Even if the assumption is made that the engine is not seized or hydrolocked then odds are that engine is a goner anyway. Severe overheating can turn an otherwise solid engine into an oil burning chunk of scrap iron.
If the starter motor makes a heavy clunk sound when the key is turned then it sounds like seized or hydrolocked is the case. One is as bad as the other.
An O2 sensor is the least of your concerns and no money should be expended until seized/hydrolocked is verified beyond all doubt.
âthought it would be OK to drive home and worry about it the next day.â seldom ever works out well as that often turns a minor problem into a major one.
It is in the middle of the largest pulley on your motor.
your starter should at least get a click even if your motor is seized. check to see if your battery needs to be charged up.
but unfortunately, I believe your motor is probably done for.
A 300 c is rwd or awd and motor is north/south. A 300m Is fwd but motor is also north/south. Donât think a 300m ever had a 2.7 ugh. Chrysler had a thing for that layout. Though the minivans had transverse motors. So, the crank bolt is front/center, not âleftâ.
I am actually amazed that a Chrysler 2.7L engine made it to 150k miles. This engine was absolute garbage, and I remember seeing many of these vehicles go to the junkyard with less than 100k miles because the engine failed. The same model cars, when equipped with the 4-cylinder engine were rock-solid reliable, and remain on the road to this day.
That is correct. I am talking mainly about models such as the Stratus and Sebring, which were available with the rock-solid 2.4L 4-cylinder. I canât remember ever seeing one in the junkyard with this engine, without major body damage. I saw lots of them with the 2.7L and the body was in excellent conditionâŠwhich means the car was junked due to mechanical problems.
For heaven sake, if you donât even know which is the crankshaft pulley or how to turn the engine by hand, you are not going to be doing the work yourself. Just tow the thing to a shop and quit playing guessing games.
If you are able to turn the crankshaft by hand using a socket/ratchet on the crankshaft bolt, then a properly working starter motor should be able to do that too. Provided your manual-engine-rotation test was done correctly, at this point it appears the starter motor or the circuitry that controls it into operation with key in âstartâ has some sort of problem. If I had that problem myself Iâd measure the voltages at the two starter motor connections with a volt meter. With the key âoffâ, the thick wire should measure about 12.6 volts. The thin wire, zero volts. With the key in âstartâ, the thin wire should measure at least 10.5 volts. Thatâs what signals the starter motor to engage and crank the engine.
As mentioned above, given you are a newbie to diyer auto repair, suggest to get some help from someone experienced to help you resolve this problem. Starter motors are extremely high powered motors. Specâd in the KW of power they produce. Not something to mess with in other words. Years ago I had a friend whoâs car caught fire while it was parked on the street in front of her apartment due to a starter motor problem. Fire engines required to put it out. Fire damaged another car nearby as well.
But the op said there was a pile of blue smoke out the back not white. So that kinda tells me something significant happened like maybe look for a rod poking out the side of the engine. Giving me shivers equating it to a leg fracture.
