OBD-II Scanner CAN Ready Status Question

I purchased an Actron CP9140 basic handheld OBD-II code scanner when the check engine light came on in my 2002 Toyota Avalon. The unit indicated two codes, which were related to the left and right bank knock sensors. The car runs the same as before the CEL came on and a rabbit chewed some wires in the knock sensor, triggering the code. The code scanner allows me to erase the code, however the CEL reappears after a few days of light driving.

I read that a code is stored into memory and takes a certain period of miles to disappear from the not ready status and that if you take your car to get emissions tested, it will show a not ready status and the car won’t pass. Is this true? I read there are code scanners that show a “CAN Ready Status.” Do you think buying a code scanner with such a feature would help me so I will know when the system is “ready” that way I can plan my visit to the emissions test accordingly? Is a ready status only related to certain CEL codes or all CEL codes?

It’s nice to have a code scanner to erase the annoying CEL, but if it’s not truly erased to the state’s emissions test computer then that’s not good.

Without pulling out a textbook I can say that some states used to allow a certain number (and kind) of monitors to be in a “not ready” status. Why don’t you check what you are up against first?

Have you repaired the damage done by the rabbits???

In Georgia, you can pass with 2 monitors in “Not Ready” status. After you clear the codes you will need to take it on a long drive (sometimes 40 miles or more) for enough monitors to read ready. But the most important thing is like what Rod Knox said, fix the damage creating the check engine light.


When some trouble codes are set in the ECU and the trouble is cleared the CEL light will turn off immediately. Some codes will require a few driving cycles for the light to turn off after the trouble is fixed. I think there are also some codes that need to be reset manually if the trouble is fixed. As far as knock sensors go I think the light will turn off as soon as the trouble is fixed.

Whenever you reset the ECU there are also things called monitors that will be reset whenever a reset is done. I think most IM testing stations will require that at least a few monitiors be in the ready or set mode before a IM test can be performed. It varies between states. In order to set the monitors it requires some driving sequences to be done. There are some driving proceedures that allow the monitors to be set more quickly but the information on how to do that isn’t that easy to come by for most folks. My IM station gave me a list of proceedure to do after I kept failing the test because not enough monitiors were set. The battery had died so the ECU memory was gone and I had to start over.

You didn’t say that the repair was done. No repair and the code will come back. If you got a warning light, the monitor for that system was in ready status, completed the test and indicated that the problem is happening again. Are the codes the same? It takes two drive cycles to get that system into ready status.

WHAT CODE. Please tell us the specific code. There are three of them related to the knock sensor. You should be getting P0325, knock sensor circuit malfunction. If that is the one, the repair was not good enough and you have to buy a replacement for the damaged wire and not just patch in a new piece of wire, or just electrical tape it.

Prices for scanners are down at Sears, so a better one should be reasonably priced. The monitors will flash if they are not ready. Read the instructions thoroughly. If you change a component on the car, you must erase the codes before starting the engine. BECAUSE: The computer stores the parameters from the old part and could light the MIL if the new one is not performing exactly the same as the old part.

The trouble codes are P0325 and P0330 (left bank and right bank knock sensors). I have read that each sensor costs $200 and that it is a labor intensive job. There is a problem with rabbits in my neighborhood, however other neighbors who leave their cars out have not had their cars affected. Last year, a rabbit ate through the transmission hose in my 2000 Lexus LS400 and caused a transmission blowout on the road. No one in the HOA wants to do anything about it because they haven’t been personally affected. Spraying LIquid Fence underneath the car works for about a couple of days before they return. I’m thinking rabbits must like Toyota products LOL, so I’m reluctant to purchase another one. The cars that my neighbors park outside that have been unaffected include:
Subaru Forester
Acura MDX
Toyota 4Runner
Ford Focus
VW Bug
Buick Lucerne
Ford Taurus

I could spend $1000 to get the wire harness or whatever the rabbit chewed to get the knock sensors fixed but if it will happen again, then it’s not worth it, since the performance of the car is unaffected. Hence, why I asked if clearing these codes will trigger a not ready status and how much you have to drive the car before you can get into a ready status.

I live in a small townhouse complex and can pretty much see all my neighbors cars and the rabbits are everywhere but for some reason they pick on my car. I wonder if there is a list of rabbit proof cars out there.

The error codes you show state there is a problem with the wiring to them and not the sensors themselves so replacing the sensor would be a waste of time and money. You should be able to repair the problem in the wiring without having to replace the harness.

As for the rabbit problem perhaps placing some figures of owls near the car would help.