Okay so car lost power while driving. Sparks plugs work.Got a new full pump read online it could be the reason for not starting up again. I was then told about spraying starting fluid into the filter to see if it’s a fuel issue Tried it didn’t work. thenTurns out my battery was dead got a new one and put starting fluid into the air filter component and it turned on. it started For about 3 seconds and then turns off but loses power. The lights are on but can’t drive so I turn it off. I was told it’s a sign of a fuel issue so what next to check? I want to at least get the car on to drive it to a mechanic
Did the starting fluid thing and it did exactly what you said. Started then turned off. Did it again and turned on but once I shifted to drive turned off
Next step is to hook up a fuel pressure gage. I believe on this car there is a Schrader valve on the fuel rail. Hook up the gage and have someone turn the key to the rún position (not crank position). The gage should read around 40 lbs. If it doesn’t, turn the key off and then back to the run position again. If it goes higher than the first time, cycle it again until you get around 40 lbs. If you do not get 40 lbs on the first try and it gets higher on subsequent tried, you have a fuel restriction somewhere. Usually the filter or damaged fuel lines. Then you can jump the fuel pump relay as @Honda_Blackbird described and see if the fuel pressure stays at around 40. If it does, try starting it. If you can’t get 40 lbs, you have pump or restriction problems.
Yeah man…sounds like you are very close to a solution. Good on ya mate. Let us know
I would be as likely to suspect the mechanic’s code reader was defective. See if you can get a cheap bluetooth code reader or if you can rent one from an autoparts place. There are probably mobile mechanics who could go to the car.
As another poster said it is very rare for the ecu to be defective, but that said your Altima was a widely sold car and I am sure there are good numbers of them in pick and pull yards, and that you could probably find one from the same year and model trim. However that may come with its own issues, and it could be problem recognizing your key.
‘‘Would that cause it to lose power while driving ?’’
Yes. Whatever you do though if you are changing the crankshaft sensor get a genuine Nissan one. There are much cheaper options but they are far more likely to have communication issues with your ecm. I am basing this upon what a Nissan Master Tech has repeatedly written on Nissan Forums.
I had a similar problem. The rear catylitic converter was pluged. This did not show correctly on the code readers. Threw the whole system out of wack.
With all of the changes are you sure spark plug wires are on the correct spark plug. Repair manuals may have a picture of the correct order. Fireing order is important and a simple fix.
Doesn’t have wires just goes on top of the engine and covered by ignition coils
Fuel line has pressure and relays work. Pretty much just scratching my head at this point. Just going to have to take it to the dealer. It is what it is. Appreciate the help guys
If you are certain you have both good spark and fuel rail pressure when this occurs, the next most likely suspect is the injectors aren’t being pulsed. Beyond that you’d be looking at some unusual internal engine problem or exhaust system problem.
Trying to be brave here how did you replace the spark plugs if the top of the engine is covered by a shroud?
When the original problem occurred was it idling rough, did you hit the gas and the engine died? If you can get it to start will it idle then die with even minor engine load?
Looking at schematic of fuel system how many fuel filters and have they all been REPLACED not cleaned?
Working backwards and not knowing anything about this car,least expensive and on up:
Dirty or clogged injectors, you opened the fuel system and didn’t drain or back flush the line running from fuel filter/pump to injectors-clean or replace. You may have to take this to some place, not a dealership, and have the fuel system flushed with cleaning agent from fuel tank to injectors then reassess. Look out for rip off artists here because you need someone who knows what they’re doing. Look at mechanics files (Car Talk) and see if they’re recommendations.
Does this car have individual injectors for each cylinder? If so one or more may need to be replaced. Professional level repair to assess.
If the car doesn’t start at all then (expensive drum roll) sensor on camshaft be be dead, this feeds info into the computer and they all die sooner or later, both under and over one hundred thousand miles. $1500-$2000 to repair/replace. I don’t think this particular job is at amateur level.
Don’t forget cost/benefit ratio, is this car worth the time, effort and expense of repair? If the repair comes close to car payments for 12 months then really consider this last point.
