This a kind of a continuation of the engine on a pallet thread but that thread has drifted off to other things so I thought I would ask this in a new thread . I talked to the owner of that engine & he said it has been sitting at least 2 years . Can’t an oil fog thing be bought in a spray type can & should I remove the spark plugs & oil fog the cylinders before attempting to turn the engine at all .
On the surface this seems like a no brainer but the only stupid question is the one that didn’t get asked .
It Probably Wouldn’t Hurt, But I See The Real Value In Fogging When It’s Done Prior To The Engine Sitting For a A Couple Of Years To Help Prevent Corrosion.
CSA
A little oil in the cylinders before startup would not hurt.
When it’s time to start it I would suggest that you disable the electronics (remove fuel pump relay, etc) so the engine will not start.
Crank the engine over until the oil pressure light goes out and then a few additional seconds of cranking.
Enable the electronics and see what happens.
My boat guy recommends fogging through the carb, as you get everything fogged, not just the upper cylinders.
I urge you NOT to use the starter motor to crank it over. Starter motors have tons of torque and are not adjustable if there is resistance. Remove all plugs, inject some engine oil or ATF into each cylinder and wait for a bit for it to distribute itself. Then use a breaker bar and socket to manually turn over the engine. You’ll feel if the rings have rusted to the cylinder walls and can work them loose. The starter motor will just break the rings if they are rusted to the walls. Although it’s possible that the rings are fine, it’s also possible they are not. Depending on engine condition, climate in your area, how the engine was stored etc all play into it. It takes so little extra time to be cautious…why not?
I’m not stupid enough to recommend breaking an engine loose with the starter motor.
My assumption is that someone would verify the engine is not stuck before installing it.
The engine is sitting on a pallet . It is my thought that being a V6 that the cylinders aren’t vertical & if I put a little oil in the spark plug holes that the oil will run to the low side of the cylinders & not lubricate the entire piston tops , rings & cylinder walls .
It is my thought that fogging the cylinders should lubricate everything . I have never fogged an engine so maybe I’m making a false assumption . It is definitely my intention to attempt to turn the engine with a breaker bar & socket for the first attempt . If that doesn’t turn it I’m not buying it . That being said , if it turns ok with the bar & socket , it is my intention to turn it a few revolutions that way & then turn it with my drill to get oil circulated everywhere .
Does this sound like it will work ? As always all input is appreciated . The spark plugs will be out the entire time .
By the way I know the actual piston tops don’t need lubricated but the rings & cylinder walls all the way around do .
That should work.
If the motor is out of the car, just remove all the plugs. Squirt a little motor oil in each cylinder and turn the motor over by hand. A couple of revolutions is all you need to spread the oil around the cylinder walls and the rings. Then reinstall the plugs.
If you crank it over with the starter motor be prepared for oil flying out of the plug holes. It just can get messy.
Regular oil or fogging oil - either will work no big deal.
Step one. Remove the plugs and see if the engine will turn over freely with a breaker bar. If you can’t budge the engine at this point, WALK AWAY and save your $500…If you can turn it over, put about a tablespoon of oil in each cylinder, turn it over a few more times, install the plugs and do your compression test. Do not try to “free up” a stuck engine…If the rings have rusted to the cylinder walls, it’s just a big lump of scrap metal. Even if if you DID manage to free it up, the rusted rings and cylinders will quickly destroy themselves and the engine will burn a quart of oil every 50-100 miles…
I’m not stupid enough to recommend breaking an engine loose with the starter motor.
Nobody is suggesting you’re stupid or that you would make such a recommendation.
But you’re not the one doing the work, are you?
My assumption is that someone would verify the engine is not stuck before installing it.
You know what they say about assumptions.
In this case, the OP is smart enough to know better.
Unfortunately, that is often not the case on this board.
So it is sometimes worth the effort to clarify these details rather than assume…
Even if if you DID manage to free it up, the rusted rings and cylinders will quickly destroy themselves and the engine will burn a quart of oil every 50-100 miles…
I agree if the engine condition and history are completely unknown to you. I’d walk away if they were stuck under those conditions as well. Sometimes, it’s a matter of flash rusting in place especially if it hasn’t been that long. You can feel the amount of force needed to get them moving. Then it’s a judgement call. One of the reasons I like B’Laster PB so much. It creeps into the entire area around the rings so no spot is left dry. I’m down to just a few select motors on pallets in my garage. They get this treatment whenever one comes out of hibernation…