I have a 2009 Honda Odyssey with 200,184 miles. Recently had the piston rings re-done. The problem with the transmission error started when the rings were bad (drove for about a month before getting repaired), but it’s continued still. If I use the cruise control on a highway, after a while the Check Transmission error flashes and the “D” showing I’m in Drive flashes. Otherwise, it drives great, and no problems when I drive without cruise control. (error light goes off when I turn off the car, and as long as I don’t drive with cruise control, it doesn’t come back on)
Took it to the dealer, and they said it had thrown a P0741 code. They checked the trans fluid and saw no excessive debris. With only that check they said it needed a new transmission.
I’m wondering if possibly the cruise control is faulty and the cruise control module is sending bad data to the transmission which makes it error out? How much risk is in continuing to drive this as long as I don’t use cruise control?
This is very unlikely to be related to the engine problem or to the Cruise Control.
I strongly suggest that you have the transmission checked by an independent trans shop–NOT by a chain-run place like AAMCO, Cottman, Lee Myles or Mr. Transmission. Just don’t be surprised if they concur with the dealership. Honda Odysseys of that era were prone to trans problems, and most of them never made it very far past 110k miles before needing an overhaul.
If the indy shop tells you that you need a trans overhaul, they will undoubtedly be cheaper than the dealership.
What if the trans quits while you are on the expressway in the midst of 18 wheelers, or at a RR crossing, or in a sketchy neighborhood? Mechanical failures rarely take place in your own driveway or other convenient places.
p0741 is saying the torque converter isn’t synching 1 to 1 to the crankshaft when it should (generally at speeds 35 mph +). If that’s the only problem, one option might be to just ignore this problem… Your transmission will work like my truck’s, shifts ok, but no torque converter lock-up mode. You may suffer a little reduction in mpg. The software probably won’t allow you to use the cruise control though. Cruise control assumes everything is working at factory specs , manufacturer’s safety concerns requires CC must be turned off if that’s not the case.
If you need the CC function, replacing the transmission will do the trick, but I expect there may be a way to fix this problem and keep the transmission.
Suggest to try the forum search feature for more idea, search on “Odyssey torque converter lock” , or something similar.
Thanks. I suspect it is the torque converter. I can drive for a while, even with cruise control on, without the error popping up as long as it’s flat. If I drive with no CC, then I’m not seeing the error message at all, and it seems to drive perfectly fine.
I might have a local guy who was recommended to me, who specializes in Hondas and does do transmissions, check it out and see what he thinks. Appreciate the great advice!
If the TC lock is partially engaged and slipping, won’t you be damaging it by continuning to drive it like this? Replacing the solenoid might be a good place to start. If you watch the tachometer and give it a little throttle you can tell if the TC lock is working or not.
Welcome to the forum…
Since the OP has not been back on since Jul 29, '22, they will probably not respond… It would be much better to start your own thread with alll the vehicle info and all your symptoms…
Not if the intent is to query the original poster regarding their outcome. There is almost zero chance they will see it in a new post. However, unless they purposely turned off notifications, any response to this thread will generate an email notification which I think is default in this environment. Only a year later, maybe good chance they will still get it.
Some people have responded in the past even years later when prompted by the notification. So it has worked in the past although certainly not always It’s worth a try.
I agree with you that failing a response from the OP, the best approach then is to start a new topic with all of the details specific to the vehicle in question.
Good point(s), but all my Car Talk emails goes straight to my spam mail, I didn’t even know I was getting them for months until I randomly went to delete all my spam mail one day… lol
So I guess it would all depend on the OPs email…
It’s worth a try.