Oil Consumption Doubled in 30,000 miles?

Maintenance/Repairs
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2014 Acura TSX, 4 Cylinder, Automatic with about 150,000 miles on it.

Previous owner is a family member, and they always brought it to the dealer. Since I owned the car at around 95k or so, I have been following the maintenance indicator lights. The oil life goes off about every 7,000-8,000 miles

Until around 120,000 miles, I noticed I had consumed about a quart of oil. So I decided to go to a 5,000 mile oil change interval.

Started noticing oil consumption issues again at around 149k. I had gone about 3,000 miles and lost about a quart of oil.

So in about 30,000 miles I went from a quart every 7-8k miles to a quart every 3,000 miles.

I had noticed one leak at around 146k miles. There was a small leak on the check of metal that the oil filter mounts to, that mounts to the rest of the block. Replaced the two o-rings. No more leaks. When I checked to see how much oil I was consuming, I added some dye to help see if there were any more leaks I can’t visibly see. So far nothing that I can see.

What is a guy supposed to do? Should I just add in a quart every 2500 miles or so? Then do a complete drain and refill when ever the maintenance light comes on? I’m a bit concerned that this problem has more than doubled in the past 30,000 miles.

I did replace the PCV valve, and made sure it was working before putting it in.

Would an engine oil flush help? It would help remove any sludge/carbon build up/varnish, but I’m not sure if that’s a double edge sword? Where some of the carbon build up can actually be helping seal things up, and removing it would just make it worse?

Thanks for any tips or suggestions.

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You should add a quart of oil when it’s 1 quart low, whether that’s at 1,000 miles or 3,000 miles. Continue to change oil at your scheduled interval.

Oil is pretty cheap considering all things.

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A quart of oil every 3,000 miles isn’t bad for an engine with that may miles.

Some manufacturers consider a quart of oil consumption every 1,000 miles on their new cars being acceptable.

https://www.cars.com/articles/how-much-oil-consumption-is-normal-1420682864535

If it really bothers you of the oil consumption, adding this product to the oil will confirm if the cylinders/rings are worn out.

Tester

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Agree with the other posts.

Checking the oil regularly and keeping it topped off, as needed, is the easiest and cheapest way to keep the engine running.

Many people struggle with this concept. Many people get upset when they have to add any oil between oil changes. Which is a shame, since the engine can run out of oil in between oil changes.

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Yes, exactly that.

Burning a quart every 3K miles is not a problem. Change at 5K if you want or when the oil service minder lights. Just check.your oil level regularly and add as needed.

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As others have said on that amount of oil consumption not being a big deal if you stay on it.

I’m just chiming it to ask further about the PCV valve. I don’t know the specific set up for this engine, but it’s going to be more of a PCV “system” - as in the valve is only one part. That’s often attached to some manner of hose that goes from the valve to the intake manifold. IDK how hard it is on this set up, but it’s worth checking that the hose and intake side aren’t clogged up. In other words, you replaced the valve and apparently checked the new one for function somehow, but also check for good flow to the intake.

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Good grief . . . this is a “non-problem” as I see it

Every truck in our fleet with a Ford 6.8-liter V10 or GM 8.1-liter V8 absolutely guzzles engine oil

They all live a long and healthy life

Because we constantly check and top off engine oil as needed

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For crying out loud! You should just not add a quart on a schedule. You need to check the oil level once week until you have an idea of how much is being used . It seems those automotive classes that you took should have covered something that simple.

I check mine and add what ever is needed to return to the full mark even if it only part of the quart container.

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Could be worn valve guides and deteriorated rubber guide caps. If its easy to get at, might be worth taking a look.

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Thanks all for the replies and tips. So the Engine Restore product, is this like a detergent? So a fuel or oil additive to help remove carbon build up, might actually be a good idea? Carbon could be making the piston rings stick?

I got some pictures:
Piston 1

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Piston 2

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Piston 3

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Piston 4

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So there’s a lot of carbon build up on Piston 1 and 4, compared to 2 and 3. There’s even some discoloration (brown stuff) on piston 1? Any idea what this brown stuff could be? Maybe coolant (yikes)? I think this car has aluminum pistons, so I don’t think it would be rust.

My eyesight is not the best for getting oil mark readings on a dip stick. I’d be best pulling the stick out, wiping it off and leaving it out, and putting a piece of tape or something over the hole. Letting it sit over night. Then attempt to take a reading.

Since I’m burning a quart every 3000 miles, and it’s not going to magically get better if I don’t do anything to address it, will likely only get worse? So I could probably reliably add a quart on schedule every so many miles if I wanted? This car calls for 4.2 quarts
1 Quart = 3000 miles
26.56 ounces = 2500 miles
Should be ok adding a quart every 2500 miles? Would be 5.5 ounces overfull, assuming it doesn’t get worse.
If I do an oil flush, or fuel additive, and it improves compression, then maybe oil consumption will go down, and I should take a measurement before adding oil, just in case it improves oil consumption, I think?
I could even do compression test, to quantify the compression numerically, then do fuel additives to help remove carbon build up in the combustion chamber and top of pistons 1 and 4, and maybe even do an oil flush. Then do a compression test again and see if it improves compression.

Thanks for all of the tips!

I should probably mention that I have never gotten the “milkshake of death” when doing an oil change.

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It won’t get better. But this is NOT a problem, it is normal. The plugs all look pretty good, piston tops, too. There is nothing to address. If you insist on trying SOMEthing, use Restore. Read the instructions, it is added to the crankcase.

This calls for checking the level periodically and adding oil when the dipstick reaches the min mark whenever that may be. And it may vary…3000 miles, 3250, 2700, whatever.

The add needed will likely will not be a fixed amount of ounces. Add as needed to get the dipstick to the max line. How much is that? You will learn that for yourself. Add 1/4 of a quart. Let it settle, read the dipstick again. If it is halfway there, add another 1/4 of a quart. Let it settle, read the dipstick again. The next time it hits the min, add 1/2 a quart.

This is not rocket science…

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For crying out loud this has been answered more than once . Just check the oil level once a week before starting the vehicle. and add what ever amount it takes to reach the full level . It should only take about 5 minutes after you add oil to be able to get a good reading. Letting it set all night is silly.

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The optical lens is too close to the piston in pictures 1 and 4, the only thing visible is the small circle located in the center of the piston top. Take new pictures or better yet; close the investigation.

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Or a half quart every 1500 miles, or 2/3 of a quart every 2000 miles, the possibilities are endless.

Removing carbon from the combustion chamber should reduce compression but I don’t think you will see a measurable difference.

That is something that could occur after a catastrophic overheating event, not the same topic of discussion.

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