Considering buying a 2010 Scion xb, 89,000 miles on it, or a 2007 Kia Sportage with 87, 000. I welcome any advice.
Do you want AWD?
Preferably, because I commute in northwest PA.
Have you even looked at these vehicles. I don’t know what you call ground clearance but these are not really that high off the ground.
The Xb isn’t going to have much in the way of ground clearance and isn’t going to have AWD either. The Subaru Forester or Outback will fit the bill. As would a Toyota Rav4 or Honda CR-V. The Ford Escape would also work as would Mazda CX5 and Nissan Rogue.
Whatever you decide on, pay about $100 to get a prepurchase inspection from a mechanic you trust. Don’t buy until the vehicle you want checks out. You don’t need a car that has expensive problems when you buy it.
Yes, indeed, I’ve already checked with my mechanic about his availability for this week. I fully realize that the mechanically and electronically deficient people like me need to do that.
True enough. Because of finances, I’m trying to downsize my wants from the love-of-my-life Mitsubishi Endeavor.
FoDaddy, I’ve looked at your suggestions and they are above my limited budget. Altho about 2003 I bought a used Forester than gave me nothing but grief, so I’m avoiding subaru. And, I dislike their slogan.
A persons financial position is none of my business. But if this Endeavor is serviceable I don’t see how buying a 7 or 10 year old vehicle will help.
Obviously you’re looking at used vehicles here. You shouldn’t have too much of a problem finding a used example of any of the vehicles I listed, they are all pretty common. Especially the RAV4, CR-V, and Escape. Or are you limiting your choices to what’s locally available?
@VOLVO_V70 has a point, if your Endeavor is still in good shape, then you’re really not gaining much by spending more money to go a somewhat newer smaller SUV. The Kia will get about 2 MPG better overall, which will save you about $200-$250 a year if you drive 15k a year. The Scion will yield a more impressive 7 MPG improvement over the Endeavor, but it has neither AWD or any ground clearance to speak of
Give us more information about your Mitsubishi. Year, mileage and condition. It may well be less expensive to keep it than buy a new to you SUV.
Some tips on getting the best price.
Consult Kelly Blue book for what the dealer actually pair for the used car.
Start by offering $300 over that price
Wait till end of month … dealers will be under more pressure to negotiate
I used those methods and got a used car for $2000 less than sticker price
I thought KBB gives a valuation. Is that what the dealer paid? And, yes, it did occur to me today that I’m shopping at exactly the wrong time of the month. Thanks. $2000 less than sticker is significant!
Only the dealer knows what they paid and KBB has very little to do with it because most dealers will use Black Book and have access to prices that are current. Time of month is almost an urban legend it really depends on sales volume and sales goals that can change day to day.
$2000.00 less that sticker ( if it is on the internet it must be true ).
JTS; 2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor, 197,000 miles. The first 150,000 miles I treated it like a forest service truck, and she still keeps going. BUT; summer 2015 I turned directly into the lower concrete part of a light pole (I have lost peripheral vision for above and below). Big dent in door, never fixed it due to finances, sometimes I have to pull up on the door a bit to close it. 3” hole in body near lr wheel well. Lrwindow stuck about 1/3 down. Have replaced only one timing belt in all those miles, so that’s another upcoming expense. Quite a bit of rust. A couple weeks ago a big BANG sound when I turned it on after work, and some exhaust smell, it now sounds like I made it loud on purpose when I accelerate. I commute 35 miles to work, rural northwest PA., so it’s time, I think for something that is not going to need to be rebuilt for inspection this summer. I think it’s time to let this tough old gal out to pasture (the vehicle, not me.)
Yes, I’m staying local. But I did discover yesterday that my rural small city’s used choices are not the best, because they get serious country road use out here, and most of the ones I saw yesterday have the towing thing on the back, which means there has probably been regular hauling of ATVs and who-knows-what-load strain on the engine. Tomorrow I drive to the city.
When using KBB, use the trade in value to get a close approximation of what a dealer would pay.
Time of the month usually makes a big difference. If there are selling lots of cars for the month,
they will negotiate less.
But with a car lot on practically every corner, the competition is fierce.
Obviously, the dealer has to make some profit.
In my case he made $300 over the approx. amt that he paid for the car.
The car was only by a single person with no kids and a non-smoker.
It has some key scratches on the hood, so it was a little harder to sell.
Engine was well taken care of.