Hi. I’ve been to the mechanic twice already and he’s not fixed the problem since my check engine light came on 2-3 weeks ago. After the second time, last Friday - Feb 4, 2011, of sitting in the shop for 4.5 hours - the check engine light came on again that evening. I took the car to auto zone for a free diagnostic reading. The diagnostic reported there was a cylinder 2 misfire. Today (February 10. 2011)
I went to the car this morning prepared to go to work and the car would not start! I just had the battery replaced in October so I know that it cannot be the battery. There was a clicking sound so it ruled out the starter which leads me to believe there is something wrong with the engine.
I just had the car towed back today to the mechanic who worked on the car twice already - of course with a towing fee. I honestly don’t believe that the mechanic is getting to the root of the problem. I can’t tell him how to do his job but he should be able to assess from a diagnostic reading what needs to be done?Am I right?
This mechanic has fixed my car twice and it’s still broken! I’ve paid my money with no results. This is the third time my car will have been in his care. Did I mention this car shop is a national chain? Uh-hem (Clears Throat) Meineke! Can you please tell me what’s wrong with my car so I can tell him what to fix?
The diagnostic reads exactly: Cylinder Misfire Detected - cylinder number 2. Explanation: The powertrain control module monitors the crankshaft speed and has detected a misfire condition. Probable cause: a. Ignition system fault-spark plug(s),ignition wires, coil. 2. Vacuum Leak 3. Injector Fault 4. High Or Low Fuel Pressure. The work the mechanic did was he replaced the ignition coil pack. The sparks plugs were replaced back in May of 2010. I hope this helps to narrow down what the problem may be. I look forward to your response. Thanks for your help.
Sincerely,
MyHyundaiIsGrey aka Desperately Needs My Car Fix
P.S. - Will someone tell me if the THIRD time is the charm? The mechanic “fixed” my car twice and it’s still BROKEN.
With all that you have said here you still didnt tell us what the car is doing?? You said the car was in the shop for 4.5 hours. Ok, Why was it in there?? What was it doing?? You say now the car wont start. If its just clicking, you have not ruled out the starter unless you have removed it and had it bench tested. Now, if the mechanic worked on it for a misfire the first time, what did he do?? What did he replace?? I doubt very highly that your clicking starter has anything to do with your cylinder misfire problem. It sure would help to have more info on this so we can help you.
transman
Hi. Thanks for your reply. You did not read my full post. Towards the end of the post I stated the mechanic put in an ignition coil pack. Friday as I drove the car it was like the engine was coughing that’s the best way I can explain it. This morning there was a clicking sound as I turned the key. I hope this helps.
Could you better describe the clicking sound when you turned the key? Was it a rapid or repetitive clicking or more like a strong, solid “clack”? Was it a weak sounding, single click with dimming dash lights? I ask because I want to try to narrow down the cause of the no start condition. There is virtually zero chance the previous work has anything to do with the no start condition. Your most likely culprit for the no start condition, from the sound of what you describe so far, is a drained or bad battery. Even though it was replaced in October, you could still have a bad battery (defective batteries can go bad in hours, days, or months. Every case is different), or something could have drained it like a light left on in the car, glovebox, or trunk. If you got a solid “clack” when you turned the key, that would indicate an engine problem, as in, the engine is locked up, which is highly unlikely.
In short, your no start condition is very unlikely to be related to your misfire code or anything this mechanic did to your car. It sounds like a battery issue to me. You may want to talk to friends, family, coworkers, etc. to try to find a skilled mechanic to diagnose this problem. While there are some good crews at some chain shops, most of them tend to be low paying, entry level jobs with employees who have little experience or skills, and a high turnover rate. Try a well established, privately owned shop with a strong diagnostics reputation.
Just FYI if you want responses, state the problem briefly FIRST and then the detail latter.
Just like everything else in life you need to catch the readers attention quick otherwise you lose them and potential answers.
Your next move is not returning the shop except maybe to demand a refund. Ask friends for a recommendation of independent or even show up at dealer.
Meineke is more for brake work, mufflers and minor stuff. Not diagnostics.
Going to Meineke to fix this is like going to get a quadruple-bypass surgery. At the veterinarian’s office!!!
Seriously, you need to take it to a better mechanic, whether at a dealer or independent shop. Meineke is fine for exhaust, brakes, tires etc. but they are in WAY over their heads with this.
I can’t tell him how to do his job but he should be able to assess from a diagnostic reading what needs to be done?Am I right?
No, you are incorrect. A diag scanner will not read something like “replace TPS”. It will not tell you exactly what is wrong all the time. Think of it this way, The scanner will tell you to go north, south, east or west and might even tell you which highway to travel on. But it will not tell you which exit to take. Not entirely accurate explanation but you get my drift.
Did I mention this car shop is a national chain? Uh-hem (Clears Throat) Meineke
This is half the problem. Go to a dealer and have it repaired by an automotive tech.
Im not sure what your initial trip to Meineke was for? What was your issue?
So you went to the garage…you went homw and tried to start the car and heard a click…that was your starter solenoid trying to engage your starter. This was a drained battery…look at your batt terminals and clamps…they need to be clean and greased to conduct the proper voltage to your batt keeping it properly charged…
NOW the OTHER issue was that you had a cylinder #2 misfire. I would start at the simplest thing first…re-replace the #2 spark plug…they go bad at random very often. If that doesnt solve the issue…you go to the spark plug wire…if it doesnt have a wire then it has coil over plug…YOu failed to state the Year of your Hyundai. If it has wires and a distributor…I would change the wire to the #2…and then the distributor cap and rotor…but I am doubtful it even has one…again need the YEAR of vehicle…very important to know about the ignition system.
SO re-replace the #2 plug…then look into the wire going to #2…then distrib cap and rotor…no cap and rotor, no wires? Then its coil over plug…replace the spark tube from the coil to plug in the coil over plug system… You have a very specific failure and cannot be caused by too many different things…any mechanic worth his salt can start troubleshooting the #2 cylinder misfire rather easily…