Op I am not 100% certain if it goes through the brake light switch or not, probably yes, but it’s not a neutral safety switch… again it’s a shift solenoid interlock or something to that effect. Why do you keep saying neutral safety switch? Mustang man and tester both said a neutral safety switch keeps it from starting in drive, or reverse, (no big deal but what’s the terminology)
it’s not the neutral safety switch…shift interlock maybe, and yes if it’s dead dead dead dead dead the battery, or or an open connection somewhere then it won’t come out of park yes.
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Maybe I am answering too soon, but still sounds like some kind of connection or a bad cable.
Sometimes those cables can croade on the inside and you can’t see it.
Yes I would do the parasitic draw test and see what you get… if that’s okay drive it for a few days and see how it works.
You may want to research on the internet, how to do a voltage drop test with your digital multimeter that will tell you if you have a bad cable or not, or a bad connection even though you did clean and tighten them. You need to do a voltage drop test on the ground cable and the positive cable to the starter.
Sometimes life decides to be irritating by presenting problems which have multiple causes. You fix one, but the others are still there, so the thing still doesn’t work.
If I had a battery that was showing voltage but not acting like it had voltage, I’d first suspect wiring as others have suggested. A loose/corroded through/etc cable that isn’t making a good connection can ape a dead battery.
Another thing to suspect would be the battery itself - posts can break internally and make intermittent contact. The battery tests fine, but can’t hack it when it’s asked to do real work. This can happen due to impacts on the battery. Maybe the guy at the battery store dropped it, then tested it, saw it had a good voltage reading, and assumed he got away with it. I know you replaced that battery, but it’s possible that the original one was bad, and now you’re back to finding the bad wiring.
Stop referring to the shift interlock as the neutral safety switch. They are two different things!
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when you originally posted you were asking about how you had to jump start the battery and how it could drain so fast. so, we told you to have the battery check and the connections. I also posted a video for you on how to check for parasitic draw. those would be the things to check first. because if the battery is not starting the vehicle, it does not really matter about getting it out of park because you could not go anywhere anyway. you seemed to be upset with a couple of us because you thought it had to do with the shifter.
it turned out to be the battery. now if you have problems with the battery being over charged, I would check the alternator too. if you still nave a problem latter on with getting it out of park, that could be a different problem.
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If you got 17 volts when the car was not running…and especially if you get this while the battery is disconnected, I would try a different voltmeter.
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VDCdriver and Volvo-70 are different members of this forum. I quoted Volvo, and then VDC quoted me quoting Volvo. Sure, their user names both start both a V, but they are different people.
my note about the neutral safety switch could have been worded a bit clearer, but was not wrong. (I edited it to make it clearer.) The Neutral Safety Switch is not the issue with your shifter not moving- as you found.
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