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'Lil Help: Finding a prior vdo posted about door lock dissassembly

Someone here posted within the past month or two a u-tube vdo about how to disassemble a car’s door lock. With the lock removed from the car and on the bench I mean. It showed how to remove the key-cylinder and then remove or access the individual wafers. Does anybody recall which thread that was posted? I’ve searched using the forum’s search box above, but not coming up with anything.

Car make and year would be a good start for helpful responses.

I think that was a Toyota ignition lock cylinder;

Yes, Nevada’s link above, that’s the one I was looking for, thanks.

Yeah I did that with a door lock on my Olds. The one tumbler was too corroded so I just took it out. The only one that would ever know is someone trying to pick the lock which would be slightly easier.

@Bing … interesting … My key no longer works the lock; the key has worn over time along with the other locks on the car so they still match up ok. But not this particular lock since I seldom open that side with a key. It hasn’t worn, so it doesn’t match the worn key.

With the lock removed from the door and on the work bench, I discovered I can pick it and can turn the cylinder as if I had the key. That’s pretty easy b/c with it on the work bench I can see the tops of all the tumblers like in the vdo, so it’s easy to adjust them with a pick to meet up at the shear line. What I’d like to do now is remove the cylinder – the part that rotates – from the fixed part that holds the cylinder. That would give me access to the wafers. So far I haven’t figured out how to do that.

I solved the problem of worn ignition key not working properly by going to the dealer and having a key cut for my vehicle. 11 bucks and works great.

I doubt that would work in my case. I have two locks needing one key shape, and the third needing another slightly different key shape. I could just put another key on my key chain though.

Its been a long time and trying to remember. Seems to me there is a wafer in the back that holds the mechanism in or else theres a pin to push to release it. At any rate what holds it in is at the back of the deal that holds the tumblers.

@Bing … do you recall, did you have to pry off the stainless steel appearance bezel on the front of the cylinder? And when you figured out how to free it up from the holder, did the cylinder pull out toward the front (toward the key entrance side), or did it pull out toward the back?

I found this vdo, that version pulls out toward the front. He had to pry off the front bezel.

I don’t remember having to pry anything off but who knows. It should come out the front though if its like most locks.

For the inner cylinder to come out the front, that front bezel has to be removed, otherwise not enough room. I’ll give that a try. This lock doesn’t have that coil-spring-retainer on the back (per the vdo above) for some reason. Maybe it fell off at some point, or was never installed to begin win. It looks otherwise identical to the lock in the vdo. Same 7 wafers.

Ok, finally figured out with @Bing 's help how to remove the lock cylinder from the lock casing. It’s done just like in the vdo above. The secret, I had to pry off the stainless steel bezel on the front of the casing first. After that, once the cam arm on the back is removed, the cylinder easily slides out toward the front. The wafers don’t prevent it from sliding out, so there’s no need for a key or to pick the lock. B/c of the shapes of the parts, it’s physically impossible for the cylinder to slide out towards the back.

There’s a problem with this method though, if you plan to re-use the lock. I haven’t figured out how to remove the front bezel without mangling it. It’s put onto the casing lip similar to how a bottle cap is put on a bottle of soda. It must be crimped on with a special tool. I tried the obvious, a beer bottle opener ,but it didn’t have enough purchase to pop the bezel off. I started in with an ice pick next, but decided I was more likely to stab myself than free the bezel using that tool. With age comes wisdom? lol … Anyway, what worked was slip joint pliers. But they mangled the bezel quite a bit.