New car proper brake in what should you do?

So I just bought a brand new Toyota 86. I have had several new cars from different manufacturers. I have always followed manufacture recommended break in procedures espically for high proformance cars, and always had excellent results. I know cars no longer come with break in oil and the parts are all machined to higher tolerances than they use to be. But the dealer and manufacture both recommended the first oil change at 7500 miles. Brake in the engine under 4K rpm for first 1000 miles ect.

  1. If there is debrie and metal shavings in the engine and oil during break in? Why would you wait 7500 miles to get that out even with synethic oil. I think it’s just to save $ from the dealer.

  2. I have heard that some people say don’t brake in the car just. Drive it like you stole it cause it doesn’t matter the new technology and tolerances are so go it dose not effect the car.

So what is right if you want the most proformance and long life from your car?

My second part is my cars manufacture minamum Octane rating for gas is 93 octane. In Nevada we can only get 91. Because my car has an extream high compression that is why 93 is recommended over 91. I have been blending 91 and 100 to get 93. I have notice that 91 makes the car run rough an it under performs. With newer cars I know the ecu will retard the timing but I am under the impression that this will effect my cars engine life and performance in the future. Octane booster and other additives are crap I just want my car to last and preform well through out its life. What do you think?

I’m not quite sure if you are asking questions about the car’s brakes, or about “breaking-in” the engine, but–on the assumption that you are asking about breaking-in the engine–here is my recommendation, based on about 5 decades of car ownership and maintenance:

Ignore those 7,500 mile oil change intervals unless you always do highway driving in a temperate climate, with no dust.
(Translation: Nevada? I don’t recommend that you go 7,500 miles between oil changes unless you do ONLY highway driving, and unless you are careful to check your dipstick on a very regular basis.)

Instead, I would advise that you adhere to an oil change interval of…more or less…every 5,000 miles or every 6 months, whichever comes first.
Some people are obsessed with getting the most miles from a crankcase full of oil, and others are obsessed with getting the most number of miles from their engine, before it succumbs to excess wear.

I am in the latter category, and I would recommend that you should be too. In other words, you should be more focused on the life of your engine, rather than the life of your motor oil.

I would just do what the owner’s manual recommends. You’re overthinking this. Your engine was likely broken in at the factory, and there is nothing wrong with 7,500 mile oil changes on a car like this if you use the recommended oil. If you doubt that, I suggest you get a used oil analysis to confirm it when the oil gets changed.

Toyota has worked diligently and spent a lot of money to earn a reputation for long lasting vehicles, it’s not in their interest to mislead or lie to you about maintenance intervals.

There is no reason not to change oil and filter sooner than recommended . It will make you feel better. Other than keeping the RPM,s under 4000 for the first 1000 miles no other (break ) in is needed. You also have a time amount for oil changes.

Sorry I wasn’t clear. Proper break in of the engine. I want the most out of my cars life. I did the first oil change at 1000 miles. Nevada is an extreme environment. So I do every 6months not the miles for all factory service.

Ok you are good to go, drive on.

What about the gas? My car has the highest compression in any manufactured car at 12:5:1. Even the Honda S2k was 11:1:1 and my wife had 2 of those good cars. But it’s a 2 seater and the86 fits the family.

How many miles do you put on in 6 months? Does Toyota recommend a time interval and mileage, or do you have an oil life monitor that will tell you when to change the oil? If you have an OLM, many (all?) now monitor the engine and tell you when to change the oil based on operating parameters. It used to be based on mileage, and my 2005 Accord is that way. That was 12 years ago, and everyone might use parameter monitoring. We have parameter monitoring on the 2003 Silhouette (160,000 miles) and the 2009 Cobalt (45,000 miles) and there are no engine problems. You can be more conservative and change the oil any time you want, but I’ve found that GM OLMs work well. I imagine a technically competent company like Toyota executes their OLM well, too.

So this is the FR-S now?

At any rate, I am in a similar boat now with a new Veloster and have decided to change to oil at 1000 miles. Also, you have to go with the severe schedule in your manual which probably calls for an earlier change than the 7500. My Veloster turbo manual essentially makes it clear that we are all on a severe driving schedule!

The only new car I did not change the oil early was a Honda and there the manual was very particular on the factory oil having high Moly levels and that it was needed to stay in for 10K miles/one year or based on OLM to max to seal the engine well.

