Hey! I’ve got a 2017 Mitsubishi Lancer and I am installing new headlights. There is a Bluetooth controller connected to them to control the headlights via my phone. In order to power the Drl’s I need to fuse tap into a fuse slot that is only powered on by ignition or ACC. I also want to power the Bluetooth controller the same way so I don’t have to manually turn them off every time I turn off the car. The Bluetooth controller will draw about 10A and the Drl’s will draw about 15A.
- Which fuse slots are will be the best to tap into for what I need?
- What is the safe way to put in the fuses in the fuse tap? (Correct order, correct way to place them in, etc) I’ve heard and have been told many different ways of doing it
I would also like to avoid wiring through the firewall so if possible, I’d like to only use the fuse box under the hood and not the one in the dash
Find a fuse that is controlled by the IGN by checking with a voltmeter to see which is off with IGN off and on with IGN on. Choose one bigger than 10A, preferably 15A or 20A as it will give you a bit of cushion.
Use the fuse tap to re-fuse the original with the correct fuse and your Bluetooth adapter with 10A. BTW, I can’t imagine a Bluetooth adapter drawing 10A. I’d guess you could run the adapter with 2-3 amps max.
You want one that looks like this rated for 10A;
And if you don’t own a voltmeter, get one. Anything else is a guess.
Not to be judgemental… but I’m wondering why you’d want to control your headlights with your phone?
And I assume this car is still under warranty (2017 model)? Are you sure you want to be messing with the factory wiring?
Good point, that would void the warrantee for anything the dealer could point at the wiring as the source of a problem.
Put me down for also not seeing any reason to control headlights with a phone .
@Surprise …. At least check to see if you might void the warranty before you get a surprise.
Yep another one for just because you can doesn’t mean you should. At any rate, just pick a slot and put a test light on to see if its live all the time or goes off with the key, then wire up a new circuit.
This confuses me too!!!
While you are messing with the headlight controls on your phone…you run down a pedestrian.
If it were me, I’d be very antsy about pulling that much current through an existing fuse. High current always comes with a price; usually paid for with the failure of something else.
I’d want that current run through a relay that sources its power directly from a battery connection. If you can find a direct from the battery cable routed into the underhood fuse panel and unused then great. That would probably work.
My thoughts are, if you can’t figure out a fuse tap why would you even be messing with it.
Just a side note, I tapped into a 2 way radio power for a power point for a hand held spot light, and if the light was plugged in the gmc van would not turn off with the key.
Say you are looking for your car parked amid a thousand other cars in the same section of a stadium parking lot, airport parking lot, etc. Dial the number, the headlights flash on, done.
All I do is push the lock or unlock button on the key fob and the lights flash and the horn sounds. If I really can’t remember where I parked, I can hit the remote start button and the car will start and the parking lights will stay on. Only got ten minutes then to find it before it shuts off again.