yeah now I am thinking its not holding a charge very well. …after running the car for 20 min there should be ample electricity.
Good catch!
Hand waving in the air. I know, I know. Oh wait I’m not a mechanic just a retired administrator with a million and a half miles under my belt, so I could be wrong.
Hey guys, not you Mazda, he’s got a gol dang dead battery and when it died he dumped all the computer memory for the engine settings. It’s stalling because it hasn’t relearned the driveability settings.
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The relearn process usually occurs without notice but the PCM can not relearn when operating with a failed battery/unstable system voltage.
Edit gone wrong
What? Relatively tight? Either they are tight or not, and if your getting a voltage drop from the post the the cable terminal they’re not.
Then seriously you should be at a shop not a free public forum.
Sure do. The same as most here, put a battery in it. Since you won’t go for a proper diagnosis, that probably would be the cheapest option. Even better see if someone you know might have a battery that is close enough, just to test the theory.
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what is battery voltage when trying to start? not jumping it- but trying to start it on it’s own?
If it is below 10 volts, then the battery needs recharged or replaced. 20 minutes of idling may not do enough of a recharge for what you are wanting.
Pull the battery out and take it to get it checked. as others have said- you likely need a replacement and for the car to go through the relearn process (as the car will run rough until it completes this process.)
Unless the battery is junk.
If you’re buying batteries at Walmart, that might be your problem. Walmart sells a lot of products that have good brand names, but that are specifically made for Walmart to lower quality specifications so that they can charge less money for it and still make a profit. That’s why Levis bought at Walmart suck in comparison to Levis bought at a good store. Buy good batteries - you really do get what you pay for in this.
You have to be joking with this, right? If you want only professional mechanics to comment on your question, then you should stop being cheap, and go to a professional shop and give them some money and ask them. You don’t get to dictate who replies to what you put on the internet.
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Well, from what you describe, the stalling always occurs under an idle condition.
That would make me look at the idle air control circuit. And the idle air control valve.
Tester
IM not joking:
A lot of posts are trolls and armchair mechanics.
I never said a professional mechanic, I said an experienced one!
IE not some kid who knows how to change a spark plug…
Thanks for the proper solution…
Nope sorry put in a new battery 
going to last another 5 years
THIS IS THE WIERD PART
I didn’t drive the car for ten days and it starts right up
I let the car sit for one day and it wouldn’t start
Mind you, that one day was a lot colder than the ten day break.
If measured at times other than during cranking, that seems like an excessive voltage drop. Suggest to remove the cables from the battery and clean the posts and connectors with a battery post tool followed by reconnecting. You may have some oxidation making the cable/post resistance too high. Temperature is a prime input to battery chemistry, so it isn’t surprising you get totally different results starting your car when it is colder vs warmer.