It’s not really a problem. I bought a 2016 Mustang GT last year, it got it’s first oil change at 5000 miles. Supposedly it was good for 10k miles, but that seemed a bit much to me for the first oil change.

I took it pretty easy for the first 1000 miles, I did vary may speed as much a practical, and I tried to not put too much of a load on the engine during the first 300 miles, after that I gradually was more aggressive with the accelerator.

"My second part is my cars manufacture minamum Octane rating for gas is 93 octane. "

Incorrect. 93 octane is recommended 91 octane is required if you look at page 58 or page 357 of your owner’s manual it states

“If unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 93 (98 RON) is not available,
unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 91 (95 RON) may be used with
no detriment to engine durability or driveability.”

I will double check today but 93 was minimum because Of the new engine upgraded internals and the additional horse power. For the 17s for 6speed only and new air intake as well for the 6speed. The auto trans dose not get the bump in Hp or air intake so 91 is the minimum for those.

The oil changes from the dealer is 7500 or 6months what ever comes first. My BMW was 10k or 1 year what ever comes first my performance Subaru’s were ever 5k or what ever comes first. My fords were as often as I could add oil or every 3k. The Honda S2k was every 5k or ever 6 months.

For the last 6 years all my vehicles out here in Neveda got nitrogen in the tires, K&n drop in filters and recommended oil changes from the dealers with the exception of my wrx because that was when synthetic just started coming about and it started with standard oil and I switched to Mobil 1 after 3k like the master tech told me when I was talking with him. Since most if not all car dealers and shops now use almost all synthetic oil.

It’s only 5 HP gain in HP,(vs.the automatic and previous years) and the compression ratio has been 12.5:1 since the car’s inception.

Correct but with the upgraded internals and hp gain is why they bumped up the octane in the Manuel from previous years. The big problem is my stupid state dose not offer 93 at the pump. What they fail to realize is higher octane burns more compleat and cleaner than Lower because it is compressed higher and actually burns cleaner and more compleatly and dose not have problems with premature burn. It’s just stupid.

I change my new car oil at 5000 miles when the oil monitor is at about 50%. I don’t care if they say you can leave it in longer or not. I’ve been happy but do what you want.

What does Manuel suggest?
If his suggestion is different from what is suggested in the vehicle manufacturer’s manual, then I would suggest that you ignore whatever Manuel tells you.

Exactly what is the dosage in your state?
Just make sure that you don’t take an overdose!

Since I’ve done the 1k change I paid for. All the rest of my oil changes are free and coverd by Toyota. So I will keep with the 6moths. After over 10 years out here I have never had a car burn oil with regular mantaince.

I asked my master tech at Subaru back in 15 about the block and potential of it keeping it n/a high rev. The block can handle over 500hp with f/I. I wanted to know if it would be stable if I increased the rpm to 8 or 9k and change to stiffer valve springs to get some more hp out of it. He said it would handel it with the variable valve timing. And it wouldn’t shorten the life as much. How long do you keep it at 9k he asked me and do you always keep it there all the time. I said no not even in the S2k that was designers around it. He said it would be fine. I want to stay away from f/I I love the high compression high rev.

I think if you went to a Subaru dealer and looked at the owners manual for the identical BRZ, it will recommend the first oil change at 3000 or 3750 miles, then the second at 7500 and 7500 after that. Use only the 0w20 synthetic oil.

I would drive it pretty easy the first couple of hundred miles, but vary the speed a lot and do not be afraid to give it plenty of gas at lower RPMs or shift early. The extra pressure in the pistons and rings actually helps it break in a little faster. Full throttle at 30mph in 4th gear to 60 mph actually will quickly seat the rings. I say 4th as that probably is your highest gear that is not an overdrive gear. You could do it in 5th or 6th if fourth revs past 3k at 60. In fact you should check the tach at 60 in 6th, 5th, and 4th and use the one closest to 3k without going over.

BTW, all the manufacturers are figuring out how increase teh compression ratios without requiring higher octane fuels.

Yea Keith that is actually what I did for the varying the revs and speed. I will look see what Subaru says. Since both are produced in gunna Japan. At the same Subaru plant.

Even with new engines I still believe that you get a tone of shavings and debris in the oil from the engine brakeing in and the oil filter gets plugged up quicker. That why I changed at 1k miles