Have a 2005 Malibu Classic 2.2. Replacing rear brake lines from pump to wheels. Fitting from right rear line at pump was really tight to start taking off. It has copper above the flare and is coarse thread. The left side is different. I’m wondering about the copper on right hand fitting. Is the copper supposed to be on fitting, and if so do I have to replace it with a fitting with that Copper on it. Like maybe it’s a dealership only thing.
The advice here is to use a special type of wrench for this sort of task, a “flare wrench”.
Sorry, no clue about the copper gadget. Copper is often used as a seal, as it will deform to whatever it is mating against, so I’m guessing it is required. Ask your parts store to show you what they have, maybe they all have the copper gadget anyway.
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Thanks for the tip. I do have a full set of quality flare wrenches. But knowing that I am replacing the lines, I just cut the lines and used a full six point. Had no trouble breaking it loose, I just noted that it was tight to make a note that might give a tip to someone who might know something about the copper ring. I did find a fitting at the parts store with a bubble flare that fit, but without copper. The flare should seal, so I am becoming less worried about the copper. Now I’m just curious as to why it was there.
The copper is not important as long as the fittings match your application.
Thanks, Good to get a second opinion, I can only assume that it was designed in for anti vibration.
You are probably already aware of this, but brake lines requires a special type of flare, called a double flare. Make sure the fitting you purchased was designed for brake line use.
Yeah double flare everywhere except where entering the pump or master cylinder. Those require bubble flare fittings.
not sure what you mean by “pump” as applied to brakes.
Sorry, I took a shortcut on my description. I should know better. It’s frustrating to me when someone post a problem of “car won’t start” or “car won’t turn on” . When what that should say"car cranks but doesn’t start", or " no crank". It would save a lot of time. Anyway, the pump I’m reffering to on this car is actually a hydraulic control unit or manifold. I assume it’s a proportional valve. Lines go in from master cylinder, and 1 line out to each wheel. This unit recieves bubble flare, but the line going out transitions to a double flare. So one end of the line is bubble, the other end is double.
Thats something you don’t see on Japanese cars.They use double flare everywhere.Anyway, the rear brake lines should be replaced with NiCopp instead of steel because the stuff doesn’t rust,flares good and bends easily.
Working on a 05 Malibu Classic
NiCop isn’t very much more expensive, and well worth it up in Northern Michigan
Of course, you won’t have to redo these lines in the future.Just make sure you insert the fitting before you flare the line.
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Yeah, story of my Life. Don’t know how many times I said out loud to myself fitting first, then make flare then said out loud to myself ******** forgot The fitting. Same with heat shrink tube for electrical
I’m wondering if you are referring to an ABS (anti-lock) unit? The ABS gadget is located between the MC and the calipers. It has a sort of pump in it I think.
At first, that’s what I thought also. But there is no pump to be found, and the only wires to brake system is for the fluid level indicator. The the brake lines starting at master cylinder goes to this block. There is no pump or wires attached or inside of this block. The part description for this block is the hydraulic control unit/ manifold. This vehicle was not equipped with antilock. There are speed sensors and connectors at wheel, but nothing to hook to from engine. There are no ABS warning lights or places for them in the dash. This block is a porportional block that gives more pressure to front brakes than rear.
Without ABS, yes, you are almost certainly correct, a simple proportioning valve. Are you outside the USA? Your nomenclature (wording) is a little unusual.
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