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Open up another can of worm

@irlandes : thanks for informing us you use Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil. This oil has more additives and would just about meet the European specs (Volkswagen, Mercedes, BMW). The 8000 miles between changes with this oil is indeed safe for most situations, as you found from the oil analysis.

The standard Mobil 1 is a great oil but I would not recommend 8000 miles unless it was mostly moderate highway driving.

I usually use Valvoline or Castrol dino oil, as those are frequently on salt at Walton’s. One thing I miss is the Super Tech oil filters that Wal Mart no longer has. I change oil & filter at 4,000-5,000 miles.

Oh boy, My dad used to use bulk oil from the farm store in his new cars but I kinda always cringed at that. So when I was a kid I used only Pennzoil. My BIL used to tell me to quit using that stuff. Though I changed oil regularly, every engine seemed to be sludged up with that stuff. After using it in my diesel and the rings gummed up, I quit using it even in the lawn mower. I switched to Rotella in the diesel and Mobil in everything else.

Now I only use Mobil or Valvoline in the lawn mower if I can’t get 30 wt. Mobil. On the Acura I’ll be using Mobil 1 since it calls for 0-20 oil. My engines have all been clean as a whistle since. I guess I just like sticking with a particular brand that can be trusted and don’t really care about the cost.

@Docnick I’m new to the Mobil 1 family. I didn’t know there was an extended performance and a standard Mobil 1. I noticed Mobil 1 at Walmart was $26 for 5 qts. and a 6 pack at the farm store was $35. I haven’t had to buy it yet but maybe that was the difference in price? So you recommend the extended performance?

I buy whatever is the most inexpensive at the time, whether it’s the store brand or something on sale.

@Bing ; If you have a new car, change oil at the interval the manufacturer wants you to. Otherwise you may void the warranty. Also use the eaxact spec of oil the manual calls for.

In case of the Mobil 1 Extended, that 8000 mile drain interval would apply only if your driving has sufficient highway miles to drive off sludge and condensation. If you live in Minnesota, park outside, do not have an engine block heater, and only drive 8000 miles a year, even the Mobil 1 Extended will not prevent your engine from sludging up.

Driving conditions vary greatly in the US and a normal mix of driving city and highway in the warmer parts of the country will allow 8000 miles interval with these premium oils.

As many others have said, we want to maximize ENGINE LIFE, rather than oil life and save a few dollars. Those posters who use department store oil and change frequently are also doing the right thing. In all cases meet the spec of oil the manual calls for.

My own philosophy on “extended life” oils, including full synthetics, is that I prefer ot stick with what I know until I see some actual evidence in the form of either empirical data or accelerated life testing from an independant lab that shows that extended life oils can actually do as good a job of prolonging the life of an engine as frequent oil changes with the manufacturer recommended oil.

I know from experience that frequent oil changes have enabled me to run engines for hundreds of thousands of miles without ever opening them up. In over 45 years of driving I’ve never worn an engine out. When I see data as described that satisfies my doubts about extending the time between oil changes, then I might reconsider. Note: data from a purveyor of “extended life” oils doesn;t count. It has to be a reputable third party for me to consider the data credible.

I’m not trying to get extended life out of the oil. Regardless of what I use I will still continue the 5000 mile 50% OLM routine. Just wondering if the extended life oil was the better to use or not.

@Bing I go along with your program. Most non-turbo new cars can use off the shelf oils and an oil change, if you do it yourself, is cheap. I would go to the 50% mark on the OLM and change then.

Import cars from Europe often have very long oil change intervals and specifiy very expensive oils. In such a case, I would use the oil specified and go to 50% of the stated interval. Last year in Europe (England) I rented a Vauxhall (made by GM’s Opel) car which had a 24,000 mile oil change interval, or 1 year. Even with the best oils I think this is insanely long.

Europeans don’t keep their cars very long; many are exported the Africa once the warranty is up.

Not for nothing but this thread proves that if you open a can of worms, the only way to contain them is get a larger can.
Is talking about oil in a thread started by someone that has never posted here that interesting?

I personally like SuperTech. I think its consistent low price.

