When we had the original issue when the drive pin in the TNSS, broke off, we ran all the diagnostics, and the idiots running those test said “computer” and since those shops wanted over $7K to fix a $6K car, yes replacing it, would be the answer, but it was not the CPU, it was that the “Drive” pin in the TNSS broke off, so was total of $100 to fix, $45 for the switch and the balance in labor. That is why I know I have the right mechanic, because he actually diagnosis things instead of depending of electronic testers to do his work for him!
So no, it’s not the computer, its another problem with that compromised connector and now we have the part with different colored wires than the original, getting the right connections is critical.
But thanks for your thoughts!
I wrote about the dual voltages and that should explain all the caution!
On the connector I agree! I had a 2004 before and the alternator connector there crumbled and the area there was totally clean so it is KIA’s choice of plastics that is the root problem. Once I pay off the $2K still owed, I’ll get anything bu a KIA!
Why not go to a junkyard which has a similar vehicle, and either cut off and buy the used pigtail (to use as a template, not to actually install in your vehicle), or just take several pictured of it? Then you will know which wire color goes to which pin position on your specific model.
And as a side note, when connecting the new pigtail, NEVER use wire nuts with a steel spring inside. Either solder each wire and then insulate individually with shrink tubing or electrical tape (best), or use a suitable inline crimp connector (second best), or if you must use wire nuts, they should be the type which contain a copper spring, and each connection must be tight and secured with electrical tape. And of course, however you connect the wires, the entire bundle should be taped up, and a protective jacket should be installed.
Are certain types of wire nuts allowed these days to do car electrical system repair? diy’er - me would only do that job with the normal (for auto repair work) crimp connectors, soldering any which use high current.
Question for the pro’s here: How are “standard repair practices” handled w/diy’er car repairs? For example if a diy’er replaces their home’s water-heater, the diy usually would s be required to obtain a building permit (for water heater work) before doing the repair, and after the repair the city or county would send a building inspector to make sure it was done to correctly and sign off to finalize the permit. If the diy’er installed the water heater with no permit, any issue which developed causing damage even remotely associated with the water heater wouldn’t be covered by the homeowner’s insurance. And the city might well cite the diy’er with a big fine for not following the required permit process. Is there a similar thing for diy’er car repairs?
I installed my own water heater 12 years ago. The only issue anyone has is whether the gas connection was done properly. No one comes out to check. You are not required to have a license to do your own plumbing but can’t hire out.
Wiring diagrams with color codes should be in the dealer shop manual, if they still publish them on paper. Had similar problems on some of my 1980s cars and I was able to buy paper and digitized shop manuals on eBay. Dealers said shop manuals were confidential.
It’s been quite some time, probably back in the late 80s…I walked into a Chevy dealer and ordered every single OEM manual available for a 1969 Corvette. I couldn’t even carry all of them at once. Body mechanical, body electrical, engine specific info, diagnostic troubleshooting and repair, assembly info down to the specific bolt and nut. I have the entire set to this day.
If it had a GM part number, they would order it… I bought a lot of esoteric hardware and other parts from that dealership as well. I had all the part numbers
Reminds me of when I could have ordered the Ford shop manual directly from Ford for my truck for a whopping $7 fee when the truck was new. But I decided at the time, teenage me needed the $7 more than the manual. Turned out to be ot much of a problem, Chiltons & Haynes both produce good aftermarket manuals for vehicles of that era. I did need to see the detailed shop manual info 30 years ago i when I took apart the Ford 9 inch differential, but my local library had Motor manuals w/ that info.
I guess car dealerships – who earn income doing repairs and maintenance — might complain if the manufacturer reveals the detailed service data these days.
I never had trouble ordering shop manuals from helms for Buick or olds. But they were not cheap. Also managed to get an Acura manual. I don’t think Toyota or even Honda are easy to get manual from. You can do a search but usually they are the Haynes or similar and not factory. One of the best I ever had was a manual for my 68 dodge. Paid $10 about 1972. In the owners manual was an order form to use to buy it.
Car dealers are not public libraries, don’t ask to borrow their books. There was a separate agency that sold owner’s manuals and shop manuals, these were not sold through the service department.
Ten dollars would buy 28 gallons of gasoline in 1972, sounds like a lot for one book.
The connector crumbled, so absolutely no way to tell what wire goes where!
I’ve searched for a pin-out diagram, found none. I’ve figured out a way to pin it out and make a schematic of the switch, but the hard part will be properly testing and IDing the wires; so I know What wire connects to what pin!
