@George_San_Jose1 Im actually gonna have my mechanic check it out I’m just waiting on him cause he be busy a lot. I really don’t know anything about fixing cars. I would have to have mechanic check it honestly cause I can’t really do anything myself. Unless there is a video that shows how someone like me who knows nothing about cars can check this myself.
Hi so I had it changed but the check engine light is still on and I seen you might have to drive 50-100 miles for it to go away. Now I believe I drove at least 50 so far but still did not go away. So will I have to see if I’d it goes away after 100 miles of driving? And also I was told it’s my downstream that needed to be changed and when my mechanic did the work it was bad he showed me. But if the light doesn’t go off does this mean maybe my upstream is bad as well?
Why not go back to your mechanic and ask him?
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The normal thing is for the shop to clear the code after the repair. If it’s easy enough to ask the shop to do it, then go that route and see what happens. If it’s easier, though, any “big box” auto parts store will read and clear for free. (Except I think I once heard of states where they’re not allowed to clear - ?)
And it’s often not how many miles you’ve driven, but how many “drive cycles” - as in how many times the car starts. And the heater circuit is only relevant at cold start up - so I’d not be surprised if the computer clearing that code automatically upon repair was tied more to drive cycles than miles driven.
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Yeah I’ll ask him to see what he tells me thanks, I mean he did say I’d have yo drive for a little and Google said that too but yeah I’ll see what he says since the light is still on thanks
If the failure was corrected, the check engine light could be off by the third day (after two good trips completed). How long ago was the repair completed?
My guess, the problem is fixed and the check engine light will go off eventually, sooner rather than later probably. Options for the pesky warning light are
- wait, hope it turns off
- ask shop to turn it off w/the scan tool, and take it back to shop if it turns back on
- ask shop to measure the pre-cat & post cat O2 sensor signals with their scan tool to verify both sensors are behaving correctly. (This is a standard test, used to determine if the cat is working or not.)
One heads-up, if the warning light is turned off using a scan tool, while it will turn off the check engine light, it will also place at least one emission system’s readiness monitors into the “not-ready” state, and may prevent the car from passing an emissions test.
It’s been over a week close to 2 weeks I believe
Read the codes again, could be a different/new code number.
Reread George’s post.
That’s the thing I had the car scanned at AutoZone and then I had my personal mechanic change the piece so I’d have to talk to him. There is no shop to take it back to. But I think I’m gonna buy on OBD2 reader myself today and I’m gonna see if I get the same code
You don’t seem to understand that a code doesn’t necessarily mean to replace the sensor. If you feel sick and your thermometer reads 101, do you replace your thermometer? You need to follow the diagnostic procedure for the code to determine what’s actually wrong.
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Why not use a real shop that has the diagnostic tools and equipment to properly fix your car?
A proper diagnosis will render a correct repair, a legitimate shop will usually warrant their work.
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