempt it and will trade it first.

Since we are talking about spark plugs, I suggest checking the owner’s manual for the kind of plugs and wires you should be using.

For most drivers, the standard plugs and wires as called for in the owner’s manual, is the best choice. Brand names are almost meaningless. Don’t buy the cheapest thing you can find and don’t buy the fancy looking fat wires. They are designed to look good, but many if not all of them are not as good as the OEM wires.

cig, I pulled the engine forward last weekend and I could barely get to the bolts on the front of the coil pack. The coil pack was still under the windshield, and there is no way I could get to the back side to remove the oil pack from the engine. I’m going to try going in from underneath this weekend. It still runs fine, but at 120,000 miles it’s about due for new plugs.

I want to thank all of you for all of you input, it is greatly appreciated. I have recently changed my plugs and wires and havent had the problem since, but then again it hasnt rained again either!!! All in all it cost me about $60 in platinum spark plugs and wires and another 40 for the mechanic to swap em out. So I guess it turned out to be an ok fix… not too bad. I will keep in mind the coil problem in case this problem reoccurs, and other info on the issue is definitely helpful, i am relatively new here so i didnt think to keep all my info in 1 thread…DER! so heres the link to my original problem…again#Item_26 Once again thanks for the help!