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Oil leak around the dip stick area

I had an oil leak around the dip stick area but I don’t know what to do. The valve cover gasket was just replaced because I think it failed. What should I do right now?


It looks like the oil leak is from higher up, possibly from the VVT oil control valve just above the dipstick.


Is that cylinder the dipstick fits into really supposed to be standing up so high above the casting?

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I also noticed that. Has the dipstick guide come loose allowing slight oil drips off of the dipstick when checking the level to “escape”?

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If the dipstick is standing up too high, the amount of oil in the engine may also be too high. A lot.

I have no idea what happened as I didn’t see the oil coming out of the dip stick hole. Not sure if it’s the same as the surrounding area. 3 of 4 times the oil leaked from that area at temperature around 30 degree. The other time later today, when it was at 60 degree, everything was fine. I took it to Pep boys a few hours ago and they couldn’t find out either.

I find it interesting that the second picture shows oil on top of the plastic dip stick flange…

You have to check it for leaks when the engine is cold. Clean that area, start the engine after it has cooled completely and look for the leak.

You will probably see the oil squirting from the VVT solenoid but only when cold. I have seen the same thing with head gaskets and transmission solenoid packs, the leak a lot of oil when cold but seal up at operating temperature.


Good ideas above. Also make sure the rubber gasket where the dipstick fits into the hole remains in good condition. That part is usually on the dipstick ass’y. If the dipstick seems to have a force pushing it out, that could cause a little oil leak there too, and might be caused by a faulty pcv system.

Try cleaning that area thoroughly of all oil, then watch it daily. The time-lapse imaging might provide a better clue where the leak is coming from. The most common place I’ve had engine oil leaks is from a faulty valve cover gasket.

Bad news is that the temperature won’t get down to 30 degree in the following days. The only thing I can do is replace suggested parts. I don’t know how they they look like but this is the result google show me. Are they the right ones?

You need a real mechanic, not the guys from Pep Boys–or Midas, or Meineke, or Monro, or Sears, or–God forbid, AAMCO. Look for a well-reputed independent mechanic’s shop in your area, preferably one who specializes in Japanese marques.

I don’t know that. I always think that everyone working on car at the shop is certified mechanics

The shop told me that I need to replace the gasket of this part and they wanted $583 for the labor. Lol

There are 2 options: OEM and aftermarket. OEM should have the same quality with the one failed which may fail after 160k miles like my car has right now. Car are reported made cheaper and cheaper with less quality part. How do I know when I should go with OEM or aftermarket?

Also consider one from an auto recycler. It’s likely OEM, at a low price.

I can’t find it online. There is no gasket sold separately. The whole assembly costs $150 online and the local dealer wants $200. Will the used one work well?
Part #: 15810 R70 A04

If you can find a drawing of the gasket’s shape, you can make one yourself. Just need some gasket material and scissors. I’ve used cardboard from old Cheerios boxes in a pinch. Have you verified the bolts that are currently holding it on are torqued correctly?

can some high-strength RTV gasket maker be used here?

I also agree that it looks like something above the dipstick as leaking… You do not need to replace an entire assy just because of a bad O-ring or seal… Regardless of the assy we are discussing.

It sounds as if you are not going to be the one addressing this issue, so I also agree that you should steer WELL clear of the places you are currently seeking help.

You need to find a good independent who will address the actual issue you have and not suggest to replace the engine in order to repair this leak. This is not a major repair. An o-ring and or some sealant properly applied, should fix it. Find the shop that tells you similar.

I see some of the replacement gaskets available on Amazon and there are youtube videos on how to replace the assembly or gasket. Didn’t see the year, make, model info in your post so can’t check for exact fits… Does not look difficult…

An example-


My car is 09 Honda Accord sedan 3.5. Odyssey and Accord have many interchangeable parts but I don’t know which ones. I found some gaskets on Amazon for that part but I’m not sure if it’ll fit. Oreilly is the only local store that offers the gasket but it’s for the rear/right side.

While looking for the part, I found out that the model of this generation most have the same issue once the car reaches over 150k miles. Many things gonna break down but I try to minimize the cost by asking for help from you guys. Bringing to the shop is the last resort to confirm that it is the right issue. I know some shops with good mechanics but they just don’t care about the customers and no appointment. There was one time I saw a girl waited 3 hours for just an oil change!

There are some rubber pieces manufactured to make custom brackets at home. I can cut it out but the problem is that if they can stand high heat and pressure. It’ll be a hassle if the gasket fails again after a few months ( I drive a lot)

Amazon has a fitment guide. Enter your vehicle information at the top of the page and it’ll show if it fits or not. I haven’t run across a mistake in that assessment yet but have heard some people say they have. Personally, I’d take the risk. Worst case scenario, you have to put the spool valve assembly back on and exchange parts…