Help me plz,I have a 1992 ford mustang 4 cylinder,its messed up bad.my car is shaking bad all the time and will not go faster than 40mph.what is wrong??
Not enough info to help you. You need to answer a few additional questions;
Is the check engine light on? Have you had someone read out the error codes? What are they?
By shaking, what do you mean? Is the engine chugging and seemingly operating on fewer than 4 cylinders?
How many miles? How has the car been maintained? Oil changes, fuel filters, timing belt changes?
Has the car been driven all these years or left to sit? When did you start driving it again (if it sat).
We want to help but can’t do it blindly.
I think that we all know the inevitable answer to that question.
Unfortunately, there is a segment of the population that believes–erroneously–that everyone is driving around with their CEL constantly lit-up. I would be willing to bet a cup of coffee that the CEL is flashing/blinking, after having been lit up on a steady basis for an extended period of time.
The problem with reading the diagnostic codes with this vehicle will likely be that it has an OBD I system, with codes that are much less specific than the codes produced by an OBD II vehicle. However, the underlying problem will almost surely be a situation related to lax maintenance.
92 isnt that easy to pull codes from… He has to make the ECU “Morse Code” it to him.
Sounds like a misfire condition at first glance. Not enough information really
I’ll take that cup of coffee!
The Check Engine light doesn’t blink/flash on OBDI vehicles.
OBDI never detected for misfires.
“I’ll take that cup of coffee!”
Okay, I will gladly pay-up, but it will be a cup of Dunkin Donuts coffee, as I am not willing to pay for something that is actually of good quality or is drinkable…
Please let me know when you will be in my neck of the woods so that I can treat you to a cup of Dunkin Donuts coffee.
Sorry I didn’t give more info.I,don’t know much about cars at all.no the check engine light is off.this problem started in September of last year.I only drive it in my yard now.it’s been drove 3 times since the problem,started.I havnt had a oil change in a while.I hadn’t check any codes.
When I start my car it starts shaking while sitting a continues as I drive it.
Yes ny car seems real sluggish n shakes and won’t go over 40mph.
I have a lot of miles on it 60,000 best test.the engine has been rebuilt.I havnt done maintenance regular.
im having the same issue with my 97’ Hyundai Tiburon. wont go over 40. its very hard to gain speed/acceleration misfires p301 p302 and 304 with rich and lean error codes. i know my post doesnt help with this discussion.
I need it fixed asap.this sucks
60K miles? Its still a baby…
As for the OP’s problem, here’s where I’d start
- Check engine oil level and oil condition
- Check engine coolant level, signs of corrosion
- Check for any obvious broken/split vacuum hose & connectors.
- Likewise for cracked or damaged spark plug wires
- Ask your mechanic to pull the spark plug wire from the spark plugs one at a time, then replace and move to the next. Don’t try this yourself b/c there’s a chance if not careful of getting shocked. If pulling a spark plug wire has no effect, you know that cylinder probably isn’t working.
There’s more to do to get to the bottom of this probably, but suggest to start with those. Let us know what you discover.
@tholloway1990 … best to post the problem on your Hyundai as a separate thread. Click that big red button on the upper right “New Discussion” & repost.
@GeorgeSanJose i did that, just trying to get my issue solved too i need it so i dont have to continue to use family members cars
OK, I see your post further down the list.
Note the OP says the car has a lot of miles on it and that the engine has been rebuilt. My assumption is that the 60k is miles since the rebuild and it’s stated that regular maintenance hasn’t been done.
Since the world “rebuild” could mean something ominous all depending upon who and how it was rebuilt my suggestion would be a compression check to see if that rebuild has gone south.
IF compression is good then you need to consider an ignition miss due to plugs, wires, etc.
If those are not the cause then maybe the fuel pump is on the way out, the exhaust is clogged, or a large vacuum leak exists.
It should not be difficult to sort this car out as they are very simple. You could also pull any diagnostic codes and see if anything is present.
This can be done with a cheap (20 bucks) code reader or with a VOM and the twitchy needle method.
Thankyou so much for all the advice.
Ok, Michelle, it needs to go to a mechanic. or a junk yard. Your choice. I’d guess the timing belt just slipped a tooth, the distributor cap and rotor need to be replaced, or plugs or plug wires or one or 2 fuel injectors or a fuel filter or some combination of problems.
It will take a mechanic some time ($) to work through all the likely issues. Most I listed aren’t expensive individually but in total this car may take more than a few dollars to get it running properly. If it is on its second engine, I’d guess it has LOTS of miles. You may be better off to sell it as scrap or as a “Mechanics Special” on Craigslist.