I pay someone to change my oil who uses something called Amalie in my Acura. The OLM has it change every 6k miles.

I generally use Wal Mart oil and have for 20ish or so years with never a problem.
The Amalie oil that is mentioned is also fine and way back in the day I used that brand all of the time until it was no longer available in this area.

My motorcycles get Aeroshell; the aviation oil.

Mobil 1, without exception, for all the modern cars. I’ve used this in my race cars for 25 years. Engine rebuilds show how well this stuff works. My motorcycle and now the race car use Shell Rotella T6 diesel synthetic oil because it has zinc that the flat tappet cams need for lubrication. Zinc and sulfur compounds have been removed from the latest car oils due to issues with the emission controls. The older engines with sliding contact cam followers can’t tolerate the lack of zinc. Racing oils still have this stuff but Rotella is much cheaper.

OK, now I’m learning something regardless if its a can of worms or not. I wonder if I should be using the Briggs oil in my small engines instead due to the zinc issues. I’ve always just used standard oil in them. Its kinda pricey though and I take care of about 6 pieces of equipment with the cabin.

Oh yeah and Mobil 1 extended life is not available in a 0-20 weight at this point.

@Bing–I have used heavy detergent 30 weight in my lawnmower that I purchased in 1988. I use whatever oil is the cheapest on the shelf. I have used the Briggs and Stratton oil which came with a tune up kit that included an air filter and spark plug. I didn’t see any improved performance–my back was just as tired after mowing the yard with the Briggs and Stratton oil. However, I have found it less expensive to buy the air filter, a Champion CJ-8 spark plug and a whole quart of house brand heavy detergent 30 weight than to buy the tune-up kit. The Briggs and Stratton oil in the tune up kit isn’t even a full quart.

@Bing, any 30 weight lawnmower oil should be fine in your small engines.

Wow I am the only one loving Castrol? I imagine my superstitions are not verifiable, but Castrol and 89 mid grade is what I do. You all tell me it is wasted money, but I like to give treats to my pets. It makes me feel good, and sure only 140 k on this vehicle, but really?

@Barkydog–Castrol is good oil. My barber whom I have known since my elementary school days used nothing but Castrol in his vehicles and he drove each of them over 200,000 miles before trading for the next one. On the other hand, I ran my 1978 Oldsmobile 240,000 miles using whatever oil was on sale. When I sold the car last October the engine still ran well and used no oil. However, the oil didn’t keep the floor pan from rusting out.
On the cars I have owned since the 1978 Oldsmobile, I have used Valvoline. I stopped doing my own oil changes and my independent shop uses Valvoline as do the dealers where I bought the vehicles. I imagine I would just use whatever met the specifications for my car if I did go back to my own oil changes. I doubt that you have spent any significant amount of money on Castrol over another brand.
Some years back, before synthetic oils came on the scene, Consumer Reports tested motor oils and some of the brands tested had significant changes in the viscosity over the test period. However, none of the engines (New York City cabs were used in the test) had a failure due to the oil. My former department chair claimed that his car gave better mileage on 89 octane as opposed to 87 and that the cost difference was made up in the increased miles per gallon.
I think you should do what makes you feel good and if you feel it is prolonging the life of your car, do it. You aren’t telling others what to do, and the rest of us won’t tell you what to do.
As far as treats for your pets are concerned, I thought a woman was going to kill me years ago in the grocery store. I was dating my wife and I had a rescue dog at home. I picked up a bag of house brand dog food off the shelf and my future wife said, “Is that what you feed the dog?” “Yes”, I answered. “He is just a little cheap mutt that I got at the dog pound”. Another customer heard the exchange and she really reamed me out on being cruel to animals. The dog lived 15 years on that house brand food and I doubt that he would have lived a day longer had I fed him the most expensive food on the shelf. I hope I haven’t opened another can of worms on dog diets.

@Triedaq , thanks, I guess I remember if you treat them well, they will treat you well, but do not remember if it was cars, women, pets, or workers, trying to cover all bases. :slight_smile:

Hmm, I only used IAMS brand dog food. Even put some in the casket when I buried her. She was kind of sophisticated though and don’t think she would have gone for the cheap stuff.