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New high output alternator issuse for 2007 camry 3.5l

Hello everyone I’m new to this site an soI was hoping to get some input on a little dilemma, I have a 07 camry 3.5l with an after market sound system as follows VM Audio SRCAP4.5 Car 4.5 Farad Digital Top Capacitor
Maxxlink VDC1.5V1 Red 1.5 Farad Digital Top Capacitor
Power Acoustik GT1-1600 750w RMS Mono Amplifier
GOLD AMP-5029 XPLORE 2000W 6-CH Power Output @ 4-Ohm: 300 W (4CH) + 230 W (2CH)
Pioneer TS-A6964R 3-Way 6" x 9" 40w rms each
PIONEER TS-B350PRO tweeter 100w rms each
Alpine Type-S SWS-12D4 12" 500 Watt rms Subwoofer + Vented Sub Enclosure
I powering about 1280 watts rms from amps.
I killed my 100 amp alternator, an now got 250 amp alternator but not sure about the fuses and or fusible link, wondering what all I need? and if the new 250 amp alternator is more than enough to power future upgraded systems? Please assist any input is greatly appreciated

250 amps should be enough to power your house! You can’t get much higher than that. However, the factory wire harness for that 100 amp alternator will not support the 250 amps that new alternator can produce. You will need to rewire it. The easiest way is to pull the high amp fuse for the alternator, tape off the existing high amp line to the alternator, and run a new wire from the new alternator straight to the battery with an inline high amp fuse. I would use a minimum 6 ga. wire and at least a 250 amp inline fuse. The existing alternator charge line at the battery backfeeds to the main fuse block, so don’t disconnect it.

I’m curious as to how you have this setup wired into your car more than anything else. If you’re running power leads to the amps and so on from a factory fused or switched circuit then at some point I would expect the car is going to have failures of wire connectors, wiring, or possibly other electrical components all depending upon how it’s wired.

It needs to be wired directly from the battery and power routed through a relay; a heavy duty relay… :slight_smile:

I would talk to the people at a local audio shop, they would know.

You’re going to need a much larger wire than 6 ga. from the alternator to battery. You’re also going to have to install a larger ground wire back to the battery.

Before you proceed, I suggest you read this.


The alternator does not “push” extra current down to existing circuits, it allows extra current for the high drain (heavy loads) of the audio system. Tester has provided very good advice for the charging circuit and a very good link for more information.

The high output alternator and the suggestions by Tester are not enough however. You need to upgrade the charge path as he suggested, but you do not need to worry about any other fusing for the car.

Your high end audio shops have a battery terminal that allows multiple wires to be attached to them. Its a pretty good sized block and uses set screws to hold the wires into machined holes. You should go to a hardware store and get some electricians connector grease to fill the holes first before inserting the wires.

You need at least one for the + terminal, I’d recommend getting two of them.

You may also want to look at a separate distribution panel for the audio system. This will provide fusing that you need for the amps.

I would not rely on the cars body to provide ground. Instead run parallel copper wires for each amp, one + and one -. The _ wire will be grounded only at one end, the one closest to the battery. This will provide cleaner power and will reduce outside interference on the power lines.

If all your amps are located together, like in the trunk, you can run a single 1/0 cable pair from the battery terminals to the fused distribution block near the amps, then distribute with smaller wire pairs from there. You will need an additional single fuse block near the battery for the + 1/0 wire just for safety.

BTW, I also think you audio system is ridiculously overpowered and your speakers are not up to the task for this much power. You will need to seriously upgrade the speakers.

Some of the neighbors may have some constructive advice… :wink:

I presume you mean the total (including amplifier and power supply heat loss) requirement of your stereo system is 1280 watts, not just the total speaker rating. Maybe a some basic electricity calculations would help.

Power = Voltage * Amps

This means

Amps = Power/Voltage

In your case

Amps (to your stereo system) = 1280 watts/13.5 volts = 94 Amps

So you’ve got two design objectives.

  • Figure out a way to get an extra 94 Amps to/from the battery/alternator.

  • Figure out a way to get 94 amps to/from the stereo and battery.

If you do a Google search you can find the recommended wire size for those currents.

Yeah, the neighbors might not appreciate the loud tunes as much as you do

At least it shouldn’t be too costly for upgrading the car. Then you can save up for those hearing aides you’ll be needing.


BTW, I also think you audio system is ridiculously overpowered and your speakers are
not up to the task for this much power.

In a few years, your ears may let you know they weren’t up for the task either.

OP will need one of these soon

Are you sure there isn’t a 260 amp alternator out there somewhere @jessejames?

I just don’t understand it.
When I was much younger most of the music was on AM stations and we would hate the static distorting the sound…

Now they have such high quality speakers, amps, satellite radio, etc…
You over power it, in the small place like a car, and you are distorting it worse than the static ever could have.


I still listen to AM. They have the best music.

I’ve intentionally refrained from providing any information on this thread because I cannot in good conscience support what the OP is doing. Systems like this mean trouble for more than just the car. It’s a personal choice I’ve made.

This might be for one of those competitions where they crank it up and use a sound level meter inside.
No one sane stays in the car during the measurement.

Perhaps. But I have my doubts.