Need New Transmission after Dealer changes Timing Belt

honda
timing-belts
accord
belts
transmissions

#1

I took my 1997 Honda Accord with 97,000 miles to the Honda dealer for a 90,000 mile service and changing of the timing belt. I also had them replace some gaskets, some other belts and the axles as they were not holding fluid. I spent $1800. When I got the car back the second time I drove it the check engine light came on and the car will not shift gears properly.



When I start the car cold, put it in drive and accelerate the engine revs for a few seconds before the gears will engage. This continues whenever I stop and accelerate. It also happens whenever the car is ready to switch to a higher gear. The engine revs past 3000 rpm and then will shift a second or two later.



The dealer says I need to spend another $2000 on a rebuilt transmission. The Bluebook on the car is only about $3000. I’m having difficulty evaluating the best course of action.



1. Junk the car?



2. Sell as is?



3. Repair and sell?



4. Repair and keep? What is the reliability of a rebuilt transmission?



5. Pay $100 plus towing to get a second opinion?



I’m interested in some alternate perspectives.


#2

WHOA…I have owned several Accords and just sold the car you are talking about albeit with an entirely different engine in it…but anyway.

On your vehicle I believe they used a separate transmission computer. Maybe they integrated it all into one, but I dont think so. They had to have your battery disconnected for some time to do your T-belt job…maybe it didnt like that…YOu could try to disconnect and reconnect the pos terminal on your batt to reset both computers…Just for giggles. This could be and electronic issue causing this problem…and I dont believe they did anything at the stealer to directly affect your transmission however. I’m thinking out loud here I guess…Im not helping am i…lol hmmm

YOu say that the engine revs a bit before you feel any power to the wheels? As though it were in neutral? I believe this could be a trans pump issue…maybe the tranny fluid somehow got air into the system…no… It seems like it is having a moment where the torque convertor is slipping…maybe its doing that on purpose…but Im not sure thats possible perhaps the torque convertor is having lockup issue…again Im guessing we need a diag run on that trans computer…It should tell us whats up…Is your D for drive on the dash blinking? This is HOndas was of saying that the trans computer has something to say.

That trans computer controls when your tranny shifts via the shift solenoids…and many other things

You should have an independent tranny shop do a diagnostic on it they can tell if it is an electronic item that is causing these symptoms…The Accord auto is NOT known for tranny issues.

I would get a diagnostic run on that trans it might be something silly. The Accord trans is pretty solid so a rebuilt one is a viable idea as long as it doesnt cost you too much…Again I have to remember that you are at the mercy of garages and mechanics… I wish I could open up a garage just to fix all of the peoples cars on this forum…ID BE RICH! and I wouldnt rip people off…hey thats not a bad idea…Hmmm got to work on that.


#3

If you’re taking a car with 97,000 miles on it in for a 90,000 mile service, and you didn’t know that your axles were shot, I’m probably not off base by guessing that you’ve never changed the transmission fluid.

As such, you’re lucky it lasted that long.

Because the rest of the car has probably deteriorated due to lack of maintenance, I would either sell it as is or junk it, and then buy another car and keep up with the required maintenance religiously.


#4

How is the fluid level??

transman


#5

Have that check engine code read. This could be as simple as a loose speed sensor wire. I am not confident at the shot transmission diagnosis, get a 2nd opinion.


#6

Change your fluid, find a guy that will replace the solenoid pack only (that will be hard) and have a nice day. You mentioned that the axles needed to be changed due to not holding fluid, you may have damaged it by driving it around leaking previously. It does sound electrical though, $300 vs 2000… HHHHMMMMMM…