I am planning a batch of repair and maintenance for a 1988 Chevrolet Nova (comparable to a Toyota Corolla) with 277000 miles on it. Since both of the first two items should be followed by alignment, I am preparing to do these with minimal driving in between.
Replace all struts
Replace all tires
Alignment (front and rear)
Two years ago, a known-good mechanic gave me this quote for the replacement of the struts:
parts: $530
labor: front 3.6 h + rear 2.9 h = 6.5 h @ $140/h = $910
total: $1440
They said that I might be able to find parts that are less expensive and bring them in for installation. While I am familiar in general with shopping for car parts, this seems like a fairly complicated batch of parts to try to gather for someone else to install. I am aware of some possible parts aside from the struts themselves: spring bushings, upper mounts, bumper stops, and assorted other rubber parts. I have read here about quick struts, but have not found them for this car model. Also I do not know what other parts would additionally be needed.
The main question is whether I should forget about trying to gather the right parts and instead assume that the mechanic needs to sort that out and I will pay whatever the resulting price is for parts.
That particular shop has had a change of ownership, so I will be checking around with them and others to have the work done.
You probably have a 4A series engine in this, most likely a 4AC 16L single OHC, 2 valves per cylinder. If the car has a “twin cam” decal on it, then It would probably have a 4AGE engine. If it is a twin cam, 16 valve engine but no decal, it could be the 4AFE. Anyway, the 4AC has a typical life of 300k miles with good maintenance. The 4AFE will last almost as long. If it is the 4AGE, I’m surprised it is still running.
I’d think hard about investing too much money into it.
I don’t think there are any quick struts for this and you will need new strut mounts as well. At this age, the only thing holding the two halves of the mount together is gravity. As soon as the bolts to the steering knuckle are removed, the whole strut and the bottom half of the mount will just fall out.
If you haven’t already, I’d not worry with that 2 year old quote anymore.
Do you need new tires? Are you going to keep this car for a while longer?
I’d go to another mechanic, maybe 2 of them, and let them give you quotes for all the labor and parts. Don’t worry about trying to “save” money and get the parts yourself.
That is essentially what I have in mind: three quotes, unfortunately all from mechanics who are new to me. Mainly I am trying to figure out if there is a reasonable way for me to do the shopping for parts. I have done so with more straightforward installations like distributors and a window, which has worked out well. But this repair appears more complicated in terms of parts.
Why have this expensive repair done? Because of long-term reliability of the car. It is running fine overall. The fact that the struts happen to need repair at age 38 years does not suggest that it is a flaky car. The previous notable repair was two and a half years earlier. Before that, a couple years earlier. Along the way there are the routine maintenance/repair items that any car requires, like the timing belt (every six years). And tires – every six years, including this year, even though the tires are in good condition with good treadwear.
I’ve driven cars up to 520,000 miles and never shunned doing repairs. But that was with sound engines. If Keith is correct, you might want to decide if it is worth it.
At any rate, unless you are doing the work yourself, just let the shop get the parts. They’ll get a better price and know what they need.
Sway bar links if not already on the parts list…
Here is the reason for keeping an old car running… you can spend $2,000 a year on it and that is only $167 a month, wayyy cheaper than any normal car payment, $4,000 a year is still $334, hard to find a new car that cheap still (down payment aside)… And the ins will be much cheaper than a new car…
If you like the car keep it until you can’t find parts for it… At the rate you are going you should have 4 years left in it anyway, who knows, maybe more…
I bought it for $3400 cash in 1994. Annual car registration is based on price. Lower registration fee for this.
Auto insurance: I have never had comprehensive or collision insurance, since the car is not worth much. Lower insurance costs.
Time- and money-saving feature: original Klingon cloaking technology. Car thieves and burglars do not notice it (usually). Saves on repairs and replacement of stolen stuff.
Even if you don’t have comprehensive for an older car, make sure you are covered up the ___ so that you aren’t in danger of losing your property in case of an accident
Beating a dead horse again but often the legal minimums are not sufficient. I had to raise mine when I worked for AAA. Then later in life went with the umbrella policy.