P0301 Error Code

They ran a compression test and indicated all is good. That means nothing to me without actual numbers. They should have those written down for you.
You would be surprised at how many people think bad numbers are good and even in many service manuals this erroneous information is actually printed for consumption.

In some Chilton’s manuals they will state 150 is good and that another cylinder with 115 is also good. No, it is not. A 150 is headed downhill and 115 is already at the bottom. The numbers should also be within roughly 10% of each other.

You say the car stalls. Does that mean at idle only or on the open road? The former could point to an Idle Air Control valve issue or vacuum leak. On the open road it could mean fuel pump, ignition switch, crank sensor, etc.

1 Like

The compression numbers were between 150-160 varying 5-10% between the four cylinders.

I expect when your 4-banger engine was new, compression probably in the 180’s. But 150’s measured after 200K miles, all about the same, that doesn’t seem an unexpected decrease, so a compression problem seems unlikely as the cause of the p0301.

Don’t recall what Toyota shop manual says about Corolla’s compression numbers, but Ford (in the spec for my truck) goes out of its way to not specify a number. Ford says if the readings are all within a 20 % range (IIRC), good enough, actual numbers don’t matter, compression is ok.

Cars before all the computers and gadgetry, common method to test the cylinders would be to disconnect one spark plug, and listen to how that affected the idling. When I did that on my early 60’s Ford I6, engine would have rough idle, but never would stall. So I wouldn’t guess even a complete 100% misfire in one cylinder, by itself, would cause the engine to stall. At least 2 cylinders would have to be misfiring for the engine to stall I think. One cylinder misfire would definitely be noticeable tho. So the stall is probably either the ignition system is preventing any sparks to any cylinders, or the exhaust system in plugged, faulty cat possible explanation. To test the faulty cat theory, you may be able to remove the pre-cat O2 sensor. That will allow the exhaust gasses to bypass the cat (making a loud noise), and if the exhaust system clog was the culprit, the engine would idle ok with the o2 sensor removed. Don’t drive car that way of course, too loud, and not a wide enough path created for exhaust gasses to escape at higher rpms.

Single cylinder misfires by reports here are often the result of a faulty coil, so your idea to just replace all the coils makes some sense. I presume you’ve already replaced all the spark plugs.

After doing some research, I took a chance and cleaned the throttle and MAF sensor. So far, there has not been a stall but will monitor it. Thanks everyone.

Good for you. Suggest to keep a watch for a blinking CEL as well.