Motor oil


#1

what brand motor oil is the best.


#2

Open questions like this are like asking what religion is best.

Oils like Amsoil or Royal Purple are best for those selling them.

ANY oil that meets your car maker’s specs, that you change per your car maker’s recommendation, and that you can get for a good price, is likely one that will be best for you.

Is there something more specific you’re looking for?


#3

The specification and the viscosity of the oil is far more important than the brand.
As long as you make sure that you are using the same specification oil that is noted in the Owner’s Manual, and as long as you use the same viscosity that the car mfr mentions, any brand of oil will be fine.

And, let us not forget about the importance of manually checking the oil level on a regular basis, as well as changing the oil at least as often as the car mfr specifies. All too often, I have seen people worry about the brand of motor oil, but then fail to check the level of the oil between oil changes.

The most expensive motor oil in the world will not save an engine that is run low on oil, or that is run too long between changes.


#4

Just stick an oil that meets your specs and you’ll be fine.


#5

Select a brand and stick with it. I’ve used the same one for 40 years. Keeping the oil changed on a regular basis is far more important than the oil brand. BTW the brand is…starts with a C and ends with an L.


#6

'‘motor oil’s motor oil’'
Remember that commercial ?

If the O.P is reading let’s hope they see all our advice includes the words ‘’ YOUR VEHICLE’S SPECS’’ and reads their owner’s manual for their un-known vehicle.


I have failed to follow my own advice however . ( head hung low in ‘‘car guy’’ shame )
Changing the oil today on my 79 at 70647 miles
Last oil change was at 69383 miles…in 2004 !!!


#7

40 yrs ago, my car motor was built of different metal. Today’s metal is not the same as old metal. That’s why you need new improved oil. With micro encapsulated nano fibre technology. Read about it on the Internet.


#8

It’s not the brand of oil that’s important, it’s how often you change it…Cars seldom go to the bone yard because of engine failure. They go because of rust damage or transmission failure or collision damage…


#9

I’d stick with any major national brand. I won’t use the “store brands” in my own cars or my customer’s cars. Just because the same company that makes Valvoline makes “PartsMaster” doesn’t mean it’s the same oil. The same company that made the Corvette made the Citation.


#10

More than you will ever need to know abuot motor oil:


#11

And all oil is cheaper at Walmart compared to almost any other store


#12

I keep seeing so much misinformation on motor oil that it looks as bad as the misinformation I teach about in my health nutrition classes.
I have spent approximately 3 hours onj the telephone with two old time oil chemists. One of them has numerous patents and is called on by the majors to solve problems. They have not given me permission to discuss the numerous industry-wide lies they told me about, so I will not write their names here as I wish to keep at least one of them for whenever I need a technical question answered. If I can believe what they have taught me and I have no reason not to, here are a few lesser known facts in no particular order. A federal lawsuit was settled which ended up allowing any manufacturer to list their oils as synthetic since there are so many synthetic chemical blends added to the base natural oil and so the synthetic sword is a marketing hype. Many of these companies have paid millions of dollars due to FTC slapping them on the wrist for major lies. Oil is based at a 10 weight before things are added to it and is clear and basically colorless. Some of the colors that are added for marketing purposes such as to make an oil look purple, are very acid and hurt our engines. Adding packages of chemicals to bring an oil below 10 weight may be a bad thing as it reduces other beneficial properties of the oil. Going above 30 weight, so above and 5 or 10 -30 actually causes more wear on the engine based on a multi-million dollar study done by General motors years ago when I spoke to their oil chemist at length. He also told me that many of the major oil brands DO NOT MEET the API letter designations printed on their cans, as they keep changing the additive packages and don’t spend the money for the very costly API testing to see if it still meets the specs. He would not tell me which ones usually did not meet their specs due to our lawsuit crazy country. When I told him that in the mechanics school I attended for 3 months, they had found that GT1 Kendal tested better than the others (please note that school was attended in 1978) his comment was I should believe my instructors. They (Kendal oil) have been bought out by a different corporation since then and so I can no longer trust that answer. The chemist I currently speak with tells me that since they have a great deal more money and more to lose, that he finds the MAJOR oil companies (who he does not work for) generally have the best oil and he means the ones like Chevron, Texaco, etc as opposed to Valvoline, Quaker State etc. He recently told me (last week Dec. 2013) that since my car is a 1995 Mitsubishi EXPO with 270,000 original miles (never had the engine overhauled) that I would benefit from a commercial oil such as a CJ rated 10-30 and that regardless of what many people who don’t know what they are writing about (he used WAY stronger words than that) one of the reasons I still have my original engine and no smoke coming out my tailpipe and no problems ever passing California’s strict SMOG testing (last year the tech was amazed at my results) was probably due to my have used Prolong with every oil change for 200,000 miles and recently I am switching back and forth with Militec-1. I am now experimenting with the stainless steel GoPure washable oil filter and I will know more after I have sent oil tests in to Blackstone Laboratories at 5,000, 10,000, and if they say it still tests fine then I’ll send them in every 3,000 after that. Hope it is as good as they claim. Happy holidays to everyone


#13

A bigger load of BS would be hard to find. Thanks for collecting it in one place, I guess…


#14

270K miles? Is that your only car?


#15

@Naturopath

WTF . . . . . . . . !!!

Are you writing the great American novel . . . ?

Do you truly expect anybody to wade through that . . . ?

What would your high school English teacher say if they read that?

Ever heard of separate paragraphs?

" . . . no smoke coming out of my tailpipe . . . "

That’s because it’s coming out of your mouth


#16

@Naturopath

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#17

Gotta agree with Texases and db4690. Just couldn’t wade through all that. I just use Mobil and buy it at Mills Fleet Farm when its on sale.


#18

@Naturopath,

Well since you attended mechanic school for 3 months in 1978 and you have a couple of friends who know why a Mitsubishi is still running at 270,000 miles I’ll read your infomercial at face value instead of stepping in it.


#19

@cdaquila

Perhaps this thread should be closed

It seems to have outlived its usefulness


#20
what brand motor oil is the best.

Well for cooking Wesson, for salads Filippo Berio Extra virgin olive, for health fish oil with omega 3’s, for my guns… I could go on and on but for my cars any reasonably priced oil that meets the specs. In the owners manual. I also change my oil often, sometimes too often. But that a just me and my opinions.