What does everybody think of oil additives? My shop likes to use this stuff. They say it cleans the crankshaft. Also obviously not to use until your car’s past warranty. I have a 2002 BMW 330Ci. It doesn’t burn much oil but then again I don’t drive it that much either. Car Repair for Dummies says never use additives. Kinda makes me think of in the plant world, if you ask 10 different plant guys the same question, you get 10 different answers. Ask 10 different politicians the same question, you get 20 different answers.
I never use any, no need as long as you’re using the correct oil specified for your 330Ci. And all carmakers agree, I’m pretty sure. Is there an additive recommended in your owners manual?
Some shops push additives for their high profit margins.
“It cleans the crankshaft” - what? I’ve never heard of ‘dirty crankshafts’ on a well-maintained engine!
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I don’t use them. Last time was 1968. I use regular oil or synthetic but more frequent changes. I’ve gotten 200,000, 300,000, 500,000 etc. on my engines without additives. BMW appears to be fussy about their oil more than others though.
@texases Yea my shop also over filled my oil by a half quart one time. Really miffed me, but some guy on cartalk.com a while ago said my car could take it so no big deal.
@bing I’m hoping to get 250. Shoud last me the rest of my life 
Why does a crankshaft need to be “cleaned”? It’s in a sealed environment soaked in engine oil all the time.
Sometimes I wish folks would just apply a little common sense in these situations….
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That’s why I’m here… because I don’t know enough to make a sound judgment myself. But what if you have milkshake oil or you’ve been mixing brands or types thereby producing sludge?
If you have “milkshake oil”…the coolant has been leaking into your oil for a while now. Serious damage has likely already occurred.
Mixing oil brands is no longer an issue. Sludge results from not changing your oil on a regular basis, and/or using “extended” change intervals.
An oil additive is not going to do you any good.
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K thx. Just got my oil change today. Go 250k!
The link discusses how motor oil is made and the last paragraph talks about additives put in during the manufacturing process. These additives are useful. Other additives like Seafoam and Lucas haven’t been shown to help, as stated at the end of the article.
Snake-oil.
Addititives might be useful if you’re trying to solve a problem. But as long as you do proper maintenance then they are pretty much useless.
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Unless you have an old (70’s and older) engine still running a flat tappet camshaft (with heavy valve springs) that requires a Zinc oil additive, you don’t need oil additives… I think all modern day (standard) engines are all running roller cams that do not require a Zinc oil additive…
If you need other additives then you already have some kind of engine trouble and that is for a different topic… Unless the manufacture requires using it…
This is the Zinc additive I run in my fun car…
The only other oil additive I have ever used is Marvel Mystery Oil and it was to help de-sludge customer engines that have NOT been maintained properly (oil changes)…
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@jtsanders excellent thx will read.
@MikeInNH Where can I find this snake oil? What stores sell it? 
@davesmopar what kinda car do you have?
I am assuming you are asking about my fun car, it is a 76 Plymouth Volare Road Runner, nothing is stock on it…
My DD is a 23 Tacoma SR5, and I have a few more vehicles in the fleet…
I’m certainly not trying to shill for one product or another, but as far as trying to free up sludged VVT components in engines that have been neglected, I have had better results with BG’s EPR than anything else.
Of course the best thing is to not let the engine get that sludged up in the first place. Remember, the most expensive oil change is the one you don’t do.
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Didn’t RiverofWind just post a question about the best oil filter for a 2002 BMW?
Assuming the best intentions it’s simple
- Perform oil changes at the manufacturers recommended intervals.
- With the recommended oil viscosity.
- With oil that meets the manufactures standards but on a 2002, consider upgrading to a synthetic.
- With a top line filter from a top line manufacturer. Mann, Wix, Bosche, etc.
- And if you don’t have the ability to DIY to the highest standards, only use the services of a competent professional mechanic.
Anything beyond that is simply throwing money away and if your engine is already producing “milk shake”, save your money because your engine is probably already worn/damaged and on a 2002 BMW you’re probably looking at big bucks for an engine overhaul/rebuild.
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K Thanks. Was just curious what the consensus about oil additives was. I take good care of my baby.
A somewhat unrelated question though - I forgot to tell the oil guys I had two o-rings I purchased along with the filter from Pelican Parts. They therefore only replaced one o-ring. I can get by another year without replacing the other o-ring right? I pulled the same mistake last year as well so one of the currently installed o-rings could be 2+ years old.
@davesmopar Neat car, not familiar with that guy it’s a little older than me.
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I change oil at 5000 miles. I don’t care what the marketing folks say. I would never go 7000 or 10,000 miles. Oil is cheap and the manufacturer is not going to buy me a new engine. Same thing for transmissions. 30,000 miles.
I read with amusement on briggs no change engines for example. They expect to replace them in three years, not ten. In the current environment you have to watch out fir yourself and not believe everything in the manuals.
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Identical oil filter media is frequently used on a variety of engines BUT what can differ is the design of the filter mounting fixture and the number of O-Rings required.
As Nevada commented, manufacturers provide the maximum number of O-Rings with the filters so on my vehicle they include 5 O-Rings but the fixture only requires 4, one goes in the trash..