I’m ga little confused on that too. I though double on brakes plus the lines had to be of exact length. I’m not about to find out though but even on my gas line in the house was just the inverted flair and still fine after 20 years.
That’s a great video. His tool is better than the Performance Tools auto parts store stuff though. The directions for that don’t even mention how much tubing to flare on the 1st step, and I’m not even sure that the height of the die even matches what it’s supposed to be. That’s why I had success using 3/4 of the thickness of the base of the die. If the die moves to one side going down then it’s messed up. If it starts to go down to one side early on I put a drill bit in there to keep that side up to force the die to go down straight. I can use progressively smaller drill bits. Else it smashes one side of the tube down first and then the whole thing gets pushed over to one side and becomes uneven and it doesn’t work out.
The thread is dead now, but I want to thank everyone for helpful advice. My titan tool ended up breaking (i snapped the bolt so it’s fixable but broken) I ended up renting the O’reillys kit and it took some practice but it ended up much better. I created the line and got it all together the brakes worked. Then the funniest thing happened
I didn’t tighten my lug nuts so a wheel came off while driving and I had to order a new wheel and new rotors and I ended up just doing the wheel bearings too because why not.
But finally it’s back and driving and the brakes feel a million times better. Thank you all. (You don’t have to tell me how ugly the routing is, I know)
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Routing looks pretty good to me. Neat and tidy. Good job not yielding to “good enough” and getting the tubes flared properly, the way you wanted.
You aren’t the only diy’er that’s happened to. Ask me how I know … lol … wheel didn’t fall off in my case, but handling got a might wobbly before I realized what was happening.
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Natural gas line much less pressure than brake lines w/brake applied.
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Yes, a tiny fraction of the pressure, a few psi vs hundreds of psi.
You’re a step ahead of most of those cars from back in the day. At least you have power brakes…and a cool car.
A guy I knew back then bought a new 1970 GTO and it was drop dead gorgeous. Cardinal Red with a black vinyl top and black interior with buckets.He ordered it with factory A/C, PS, PB, and a few other options including an automatic transmission. He was almost laughed out of town for being “soft” and no one even wanted to street race him.
I could live with those options except the slush box and that was the main point of contention.
And don’t worry about the lug nut mistake. Every mechanic who has ever drawn a breath has erred a few times including me. One of mine was one of those “saw the limb off that you’re sitting on” kind of mistakes. 
and more…
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I know this is years late, but I had this same problem with the same kind of tool with nicopp lines. The issue is that the lines need to be moved further back than what the instructions and the OP0 die want you to set it to. For mine, I was only able to start getting decent OP1 flares once I had the end of the line halfway between the edge of the sight hole, and the edge of the alignment line. Not the center, but the edge. You may need to experiment with your own tool as there is the potential for each tool to have a different sweet spot.
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I replaced a lot of rotted out brake and fuel lines back in the ay on the $100-$200 “workcars” I bought and interruped their trip to the unk yard for a few years. I never bought a flare tool or learned tou use one. Brake lines came in a wide variety of lengths and there were also cvonnectors to bolt them together so that I was able to get them togteher by bendin them just a little short, then adjusting the bend. Before fuel injection, there was no need to flare fuel lines. Two hose clamps and a piece of flexible fuel line would do the job.
Back in the olden days my recollection is gas line to the carb was low pressure, and fuel pressure was regulated by a pump on the card, now with inline high pressure pumps that has changed.
Yes it has. An old mechanical pump for a carb might generate 5-7psi. A modern day direct injected engine will have fuel pressures above 2000psi.
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