I have posted previously about my car issues and just hoping for some more advice!
Long story short, my car (2013 kia rio, 125,000 miles) was throwing P0017 code and the dealership ended up replacing all the timing components (actuators, timing chain, and tensioners). Got the car back after 3 months, in late august and have only driven it a handful of times since then, but it seemed to run okay, no check engine light, until yesterday.
The car started up okay, got on the highway was going at a decent speed for 20 minutes and then traffic came to a stop, car started idling rough, and then the check engine light started flashing, I started making my way to the exit but traffic was completely blocked, but after about 30 seconds the light went off, I was still stuck in the middle of the highway and the engine was still idling rough. I finally got off the highway after a couple of minutes and made my way to the gas station, the car seemed fine at speed and the check engine light didn’t come back on. I turned the car off, got some food after an hour, turned it back on and drove home and the check engine light was off the whole time. The acceleration felt a bit weak though.
This is similar to what happened when my car started idling rough and then completely stalled at the beginning of the summer and why i ended it up taking it to the dealership orginally.
Any ideas why this is happening even after replacing all the timing components? The check engine light isn’t on so I don’t have any new codes.
Another weird thing is that the horn stopped working. I got the horn replaced at the beginning of the summer and it was fine. But its strange that a horn wears out in less than a year. I think there may be some kind of electrical problem because the doors on the right side won’t unlock/lock anymore either and the fuses have all been replaced. Not sure if this has anything to do with any of the other problems.
There might be codes. The CEL going off does not mean codes have been lost.
When seemingly unrelated seemingly electrical things go wrong, I wonder about accident damage or water damage. It can take some skill and some time with circuit diagrams to track down the possible common factors.
But do see if there are stored codes and post them here. Best of luck.
Since you presumably haven’t yet retrieved fault codes this time, we can’t yet be sure that P0017 has returned
But we DO know that you did indeed have a severe misfire, since that MIL was flashing . . . so you will have misfire fault codes stored, regardless of the fact that the MIL isn’t currently illuminated
You might want to inspect the wiring harness for visible damage. A lot of the harness leading to and from the Crank/Cam sensors is going to be exposed to hot exhaust and vibration.
As far as your horn it could be from a broken Clock spring. it is common on Kia’s from what I have read. usually, the air bag warning light would come on too. but there have been Kia owner’s that have had just the horn stop working with a bad Clock spring. just so you know there is a 15-year extended recall for Clock spring on your vehicle. but it said in the recall if the air bag light came on. so, I am not sure if it would be covered if the horn does not work with no air bag light on. but it does not hurt to ask…
Broken clockspring
The spiral cable or clockspring is a spiral-wound special rotary electrical connector in your Kia Rio which allows the steering wheel to turn while still making an electrical connection between the buttons on the steering wheel, including horn button, and the vehicle’s electrical systems. The clockspring is located between the steering wheel and the steering column. The clockspring contains delicate wires that can get damaged during servicing or due to overuse if the vehicle has put on too many miles.
If the clockspring is damaged in your Rio, you may see other system malfunctions as well. For example, the airbag warning light may illuminate in the instrument cluster, or other buttons on the steering wheel may stop working. But in rare cases, it is possible that only horn wire in the spiral gets damaged.
Oh they actually fixed this too while doing the timing stuff. I had the horn replaced before they fixed the clockspring and it was working. So im not sure why it stopped again. Ill try to look at the wiring harness, if I can find it lol
I didn’t re-read your prior thread, but from what you say today the first thing I’d do as a diy’er is read the diagnostic codes w/a scan tool. There’s three diagnostic code memory locations that all require inspection, “current”, “pending”, and “history”. No CEL doesn’t imply all three are empty.
I expect you already know that P0017 refers to a problem with the crankshaft/camshaft synchronization on the bank 1 exhaust camshaft. The crankshaft is at the bottom of the engine, and that camshaft is at the top, and the two are connected together by the timing chain. For the engine to run correctly, every time the crankshaft rotates exactly two full rotations the camshaft should rotate exactly one rotation. All the code is saying is that according to the electronic position sensors on both the crankshaft and camshaft, that’s not happening.
Given that the timing chain and other valve/crankshaft timing stuff has all been recently replaced, the next step is for your shop to find why the two shafts aren’t properly syncing. Is the problem the camshaft? The crankshaft? Or the sensors? Until that is known, not much else to do.
As a diy’er my first step would be to correct all the known electrical problems you noted above. And to verify the battery voltage is in spec when (1) the engine is turned off; (2) at idle; and (3) at higher than idle rpms. I’d also be looking for any unusual voltage spikes coming from the alternator using an o’scope. You car’s computer system is not able to make accurate measurements of the position sensors unless the electrical system is in perfect working order.
in 2019 I had the sensors replaced and my car didn’t stall again but the check engine light came back on shortly after, probably less than a year.
is it possible for my engine to be out of time for 5 years ?!?
I just had all the timing components replaced and the car stalled as i mentioned earlier , since I drove around with p0017 for so long could my engine just be destroyed beyond repair??
Well, if it was my problem I’d certainly look up how many miles I had logged since the timing repair- according to you, not many. So the elapsed time since the repair may be outside the warranty period for the work but most people expect a repair to last longer than X miles (and 4 months for that matter). Let them look at it and suggest a course of action. Maybe something related to their workmanship or a part that failed again… Be calm but firm- I expected this repair, at this significant cost to me, to resolve this issue for longer than 1000 miles and 4 months…
If only slightly, yes, such a thing is possible. We had a diy’er poster here a while who had been having difficult to diagnose engine performance problems for quite a while, which were later ID’d by a shop to a problem w/the crankshaft/camshaft timing. That poster replaced the timing belt, part of which involves resetting all the engine timing to spec, & this solved all the performance complaints straight away. If your engine is otherwise running ok, and the car is driven in a normal manner — not like a race car – a slight camshaft/crankshaft mistiming seems unlikely to cause much trouble. It might show up as a little hesitation during rapid acceleration, less power than expected when driving uphill, turn on the CEL, etc. Or in fact there may be no timing problem at all; i.e. the timing sensors may be reporting faulty info to the PCM.
