I noticed something different on the a/c pump. On the park ave the clutch moves freely when engine off. On lesabre the clutch is frozen tight. Moves the pulley with it. When it runs I believe it’s always turning If ac is on or off. Which could be why the ac doesn’t blow cold air even after I tried recharging it a summer ago.
Could this me making the noise?
Could be. The first step is to access assess if the AC clutch is doing its thing or not. Generally the AC controls apply an electrical voltage (12 volts) to an electrical connection located near the clutch which causes an electro-magnet to move the clutch mechanism from not engaged to engaged. It may possible to see that movement if you know where to look. Here’s an example found by Googling
I put WP PS ALT and tensioner bracket back on. Not leaking a drop of antifreeze this time.
The AC clutch keeps turning if ac on or off. I’ll do that simple test next week likely. Sometimes it seems like the noise is coming from that area then you put your ear closer to the other side and it seems like it’s coming from there.
I have pondered putting on a ac bypass pulley on to try that. I would consider a smaller belt and eliminate it if not for the motor mount headache that I’m not doing. And the headache of finding the perfect length belt.
Welcome back my friends to the never ending story.
The story will be. Ending soon. If working on the ac pump doesn’t take the noise away. When I drive it next fall again I will be certain to have AAA PLUS, never be more than 100 miles away and hope for the best.
Think positive! You’ve already solved the coolant link problem, so you are ahead of the game 
Clutch read 0 ohms.
Also did the battery test and it doesn’t engage or do anything.
The fact that it’s frozen means it’s bad also right? Does that mean the noise is from that?
I presume you mean that when you probe the two clutch solenoid connector contacts, the DVM shows 0 ohms. That doesn’t prove the solenoid is defective, b/c the solenoid is just a coil of wire and therefore will normally have a low resistance, and it is nearly impossible to get an accurate low ohm resistance reading with a DVM. The AC clutch actuates when the its electronic controller switches +12 volts to that connector. It should do that when the AC is first turned on. That’s the first test.
Do you mean you connected 12 volts (with the correct polarity) to the 2 AC clutch solenoid input terminals, and the clutch didn’t move?
I did the exact tests on the video above.
It said should be between 2-5 volts.
Battery to ac connections. Clutch didn’t react in any way.
George, I think that you need to watch the very video that you posted, start about the 1:50 mark…
@knocksensor , this is what happens when you are taking the advise of someone that has never worked on, much less owned a vehicle with AC…
The clutch is freaking locked up (bearing seized, frozen), junk, no more test is needed until you replace the clutch at the very least… you have been given advise from Pro mechanics and yet you are ignoring it for this??? Good luck… lol
Do you mean “ohms” rather than “volts”?
As I mentioned above, most DVM’s are not very accurate for low ohm measurements. I don’t trust mine under 5 ohms. It becomes reasonably accurate at around 10 ohms. If I want to make a low ohm measurement, I take advantage of the good accuracy of the DVM’s current-mode measurement and connect a known voltage and measure the current, then use the formula
R = Voltage/Current
One downside, this test may damage the DVM if the current is over its max current spec…
A faulty AC clutch seems a definite possibility. However not every AC clutch design is the same, and yours may be designed to react differently than the one shown in the vdo.
Is it possible to remove a clutch and just have a pulley on the ac?
That’s a good question. I don’t know myself, but maybe somebody here knows.
You can remove just the AC clutch plate and leave the pulley on,
Tester
If you are referring to me, that’s true. I’ve never owned a car w/AC, and therefore never had to fix a broken AC. If DMP believes your best path is to replace the compressor clutch, I have no objection.
I like your blunt comments 
They get right to the point 
I found this interesting site. However the noise is there off or on.
If you’ve noticed your vehicle’s air conditioning system isn’t blasting out cool air, it could be due to a locked-up AC compressor clutch. In simple terms, when the AC compressor clutch is locked up, the compressor won’t turn, and cold air can’t be produced. There are several symptoms that can indicate a locked-up compressor clutch.
One of the most common symptoms is a clicking sound coming from the engine compartment when the AC is turned on.
According to your post, this has nothing to do with your AC clutch, your pulley does not turn freely of your clutch, meaning the ac clutch is frozen/seized to the compressor pulley making the ac clutch to the ac compressor to be engaged 100% of the time even with the key off/no power to it…
so in your case, in this situation, that interesting site has nothing to do with your ac system at this time…
Ok you’re right