I have a 2008 BMW 5 series. With V8 Engine. The Plastic Oil filter housing had a feline crack down the side. I started the car, it showed no Low oil pressure lights. Car idled fine, I left for work about 6 seconds later WHAM lights come on, car starts jerking back and forth. And I hear tapping noises. I pull over and it just died. I was still right near house at this moment, so I got the car towed up to the drive way. Now mind you this oil had been changed and fine for over a month. I’m at my wits end trying to figure out how this happend, surely it would have gave some warning before hand? Then all of a sudden the entire thing cracks? The motor is not seized. It’s still trying to crank, but it won’t turn over? It cranks and cranks and cranks. And then that’s it. It acts like it wants to jump and start but it doesn’t. What could be some root causes here? Could this sudden loss of pressure escaping the engine cause the timing to jump? Or worse? It wasn’t until I got the car home and got a better look under the root cause when I pull the Oil filter housing off and, seen the small crack. But the Pressure it was coming out that crack was insane…
If the oil housing has a crack the engine is going to lose oil very quickly at higher RPM’s. And if that happens there’s no oil pressure. No oil pressure and the timing chain tensioners no longer keep tension on the timing chains.
What’s the damage? I don’t know.
Tester
Did you buy a new oil filter housing? Maybe BMW offers a filter housing for an M-car that fits your 550. My guess is that it’s metal.
Yes I purchased a New Oil Filter Housing. Unfortunately they are a firm plastic not metal. It screws over the filter into the housing. I re filled the car, checked the I-drive for Oil Level which indicated it to be fine and normal 8.5 qrts. But the car just isn’t having it. It just cranks and cranks. But won’t turn over to run
You will have no success at fixing the engine by changing an oil filter housing. It has to go to the shop.
It did go to a shop. It sat for 3 months. I asked for a leak down test. And to run ista on the dme. My BMW mechanic called back said he “thinks” I need a new motor. Or it could “possibly” be the timing. So 200 dollars later of tow bills and also the tow driver destroying one of my rims. im back in the same boat, because mechanics don’t wanna do what they are asked around my area. Which is why I am here. And, I’m not lying when I tell you it sat for 3 months, just to get a leak down test that never got done… I know a oil filter isn’t gonna fix the issue. I’ve ran multimeter on camshaft sensors and crankshaft sensors as well, checked vanos selanoids. All checked out fine.
Your car has “valvetronic” variable valve lift, you need someone used to these engines to remove the cam covers( including the two electric motors for the valves) the top timing covers- check the timing withe the vanos camshaft hubs locked not still in operating mode. Check all the intermediate levers on the inlet cams are still in place ( they can jump out with timing/ oil pressure issues).
DO NOT CRANK IT OVER there’s a casting around the outer run of the cam chain in the lower case, if there’s any slack at all it can kink the chain and wreck the crank case/ crank hub.
If you’ve not drained the oil yet I’d do this first and either see your self or have it tested in case it’s run the bearings.
I’m a master tech at Bm and these need someone who knows what they’re doing
I suspect you have low . . . or NO . . . compression at the moment
Has anybody bothered confirming this yet?
Bmw tech says do not crank motor. Hard to do compression test.
Thank you alot my guy! This is what I needed. 100%
I took it to my local BMW shop. They are an Indy shop. I asked for a leak down test, to check if there is any blow by. Unfortunately they just tried to start it. Yeah literally. They tried to start it one time, and then called and said “possibly” new motor, “possibly timing” without any confirmation test. So 
I’m lost. But I guess I’ll need to find another shop. Hopefully they don’t keep it for 3 months. It just seemed to me the guy didn’t wanna dig into this n62 engine, and was making excuses not too.
I think this is less the shops not “doing their job”, and more your not wanting to hear or believe what they are telling you.
Your engine is likely trash due to lack of oil. Even if it is “just the timing”, that can likely lead to other internal engine troubles. The mechanics likely don’t want to work on your engine due to the cost, complexity, relative age of the car, etc.
You either need a new engine or a new car. On a BMW, a new anything will not be cheap.
Sorry to sound harsh, but you’re making this too hard. Good luck.
It’s not a big deal if it needs another N62tu. I just need to know where is the issue.
Seems bmw shop does not do major engine work. If they did they would give you a price. If they told you it needs engine out service for $$$ what would you do?
Here’s an idea.
Take the car to a BMW dealer. Let them diagnose the problem.
Somehow I suspect you’re going to be shocked at the cost. And I also think it’s going to be most effective for you to get a new “N62TU”. Get ready.
That will likely require a postmortem on your old engine, ask the shop if they will do that after installing your new engine.
It’s almost certainly a used engine since they were last installed in cars in 2010. Certainly a rebuilt engine will be more expensive than a rebuilt Ford or Chevy, but still much cheaper than a crate engine. Also, if the OP has to replace an N62B40TU, maybe he could consider the N62B48TU and add 61 HP and 50 Nm of torque. That assumes the rest of the drivetrain can accommodate the 4.8L engine.
Your welcome, shout out if you need anything else 