I reread entire posting, replacing cabin filter is a piece of outlier information.
Are spark plug wires on the correct spark plugs, you response to when I asked this earlier doesn’t make sense.
Camshaft sensor sure makes sense at his point, probably the most expensive too. Response to trying to start sure sounds electrical, ? fuel pump sensor? This would be cheaper and easier to fix, stick with OEM replacementat this point. And ALWAYS consider when you replace a part, situation not fixed then new part may be defective-I’ve seen this occur 4-5 times with a non-OEM replacement part-alternator. These things are all collected from dealerships, garages, parts places, go to a central place where new replaceable parts are installed per a standard protocol, maybe cleaned and put into new box and out the door. No checking to see if they actually work-you do that. Maybe on some of them it was something else that needed attention.
I am not too sure I understand your posts here, but I have a Nissan with the same 2.5 engine and crankshaft sensor problems are a common problem. Bit of a pain to replace as it’s at the back of the lower part of the engine, but a genuine Nissan sensor plus install should not run more than $300 total. Changing the camshaft sensor is much easier as it’s on top of the engine. Nissan sold a kit that included both ( they are the same part) cam and crank sensors for less than the cost of individual ones, and its good to replace both at the same time. But if doing just one, its the crankshaft one that goes bad most often due to micro cracking of the plastic and oil fouling. In fact there was a redesign of the part to correct this that uses a metal cap.
Another thing that acted up on mine and created an intermittent no-start condition was a bad PCV valve. Its at the back of the valve cover.
The car ran fine. I was driving on the highway and the gas stopped working. The dash was still on, I pulled over and turned it off and tried to start it and it wouldn’t go back on. Yes the car while idling the rpms gauge was moving. Got it towed to my address then I replaced the engine filter and cabin filter. The car started right up after that. I drove it a bit and was fine so I decided to go ahead and change a few stuff such as replacing the fuel pump, ignition coils and spark plugs. Since everything else was new. Then when started the car up again wouldn’t start. Checked the pressure, it was fine. Then checked relay aswell fine. Check for spark aswell got it.Then sprayed starting fluid as I was suggested above, the car started but once put on drive it turned off. Put makes sound when car is turned so I’m sure it works. I’m assuming could be a restriction wouldn’t know how to go about it. Not really confident of the mechanics in my area cause first one that took a look at it said it was the ECU but my battery was bad and he didn’t even catch that. So I’m hesitant to who I take it to next
How would I go about diagnosing the camshaft sensor? Or is it something you just replace and hope its that? The car wasn’t giving codes according to the mechanic that checked it. I just bought my own code reader I’ma check for myself and see if I get anything
here’s some obvious things you can look for . . .
Is the sensor physically damaged in some way?
is the connector plugged in all the way . . . does the connector click?
are the wires in good shape . . . no obvious rat damage?
sensor hardware is tight . . . no loose nuts and bolts?
If you hook up a pro-level scanner, you should be able to see if there’s any activity from the camshaft position sensor. There should be a “counter” which should obviously be counting up; as the engine idles, the numbers should be increasing over time
If you know the cam and crank sensors were never changed, then I would go for that. You can buy a kit from Nissan that includes both sensors at a good price. Do some research or find the service manual for how to. Crank sensor is the one that is usually problematic and is of course the hardest to get to and change as its at the back of the engine. Do not bother trying cheap no name sensors, too many prove problematic best to go OE from Nissan for these.
Update. It’s at a shop and it’s the “fuel pump” which I bought new after the car shut off. So it hasn’t even been driven with the new fuel pump. The pump is working but not sensing the correct amount. That the sensor is high up so once it’s below the pump it won’t bring fuel to the front. But the dash shows half a tank and the pumps new. What are the chances of the pump being defective. Everything else is good in the according to their diagnosis. Computer is fine and sensors. They told me get it swapped and re install it or pay 250$ for them to install it
The car starts and runs briefly on starting fluid. It is a fuel system issue!