Motorcraft $13 1 year limited warranty
Autolite $10 3 year limited warranty
Autolite appears to have a more open area at the end.
Would that allow better combustion spread?
Motorcraft $13 1 year limited warranty
Let me ask you this? Have you removed the old spark plugs.? Because if you can’t remove the old plugs, the least of your worries is what plug to use. Here’s a video http://video.search.yahoo.com/video/play;_ylt=A2KLqIIEahNQbV8Aj177w8QF;_ylu=X3oDMTBvbHJtNTJvBHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDdmlkBHZ0aWQDVjEyOA--?p=ford+triton+engine+spark+plugs&vid=49BD1D43788A2BF654FB49BD1D43788A2BF654FB&l=00%3A14&turl=http%3A%2F%2Fts2.mm.bing.net%2Fvideos%2Fthumbnail.aspx%3Fq%3D4788472580341969%26id%3D82961918cb6dfccb528de4131647ec5c%26bid%3D%2b1T2K4p4Qx29SQ%26bn%3DLargeThumb%26url%3Dhttp%3a%2f%2fwww.youtube.com%2fwatch%3fv%3dk1ZWW6PbWQs&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3Dk1ZWW6PbWQs&tit=Ford+5.4+Triton+Spark+Plug+Removal&c=0&sigr=11a1i786d&
Like Tester said, changing plugs on these engines is NOT like changing the plugs on your lawn mower…The factory plugs (platinum) last 100K miles so I would stick to direct replacements assuming you can remove the old ones without snapping them off or stripping the threads, a problem somewhat unique to the 5.4L Ford V8…
I plan repeated applications of the solvent/lubricant over 24 hours and anticipate carefully removing all without breaking any. Still, I plan to have the extractor kit if needed. The autoparts store said I can return it if not used.
The 2008 Expedition, right? I think the standard autolite platinum plugs are closer to $4 each not $10…
Here’s a link to the Ford TSB that describes the R&R procedure for these plugs. I’m sure it’s available in other locations as well. Much has been written about removing these plugs.
Didn’t we discuss this before, Robert? This seems like one of those times when paying a dealer to do the work is the smart move.
If I knew ahead of time that the plugs would break, the following could work: Use an inexpensive variable power air operated impact wrench starting with very low power to break the plug threads loose. I have found that an impact wrench at a low power setting will tend to loosen a stuck thread where brute force will otherwise snap the bolt. When the plug thread is loosened, then add penetrating oil and gently work the plug thread back and forth in both directions.
Penetrating oil applied to a plug may be useless until the seal is broken.
If your 08 is new enough to have the brown coil boots it uses a differnt plug, sp509, than the problematic sp515 - ht15 plugs used with black coil boots.
The newer plug is a skinny 12mm thread plug that looks very much like the good ol’ plugs were used to and they come out easier.
either brand is good but look first at your coil boot color…'cuz it matters.
Even the production date can’t help unless it’s older than 10/09/07 or newer than 09/14/08.
In the tween dates it’s either / or , mine is the brown boot 12mm plugs.
"If your 08 is new enough to have the brown coil boots it uses a differnt plug, sp509, than the problematic sp515 - ht15 plugs used with black coil boots."Thank you. I'll go look. Hope that they are brown coils and all of this brain damage is for nothing. Thank you, Joe, for the PDF. What a mess. Ford engineers couldn't design their plugs to avoid this problem? Would tapering the ground electrode shield prevent this problem?
Think I will loosen one now at 75k and remove it and apply the anti-seize material.
If I can remove one-at-a-time, the vehicle can still remain in service for emergencies.
I don’t know anything about it but I thought the problem is carbon build up on the part of the plug extending into the combustion chamber and not necessarily the threads in the head. Therefore anti-seize wouldn’t do anything for this problem. I 'spose pulling the plugs out early might knock some of the carbon off so it wasn’t such a problem but like I said, I really don’t know anymore than what I have read. If you pull the plugs out one by one, might as well just put a new one in instead though.
You are correct.
The carbon build-up on the electrode ground shield may cause the tube to twist off and remain in the head.
So I want to get carbon solvent around the ground tube so that it comes free.
Also I’ll have to use a torsion wrench so that I do not exceed the force Ford recommends.
Then there is the issue about the aluminum head threads being stripped.
Anti-seize is applied to the ground tube for the next sparkplug-changing fiasco.
I hope you read @joemario link. If not, you should. Thanks, Joe great link, you provided to http://media2.wcpo.com/pdfs/FORD1st.PDF
Ya buy em books and they sill don’t learn, dag nab it! Stick with oem, mhop.
Stick with oem, mhop.Has Autolite improved on Ford's original sparkplug design? Perhaps making the electrode ground shield stronger? I have compared the two side-by-side. Autolite looks like it allows more spark exposure.
Here are two plug manufacturers who now make a one piece design of these plugs.
Champion P/N 7989
Autolite P/N HT-15
Robert, you said you have black coils, but the color to check is the coil BOOTS, So, you have to remove a coil, not the plug just the coil. Then look at the color of the rubber boot that connects the spark plug to the bottom of the coil (there is a spring inside the boot to conduct the electricity). Is the boot, brown or black?
BROWN BOOTS beneath the black coils!
I taped a surplus 16-inch section of 3/8 copper tubing to the vacuum hose and vacuumed grit from around the boot before pulling it.